Speaker wires from glove box to rear hatch area
#1
Speaker wires from glove box to rear hatch area
Is it possible to route speaker wires from an amplifier in the glove box to the rear hatch area without removing any of the interior panels? I really am hoping to get away with only removing door panels in order to apply sound dampening material and the dash for the head unit during the install of the whole system. The wires cannot be visible. Here's the sub box...
Thanks
Thanks
#3
You can run it through the center console then through the cubby behind the driver's seat then under the carpet into the back. The only thing you have to "remove" is lifting the center console and the cover of the cubby.
#4
If I remember correctly,,,there are several "pass through holes" from inside the glove box going into the rear hatch area. Its been over a year since I installed my system,,,Now, I did have my whole rear area taken apart,,,so not sure how easily accessible the openings are without taking things apart. Sorry I cannot be of more help.
#6
Remove the carpeting from the hatch and you shall see a plethora of holes. You should be able to figure out where you can route easily once the carpet is removed. Pick one and shove the wire through (using grommets of course).
#7
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Remove the carpeting from the hatch and you shall see a plethora of holes. You should be able to figure out where you can route easily once the carpet is removed. Pick one and shove the wire through (using grommets of course).
+1,,,,,make sure you use the grommets mentioned above. For, you do not want any of your speaker wires to shred, touch bare metal and cause a short...
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#8
You'll have to remove your glove box to get access to the holes, but as mentioned, there are several. There are round ones above the glove box and one large'ish square hole in the rear of the compartment. This one worked best for me because it offered a straight shot to the hatch area. Using a fish tape, etc, you can get the wires to come out right next to where the strut bar mounts - either toward the back or side.
#9
Don't remove the glove box (the one with the door), open the unused subby on the other side (behind the drivers seat). The cover pops off and you have full access to all the holes and metal framing from there.
#10
I have my amps in the "glove box" and the wires are hidden
There is a false floor in the cubby that can be removed and the wires can be ran through it. From there I took the rear quarter panel off and ran wires through that.
There is a false floor in the cubby that can be removed and the wires can be ran through it. From there I took the rear quarter panel off and ran wires through that.
#11
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
Don't remove the glove box (the one with the door), open the unused subby on the other side (behind the drivers seat). The cover pops off and you have full access to all the holes and metal framing from there.
And vice versa for going from the center console into the drivers side cubby hole?
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-02-2007 at 11:53 AM.
#12
Originally Posted by Ge|atinousFury
So there's a hole or something in the glove box that I can route the cables into the center console through?
And vice versa for going from the center console into the drivers side cubby hole?
And vice versa for going from the center console into the drivers side cubby hole?
I think that's all cleared up but I have one question regarding getting a 2 gauge power wire from the battery to the glove box. I believe getting it from the battery to the door sills will be no problem, but how do I get to the glove box from the door sills without being seen?
Will I have to remove this panel (the one in yellow) and hope that there's a hole or something in it that goes to the glove box?
Also, does the black glove box liner come out easily?
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-13-2007 at 11:10 AM.
#13
Originally Posted by Ge|atinousFury
Will I have to remove this panel (the one in yellow) and hope that there's a hole or something in it that goes to the glove box?
Also, does the black glove box liner come out easily?
#14
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Yes and Yes, Once all the plastic trim is removed it will all make complete sense to you. I know it's hard to visualize before taking it all apart, but rest assured you will not run into any surprises.
#15
Actually, all you have to do is remove the panel "Floor Finisher Mask". The end of the console is accessable from the opening as well as the rear floor area.
I recently put my XM radio tuner back there. I popped the console up a few inches so I could snake the cable from the HU past the shifter then past the seats and into the empty cubby space behind the driver. I mounted both pieces (tuner and adapter) against the back wall of the empty cubby space then ran the XP antenna wire through a hole in the strut brace cover. I mounted the antenna to the top of the strut brace and did it all without removing one piece of plastic besides the "Floor Finisher Mask".
I recently put my XM radio tuner back there. I popped the console up a few inches so I could snake the cable from the HU past the shifter then past the seats and into the empty cubby space behind the driver. I mounted both pieces (tuner and adapter) against the back wall of the empty cubby space then ran the XP antenna wire through a hole in the strut brace cover. I mounted the antenna to the top of the strut brace and did it all without removing one piece of plastic besides the "Floor Finisher Mask".
#16
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
Actually, all you have to do is remove the panel "Floor Finisher Mask". The end of the console is accessable from the opening as well as the rear floor area.
I recently put my XM radio tuner back there. I popped the console up a few inches so I could snake the cable from the HU past the shifter then past the seats and into the empty cubby space behind the driver. I mounted both pieces (tuner and adapter) against the back wall of the empty cubby space then ran the XP antenna wire through a hole in the strut brace cover. I mounted the antenna to the top of the strut brace and did it all without removing one piece of plastic besides the "Floor Finisher Mask".
I recently put my XM radio tuner back there. I popped the console up a few inches so I could snake the cable from the HU past the shifter then past the seats and into the empty cubby space behind the driver. I mounted both pieces (tuner and adapter) against the back wall of the empty cubby space then ran the XP antenna wire through a hole in the strut brace cover. I mounted the antenna to the top of the strut brace and did it all without removing one piece of plastic besides the "Floor Finisher Mask".
#18
I pulled the hatch carpet back and used a large drill bit to drill a hole in the metal behind the driver's side cubby. I then put a tapered grinding stone on my drill to make it wider and less jagged. I bought some grommets from Home Depot and shoved one in there to keep the wires from getting severed by the sharp metal edges of the hole. It worked perfect. I can take a pick at you request. Send me a PM if you want a pic....
#20
Originally Posted by phat04350z
what did you wind up doing?
Sorry to bring this back to life... I am doing the same this weekend and looking into the how to's
Sorry to bring this back to life... I am doing the same this weekend and looking into the how to's
1st pic is the wire entering the hole in the hatch. 2nd pic is where the wire comes out in the glove box.
A picture says a thousand words