What to do...
So then, I have an 03' Track, anyway...my stock tweeters are shot to hell, one of my front speakers sounds like it is losing it, and my rear speakers have been replaced by a "so-so" pioneer set. Anyway, my question is, what setup to replace the stock components would give the best sound when mated with my Alpine IVA-W200. Basically I just want it to sound clear, and I would prefer to use stock locations if possible.
Using stock locations powered off the headunit?
Look for a set of coaxials that sound nice to your ear. Don't spend money on anything more unless you plan to AT LEAST use an amp, if not improve the front stage locations.
Here's a coaxial with a pretty neutral timbre and nicely priced.:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=634
Look for a set of coaxials that sound nice to your ear. Don't spend money on anything more unless you plan to AT LEAST use an amp, if not improve the front stage locations.
Here's a coaxial with a pretty neutral timbre and nicely priced.:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=634
If you are going to amplify, then that opens up a whole new world of options. I would get a component set. It is best for you to listen to as many set as you can to get an idea of the sound YOU like. From there you can get an amp to match the components for power.
Any reason in particular you want to keep the stock locations?
Any reason in particular you want to keep the stock locations?
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
If you are going to amplify, then that opens up a whole new world of options. I would get a component set. It is best for you to listen to as many set as you can to get an idea of the sound YOU like. From there you can get an amp to match the components for power.
Any reason in particular you want to keep the stock locations?
Any reason in particular you want to keep the stock locations?
To each their own, I can understand your hesitance.
However those little fiberglass things (pods or kicks) help stage the speakers so you achieve better dynamics. the stock woofer locations are too constricted (unless you to one of the DIY speaker grill mods), and they are way too far off axis.
If you still want to keep everything in the stock locations, you will most likely still need spacers for the woofers. You can make them or buy them.
However those little fiberglass things (pods or kicks) help stage the speakers so you achieve better dynamics. the stock woofer locations are too constricted (unless you to one of the DIY speaker grill mods), and they are way too far off axis.
If you still want to keep everything in the stock locations, you will most likely still need spacers for the woofers. You can make them or buy them.
Hi DelayedZ,
I read your thread an would like to offer some suggestions based upon my personal experience.
First of all, everything StreetOC192 says is right on. I mention this because his answers to your questions and comments seem to fit exactly what you want to do. I’m guessing a little, but I think you want to add a reasonably priced front stage speaker setup to your existing H/U.
You have already replaced the rear speakers. That is a good move since the cheap OEM Clarions (I’m assuming you do not have the Bose “upgrade”) do nothing other than contaminating the sound. The ["so-so" pioneer set] you installed to replace the OEM rears is about a thousand times better. With this said, you don’t need rears in the Z’s small compartment unless that is your personal listening preference (but, that’s an entirely different discussion).
What you do need is at least a moderately-performing external amp (and this doesn’t need to be terribly expensive). You need the external amp so that you can drive a decent two-way component speaker you install in the front.
You can install the front component speaker in the stock door position (I did this, installing Focals) where you put the midrange in the door and the tweeter in the Sail Panel, A-Pillar, or a custom housing. The door position won’t provide as good sound as you get with door pods or kicks, but the stock position has cost and convenience advantages (preserving the dead pedal foot rest, avoiding hitting door pods with your foot when existing the car, etc.)
Installing quality speakers in the stock front door position usually requires spacers (to properly position the midrange) and always sound-deadening material (to focus the sound; and eliminate vibrations, hollow sound, and potential “buzzing”).
Positioning the tweeters is the biggest challenge. The Sail Panel (stock position for OEM tweeters) is small and its position and direction is not great for front sound staging. Mounting the tweeters in the A-Pillar is an option, but that might require bouncing off the front windshield for front staging. That’s possible, but a little tricky. Another option is building tweeter-housing (see Bing’s recent thread on how to best do this).
--Spike
I read your thread an would like to offer some suggestions based upon my personal experience.
First of all, everything StreetOC192 says is right on. I mention this because his answers to your questions and comments seem to fit exactly what you want to do. I’m guessing a little, but I think you want to add a reasonably priced front stage speaker setup to your existing H/U.
You have already replaced the rear speakers. That is a good move since the cheap OEM Clarions (I’m assuming you do not have the Bose “upgrade”) do nothing other than contaminating the sound. The ["so-so" pioneer set] you installed to replace the OEM rears is about a thousand times better. With this said, you don’t need rears in the Z’s small compartment unless that is your personal listening preference (but, that’s an entirely different discussion).
What you do need is at least a moderately-performing external amp (and this doesn’t need to be terribly expensive). You need the external amp so that you can drive a decent two-way component speaker you install in the front.
You can install the front component speaker in the stock door position (I did this, installing Focals) where you put the midrange in the door and the tweeter in the Sail Panel, A-Pillar, or a custom housing. The door position won’t provide as good sound as you get with door pods or kicks, but the stock position has cost and convenience advantages (preserving the dead pedal foot rest, avoiding hitting door pods with your foot when existing the car, etc.)
Installing quality speakers in the stock front door position usually requires spacers (to properly position the midrange) and always sound-deadening material (to focus the sound; and eliminate vibrations, hollow sound, and potential “buzzing”).
Positioning the tweeters is the biggest challenge. The Sail Panel (stock position for OEM tweeters) is small and its position and direction is not great for front sound staging. Mounting the tweeters in the A-Pillar is an option, but that might require bouncing off the front windshield for front staging. That’s possible, but a little tricky. Another option is building tweeter-housing (see Bing’s recent thread on how to best do this).
--Spike
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