Amp Goes into Protection Mode
#1
Amp Goes into Protection Mode
Well after 4-5 hours ripping apart my car to install a 10 inch Solabaric Woofer in a Zenclosure in my car it sounded great for a good 5 minutes before going into Safe Mode. Here is what happened and what I did for now to make it work.
I thought maybe the wires Ground and 12 Volt were touching so I went out and bought clips to make sure they dont touch. Put in a new fuse and nada still in protection mode. Turns out the main fuse blew (by the battery). Put some aluminum foil to bridge the connection to see if I get power. Great getting a lil over 12V at the Amp. Turned it on and still the amp is in protection mode. Thought to myself perhaps the AMP is bad, I had it for sometime and it may be shot.
Went to Best Buy purchased a new 1000 Watt Amp. Put everything in zip tied it all down and turned it on. At first I wasnt to happy with the sound, sounded weaker then the other Amp. SO I turned up the Bass Boost and Level output. I had the speaker wires Bridged so I can run 1000 Watts to that 1 speaker. Once I turned it up a lil bit it went into protection mode. Okay at this point I was ready to rip all the wires out of the car. Checked to make sure I had power and all was good. Wired it back to non Bridge Mode and she was bumping again. Turned my levels up and it sounds great. However I want to bridge them because the speaker should be able to handle more then 500 Watts.
I'm going to try bridging them again now that it has been working for a good day. However any ideas what this could be? I did realize that the AMP can not be touching the bare metal of the car so I modified it so it wasnt. Not sure what else it can be any help would be good help.
I thought maybe the wires Ground and 12 Volt were touching so I went out and bought clips to make sure they dont touch. Put in a new fuse and nada still in protection mode. Turns out the main fuse blew (by the battery). Put some aluminum foil to bridge the connection to see if I get power. Great getting a lil over 12V at the Amp. Turned it on and still the amp is in protection mode. Thought to myself perhaps the AMP is bad, I had it for sometime and it may be shot.
Went to Best Buy purchased a new 1000 Watt Amp. Put everything in zip tied it all down and turned it on. At first I wasnt to happy with the sound, sounded weaker then the other Amp. SO I turned up the Bass Boost and Level output. I had the speaker wires Bridged so I can run 1000 Watts to that 1 speaker. Once I turned it up a lil bit it went into protection mode. Okay at this point I was ready to rip all the wires out of the car. Checked to make sure I had power and all was good. Wired it back to non Bridge Mode and she was bumping again. Turned my levels up and it sounds great. However I want to bridge them because the speaker should be able to handle more then 500 Watts.
I'm going to try bridging them again now that it has been working for a good day. However any ideas what this could be? I did realize that the AMP can not be touching the bare metal of the car so I modified it so it wasnt. Not sure what else it can be any help would be good help.
#2
what ohms are the voice coils in the sub? And what make/model amps are you trying (both old and new)?
Also, the foil idea in the fuse holder is not a safe idea. I know you were using it to troubleshoot, but PLEASE be careful.....fuses blow to protect the car and the equipment.
Also, the foil idea in the fuse holder is not a safe idea. I know you were using it to troubleshoot, but PLEASE be careful.....fuses blow to protect the car and the equipment.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 06-25-2007 at 07:53 AM.
#3
Below are the Specs for the Sub. The Amp was something I picked up at Best Buy I believe it is a Power Acoustic 1000 Watt 2 Channel Amp. I did the Foil trick for the Fuse because I blew it when I was disconnecting everything the 12V touched ground and Poof there goes the fuse. I will go out and buy a new 1 I was just using it like that for troubleshooting. Do you think I was trying to send to much wattage to the sub itself?
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Kicker 02S10L74 Car Subwoofer: Product Features
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Titanium deposit cone ~ Non-resonant aluminum basket ~ Santoprene rubber surround ~ Dual 4-ohm voice coils ~ Frequency response 24-100 Hz ~ Power range 75-600 watts RMS(300W per coil) ~ Peak power handling 1,200 watts ~ Sensitivity 85.6 dB SPL ~ Top-mount depth 6-3/8" ~ Sealed box volume 0.66-1.0 cubic feet ~ Ported box volume 1.25-2.25 cubic feet
Product Details
Key Features
Car Speaker Type Component
Car Speaker Function Subwoofer
Size 10"
Nominal Power Handling 600 Watt RMS
Powered Non-Powered
Technical Features
Peak Power Handling 1200 Watt
Frequency Response 24 Hz - 100 Hz
Sensitivity 85.7 dB
Impedance 4 ohm (Dual Coil)
Components
Woofer Material Metal
Mounting
Enclosure Non-Enclosed
Top Mounting Depth 6.38 In.
Mounting Diameter / Length 9.50 In.
Warranty
Warranty 1 Year
Miscellaneous
MPN s10l74
BooksCarsClothingComputersElectronicsFlowers & GiftsHealth & Beauty
Home & GardenJewelryKids & FamilyMoviesMusicOfficeSportsVideo Games
Search for: in All Categories Books Cars Clothing & Accessories Computers & Software Electronics Flower & Gifts Health & Beauty Home & Garden Jewelry & Watches Kids and Family Movies Music Office Sports & Outdoors Video Games
Sponsored Listings
Subwoofer Enclosures
caraudiofactory.com/ - High quality custom boxes & more; Straight from the factory to you.
Kicker Component Speakers
www.hifisoundconnection.com - Kicker authorized dealer selling Kicker Component Speakers
$123.99 Shipped ZX250.2
www.CartronixPlus.com - Free Shipping & Brand New This Kicker Amp In stock Now
Kicker Car Speakers
www.best-price.com/Electronics - You search for car electronics? We got it - up to 75% cheaper!
1/2 Off - Car Subwoofers
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Back to: Electronics > Car Audio and Electronics > Car Speakers and Subwoofers > Kicker 02S10L74 Car Subwoofer
Kicker 02S10L74 Car Subwoofer: Product Features
Read 1 review | Write a review at Epinions.com
Titanium deposit cone ~ Non-resonant aluminum basket ~ Santoprene rubber surround ~ Dual 4-ohm voice coils ~ Frequency response 24-100 Hz ~ Power range 75-600 watts RMS(300W per coil) ~ Peak power handling 1,200 watts ~ Sensitivity 85.6 dB SPL ~ Top-mount depth 6-3/8" ~ Sealed box volume 0.66-1.0 cubic feet ~ Ported box volume 1.25-2.25 cubic feet
Product Details
Key Features
Car Speaker Type Component
Car Speaker Function Subwoofer
Size 10"
Nominal Power Handling 600 Watt RMS
Powered Non-Powered
Technical Features
Peak Power Handling 1200 Watt
Frequency Response 24 Hz - 100 Hz
Sensitivity 85.7 dB
Impedance 4 ohm (Dual Coil)
Components
Woofer Material Metal
Mounting
Enclosure Non-Enclosed
Top Mounting Depth 6.38 In.
Mounting Diameter / Length 9.50 In.
Warranty
Warranty 1 Year
Miscellaneous
MPN s10l74
#4
I did realize that the AMP can not be touching the bare metal of the car so I modified it so it wasnt. Not sure what else it can be any help would be good help.
#5
Originally Posted by RedBullRR
Well after 4-5 hours ripping apart my car to install a 10 inch Solabaric Woofer in a Zenclosure in my car it sounded great for a good 5 minutes before going into Safe Mode. Here is what happened and what I did for now to make it work.
I thought maybe the wires Ground and 12 Volt were touching so I went out and bought clips to make sure they dont touch. Put in a new fuse and nada still in protection mode. Turns out the main fuse blew (by the battery). Put some aluminum foil to bridge the connection to see if I get power. Great getting a lil over 12V at the Amp. Turned it on and still the amp is in protection mode. Thought to myself perhaps the AMP is bad, I had it for sometime and it may be shot.
Went to Best Buy purchased a new 1000 Watt Amp. Put everything in zip tied it all down and turned it on. At first I wasnt to happy with the sound, sounded weaker then the other Amp. SO I turned up the Bass Boost and Level output. I had the speaker wires Bridged so I can run 1000 Watts to that 1 speaker. Once I turned it up a lil bit it went into protection mode. Okay at this point I was ready to rip all the wires out of the car. Checked to make sure I had power and all was good. Wired it back to non Bridge Mode and she was bumping again. Turned my levels up and it sounds great. However I want to bridge them because the speaker should be able to handle more then 500 Watts.
I'm going to try bridging them again now that it has been working for a good day. However any ideas what this could be? I did realize that the AMP can not be touching the bare metal of the car so I modified it so it wasnt. Not sure what else it can be any help would be good help.
I thought maybe the wires Ground and 12 Volt were touching so I went out and bought clips to make sure they dont touch. Put in a new fuse and nada still in protection mode. Turns out the main fuse blew (by the battery). Put some aluminum foil to bridge the connection to see if I get power. Great getting a lil over 12V at the Amp. Turned it on and still the amp is in protection mode. Thought to myself perhaps the AMP is bad, I had it for sometime and it may be shot.
Went to Best Buy purchased a new 1000 Watt Amp. Put everything in zip tied it all down and turned it on. At first I wasnt to happy with the sound, sounded weaker then the other Amp. SO I turned up the Bass Boost and Level output. I had the speaker wires Bridged so I can run 1000 Watts to that 1 speaker. Once I turned it up a lil bit it went into protection mode. Okay at this point I was ready to rip all the wires out of the car. Checked to make sure I had power and all was good. Wired it back to non Bridge Mode and she was bumping again. Turned my levels up and it sounds great. However I want to bridge them because the speaker should be able to handle more then 500 Watts.
I'm going to try bridging them again now that it has been working for a good day. However any ideas what this could be? I did realize that the AMP can not be touching the bare metal of the car so I modified it so it wasnt. Not sure what else it can be any help would be good help.
when my amp went into protection.. here is what i did..
1) disconnected speaker wires
2) disconnect RCA's
3) fired up amp
....
amp was no longer in protection..
turned the car off
.....
plugged in RCA's and fired up car...
amp was no longer in protection
turned car off
......
plugged in speaker wires...
amp goes into protection
check noticed that the speaker wires on the left side of the sub were disconnected and touching..
if you disconnect everything and only the speaker wires are putting it into protection.. it could also be the connection inside the box..
if you are going into protection without RCA's and speaker wires..
i would get 3 wires ((2) positive (1) ground) .. connect the 1 positive to positive input and the other positive to the remote turn on.. then twine them at the ends.. then connect the ground.. then have somone hold the amp while you make the connection at the battery.. .if the amp is still in protection.. something is wrong with the amp.. if not.. then something is wrong with your wire connections to the amp.. either your remote wire is bad.. maybe its sheered and touching metal of the chassi or even your power wire.. or maybe your ground
#7
Currently the AMP is not in protection mode and is working fine however it is running on 1 channel and not being bridged. I am going to try bridging the wires again and turning the Bass Level lower then what it is now to see if it will go into protection mode. I have so far tried everything you guys have suggested. As I stated it is working however not to its fullest capabilities.
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#8
Originally Posted by RedBullRR
Currently the AMP is not in protection mode and is working fine however it is running on 1 channel and not being bridged. I am going to try bridging the wires again and turning the Bass Level lower then what it is now to see if it will go into protection mode. I have so far tried everything you guys have suggested. As I stated it is working however not to its fullest capabilities.
#10
Originally Posted by doug
is it 1 sub? or 2 subs? if its going into protection in bridge mode.. the wiring isn't right.. and the amp is probably dropping into .5 ohm and causing it.. are you sure the amp is 1 ohm stable?
#11
Originally Posted by doug
is it 1 sub? or 2 subs? if its going into protection in bridge mode.. the wiring isn't right.. and the amp is probably dropping into .5 ohm and causing it.. are you sure the amp is 1 ohm stable?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Power...QQcmdZViewItem
Above is a Link to the AMP I bought. Except I bought it new from BestBuy Anyhow it states its 2OHM Stable.
Last edited by RedBullRR; 06-25-2007 at 09:48 AM.
#12
Originally Posted by Ichigo
Use this to check how you have the sub wired:
OR
OR
How should it be wired (Speaker Side) if I want to bridge my AMP?
#13
Originally Posted by RedBullRR
As much as I would like for this to make sense to me it isnt. I guess I would have to take the speaker out of the Box to check how it is wired inside. Could it be that the speaker is wired that I cant bridge it, and causing the amp to go into protection mode? If so... Should I take the speaker out and wire it so I can bridge it? I'm sorry I never wired just 1 sub. I usually install my own system never really ran into this kind of problem.
How should it be wired (Speaker Side) if I want to bridge my AMP?
How should it be wired (Speaker Side) if I want to bridge my AMP?
According to the specs you gave above, your sub is a dual 4 ohm coil, so you can wire it to yield either a 2 ohm load or a 8 ohm load. It's really dependant on what the amp is stable to though.
#14
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Well, you need to find out what your amp is stable to bridged.....4 ohms? 2 ohms?
According to the specs you gave above, your sub is a dual 4 ohm coil, so you can wire it to yield either a 2 ohm load or a 8 ohm load. It's really dependant on what the amp is stable to though.
According to the specs you gave above, your sub is a dual 4 ohm coil, so you can wire it to yield either a 2 ohm load or a 8 ohm load. It's really dependant on what the amp is stable to though.
#15
Ok so your amp is 2 ohm stable. Wire your sub like the top diagram turn down the gain and turn off that bass boost and you should be OK.
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
#16
Originally Posted by Ichigo
Ok so your amp is 2 ohm stable. Wire your sub like the top diagram turn down the gain and turn off that bass boost and you should be OK.
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
#17
Originally Posted by Ichigo
Ok so your amp is 2 ohm stable. Wire your sub like the top diagram turn down the gain and turn off that bass boost and you should be OK.
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
#18
Originally Posted by Ichigo
Ok so your amp is 2 ohm stable. Wire your sub like the top diagram turn down the gain and turn off that bass boost and you should be OK.
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
It might currently be wired inside to show an 8ohm load, which causes the amp to make a fraction of its rated power, so in turn you jack the gain and bass boost up to compensate hence the amp goes into protection mode
Only problem I'm having now is it sounds like my left side speakers are shot out of no were. Since doing the install I cant here sound coming from the Left. I tried putting back the Bose Sub to see if that is what effected the balance but nothing.
Any ideas?
#20
Thats good news, glad it works now.
You provided details on the sub and sub-amp in your setup, post some details about the rest of the system like what headunit are you using what front and rear speakers, any other amps added to the system... that will help us figure it out.
You provided details on the sub and sub-amp in your setup, post some details about the rest of the system like what headunit are you using what front and rear speakers, any other amps added to the system... that will help us figure it out.