? on front stage speakers
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? on front stage speakers
I know lots of people are talking about 2 way front components, but can anyone tell me the differences between using a 3 and 2 way components?
Thx,
Zac
Thx,
Zac
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The difference is another 2 driver jk
Seriously though, there really isn't too much difference for the average and even slightly above average listener.
2-way -
a mid woofer to handle duties from around 80Hz up to around 2.5kHz.
From 2.5kHz on up is all tweeter.
That is a big range to cover for a mid woofer. Most 6.5" mid woofers these days are very capable of handling this task very well though.
3-way -
a mid woofer to handle duties from around 80Hz up to around 800Hz.
a mid range to handle duties from around 800Hz up to around 5kHz.
From 5kHz on up is all tweeter.
There is a little more dynamic tolerance by using drivers a little more suited for the freq ranges they are asked to cover.
A very well designed and tuned 2-way setup can out perform a moderately designed and tuned 3-way setup. There really is no distinct advantage to one or the other, really just about how much money you want to spend, how much install room you have to install drivers, how much tuning of xover frequencies you want to do (if running active).
***Please note - the frequencies I used above are for illustration purposes only and NOT exact crossover points for any system in particular**
Seriously though, there really isn't too much difference for the average and even slightly above average listener.
2-way -
a mid woofer to handle duties from around 80Hz up to around 2.5kHz.
From 2.5kHz on up is all tweeter.
That is a big range to cover for a mid woofer. Most 6.5" mid woofers these days are very capable of handling this task very well though.
3-way -
a mid woofer to handle duties from around 80Hz up to around 800Hz.
a mid range to handle duties from around 800Hz up to around 5kHz.
From 5kHz on up is all tweeter.
There is a little more dynamic tolerance by using drivers a little more suited for the freq ranges they are asked to cover.
A very well designed and tuned 2-way setup can out perform a moderately designed and tuned 3-way setup. There really is no distinct advantage to one or the other, really just about how much money you want to spend, how much install room you have to install drivers, how much tuning of xover frequencies you want to do (if running active).
***Please note - the frequencies I used above are for illustration purposes only and NOT exact crossover points for any system in particular**
Last edited by StreetOC192; 01-11-2008 at 08:39 AM.
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pretty much accurante, though depending on the spaker, those freq can vary qiute a bit, and if you go active, you can further change those things..
but i the end, the key advantage of 3 ways is:
1. better midrange due to a dedicated and better suited midrange drier
2. better midbass efficiency since the midbass no longer have to play midrange
3. slightly better overall output as again, efficiency of the entire system is improved due to an extra driver handling the middle freq...
doe they always sound better? well, in s perfect world, perhaps, but its not always the case, a lot has to do with tuniung, and the interior shape of the car, whcih may or may not help with the sound...for example, in the Z, i favor the two way in kicks as the best overall sound quality for the effort...a 3 way set, done properly, would require a lot more work, to match or better the sq of the two way in kicks...for example, with a door pod for the midbass and kick mounted mid and tweet, you loose a little midbass output, and the center image isnt quite as solid...
but i the end, the key advantage of 3 ways is:
1. better midrange due to a dedicated and better suited midrange drier
2. better midbass efficiency since the midbass no longer have to play midrange
3. slightly better overall output as again, efficiency of the entire system is improved due to an extra driver handling the middle freq...
doe they always sound better? well, in s perfect world, perhaps, but its not always the case, a lot has to do with tuniung, and the interior shape of the car, whcih may or may not help with the sound...for example, in the Z, i favor the two way in kicks as the best overall sound quality for the effort...a 3 way set, done properly, would require a lot more work, to match or better the sq of the two way in kicks...for example, with a door pod for the midbass and kick mounted mid and tweet, you loose a little midbass output, and the center image isnt quite as solid...
#6
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Thanks for the explanation guys. I see so by getting a good two way setup and some time spent tuning I should have a good sounding front stage.
The only other question I have that I never really encountered is this term of "active" Could someone please explain that? If I'm right about it, it costs alot more to be active because of the components.
The only other question I have that I never really encountered is this term of "active" Could someone please explain that? If I'm right about it, it costs alot more to be active because of the components.
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Originally Posted by Zacreth
Thanks for the explanation guys. I see so by getting a good two way setup and some time spent tuning I should have a good sounding front stage.
The only other question I have that I never really encountered is this term of "active" Could someone please explain that? If I'm right about it, it costs alot more to be active because of the components.
The only other question I have that I never really encountered is this term of "active" Could someone please explain that? If I'm right about it, it costs alot more to be active because of the components.
signal path from headunit > Amp > passive crossover (fixed xover points) > Speakers
Active:
signal path from headunit > Active crossover (adjustable xover points) > Amps (1 channel for each tweeter, 1 channel for each mid) > Speakers
The extra cost comes in with the purchase of a crossover and an additional 2 channels of amplification. But you can usually come in SLIGHTLY more than if you bought a 2 channel amp and a boxed component set with passive crossovers. I am currently in the process of planning out my active front stage upgrade. I am looking at spending an additional $400, but my components were $150, so I am netting an increased cost of only $250 if I had gone active from the beginning.
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Originally Posted by Zacreth
Thanks Street for all the info.
Is there a noticable difference in SQ from passive to active?
Is there a noticable difference in SQ from passive to active?
If you are talking from a tuning perspective, then Active setups provide the most control and tweakability in a system.
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