Any thoughts??? I'm desperate!

 

Take your radio out and check your wires. I know this is a crazy suggestion.

 

How about a hint?














Is it cranking but not starting?

Does it try to start and die?

Do you have power to anything else?

 

ditto on those questions...

and who did the install? was it a shop? did you use a adapter wiringharness?

it would take a major foul up to make the car not start after a headunit install...

b

 

Check your fuses.

 

Not meaning to sound sarcastic,,,but if you disconnected the battery,,,did you remember to reconnect?

 

That's why I asked him if he's getting power to anything else
He's desperate but it's been almost a day with no response. I'd guess he figured it out and it was something really simple like the battery.

 

Sorry for the late response guys. Not a good way to start on the forums...
Alright so the Crazy thing was, it didn't start because the AC controls weren't connected... The car and head unit is working now but i have no sounds.. double checked all the wiring and grounds... still no luck, i guess its going to the shop tomorrow.
Btw, will most audio shops not mind completing/fixing the installation...or will most refuse to work on it because it's been "tampered" with already? And also, approximately how much should the labor cost?

Side note: Me and my bro did the install, I have the Bose system and also the PAC OEM-1 adapter and PAC wiring harness. I ordered from Sonic Electronix and for some reason or another they seem to be partial to PAC. Maybe i should buy a Metra harness?

Thanks again for the responses guys.

 

Some places will refuse to even look at it if you didn't buy they stuff through them. It all depends on the shop.

Your install is a little more complex since you're having to interface with the Bose system via the adapter. Since it's working but no sound, that's probably the source of your problem (adapter).

 

You need to go to a “high-end” installer (or at least someone who knows what they are doing past just simple installations) to get this fixed. It’s probably something simple, but tracking it down may be a little complicated. It’s always easier doing a new install vs. fixing a botched job.

Better installers in my area charge at least $50/hr. The installer will likely suggest pulling everything you did and then reinstalling the stuff (that means you may end up paying like double). The installer may also prefer a different harness and other stuff you have already purchased and installed. This could be expensive. I think if your brother is willing to help some more, this weekend might be well spent trying to get this working.

It’s surprising how many problems people report when mating new components with an OEM Bose system. It makes you think Bose is just too proprietary and that you never should select a Bose upgrade when purchasing a new car.

--Spike

 

well, on the no sound part, quick quesion:

1. did you connect the remote turn on wire from the z2 (blue/white stripe) to the corresponding wires ont he adapter harness? oyu need to do this in order for the bose amp to turn on

2. did you connect the wire called AMP GROUND from the adapter harness to ground?

b

 

Thanks guys, you guys are really helpful.
16psi, My brother might have over looked those steps. We will continue on this project tomorrow when he's free. Is there any chance your going to be doing a roadtrip to LA within this week.. I will gladly pay for your service

 

hehe, i wish i have the time to make it down there...

butif you still canot figure it out and no shop wants to do it, and you dont mind a drive to santa barbara, i have a freind who is a good installer and wont mind looking at it for you.

but deifnetly check those two wires and let us know how it went

b

 

Things are looking good guys... My brother just texted me saying that the sounds are on now! (after i told him about the remote turn on wire you mentioned). Thank you so very much! Now we just need to connect the GPS antenna, Mic, Bluetooth adapter, Steering wheel and IPOD controls...
These are preety standard plug and play stuff right? Some mentenioned that the GPS ant. could be mounted right under the dash beneath the guages, correct?

Thanks again fellas... I can't wait till it's all done!

 

the gps atenna can see through everything but metal, so you can mount it where the onlything blocking it is plastic i tend ot mount on the top of the dash beucase i thinkt he guages may have osmeting metal and every little bit counts, but i think the under the guage panel part will work too

b

 

This is only confirmation on what Bing has said…
As Bing suggests, you want to position your GPS antenna where the car’s sheet metal won’t be between the antenna and the signal. The best positions are on top of the dash or on top of or inside the rear strut bar. For your installation, on top of the dashboard is best and easiest. Installing the GPS on the rear strut bar is more work than you need when installing a double-din device (unnecessary wiring run). The reason you want to install the antenna on top of the dashboard is simply because you can position the antenna more forward (thus clearing the metal roof) than if you install the antenna inside the dash under the gauges.

--Spike

 

Alright everything is running great so far (Love the unit!). We tested the GPS antenna beneath the guages and to my relief, it recieves at least 80% of the signal at all times. So glad too, I've always hated the exposed Antenna look.

On a side note; i now have a check engine light, has anyone experienced this? I honestly haven't checked too much into this yet, but if anyone can give me a brief solution it would be gladly appreciated.

 

The CEL will trip when you work on the radio without the negative lead to the battery disconnected. I believe it has something to do with having the climate control unplugged.

Anyway, unhook the negative lead and let it sit overnight. It will clear the CEL.

 

I will do that. Thank you Cat!

 

Sure thing, bro.