So I got my D3 installed and got the SWIPS unit all wired in but I'm having problems programming it. I've followed the instructions on how to program it, but it will only accept the first button.

I turn the key on and the light flashes 3 times for version 3. I push the mode button to program - light comes on. I push and hold the volume up button - light turns off. I release the vol button and light comes back on (1st button complete). Now when i push and hold the 2nd button (volume down) the light stays on and after about 5 seconds it flashes 3 times saying the programming is complete. I have tried this several times with the same result. I have even tried other buttons. Am I missing a step? The first programmed button works perfect but it will not accept more than 1 button.
Please help!

Thanks
Tyson

 

It doesn't look like you are missing a step. The only thing I can think of is try pressing a different button besides the volume down for the second programming step. For example try pressing the the Track up or Track down button instead. If it works then it may be the button on the steering wheel. But if it works on your factory deck than that is not the likely the problem. It may be the interface itself. I have had the Swi-ps interfaces just be bad out of the box before. It happened to me twice, but they were both on Grand prixs and the volume up button would not program properly.

Long story short. Try programming the buttons on the steering wheel for different controlling functions such as mute. This may let you know that it is the it is just the interface then. I hope this makes sense. If you have any questions just let me know. It sounds like you know what you are doing though.

Here is a link to the instructions on peripherals website:

http://www.peripheralelectronics.com/peswix.aspx

I just ordered the Swi-ps it should be here later this week so I can finally put my Z2 in. Hopefully I don't run into any similar problems.

 

i would be more willing to bet there is a wiring problem when its installed, loose or dampanged wires, resistors or the wrong wire...

other than that, its a bad swi-ps

basically, hwat is happening is, when you go to the second button, no signal is going to the SWI, so it waits and waits for 5 seconds, and then gets out ofprograming mode by default. why its not seeing the signal, is most likely a wiring issue.

b

 

Hey thanks for the input xx2ndgenxx. I did try different buttons but had no luck. I even tried using the Vol down for the first button and it did work, so I know the button itself is good. It wouldn't accept anything for the 2nd.

I had to go to an audio shop so I asked the guy about it while I was there. He said they've had defective interfaces before. I'm going to try another interface first to at least rule that out.

 

I double checked the wiring and resistors last night and they are all hooked up correctly. I will check again after work just to be safe.

 

No problem.

It could be the resistor, maybe. Did you use a multimeter to see what the true resistance was on the resistor you used?
If you solve the problem let us know. I would like to know in case I run into a similar problem some day. Good luck with it.

 

Turns out the tap-in connector was too big for the wire. It wasn't piercing one of the wires insulation. I got that fixed and everything is working great! Thanks for all your help.

Good luck with the install xx2ndgenxx

 

hehe i knew it was a wiring issue...i dont trust T taps, ever, i never use one lol... i use the good ole method of stripping a portion of wire that needs to be tapped, wrap a stripped portion of the new wire raound it, eletrical tape and then wiretie over it

 

Amen

 

Guys - I am putting in the AVIC D3 on a non-Bose 06 Z. Having trouble determining how to attach the resistors to the white wire from the SWIPS harness.

I know the black goes to ground and the red gets spliced with the other harness...but the white wire connects to the brown harness coming from the dash? I read about what resistors go in to what pin slots, but it doesn't seem like they attach too well. Did you just cut the brown harness of and solder the resistors straight to the wire? That doesn't seem too "clean". How are you supposed to attached the resistors? Thanks!

 

@PSUPride,

I didn't cut off any connectors because I wanted the ability to return the car to stock without *too* much trouble. So, here's what I did in regards to the resistors:

Anywhere a resistor was called for:

1) I cut to short (~ 2") "jumpers" of wire.
2) Stripped back a half-inch or so of insulation from each end.
3) Soldered these jumpers, one, onto each lead of the resistor.
4) Wrapped the whole affair in heat shrink tubing.

So what I would end up with was basically a short, 4" - 5", "assembly" that consisted of the resistor with a jumper wire soldered to each end and insulated with the heat shrink tubing.

At that point, I could solder one end to the appropriate wire in the SWI-PS harness. The other end (the brown connector in the car), I would strip a small section (about 1/2") on the correct wire in the harness, wrap the wire from the resistor "jumper" around the stripped portion of the harness wire and solder it. Insulate.

This way, when I put the car back to stock I can strip the insulation from this connection, either de-solder the wire or just clip it really close and then wrap the bare wire in electrical tape or similar to re-insulate it.

I hope that makes sense. I was in for the fail when I did my installation as I didn't take any pictures of this, but I wasn't planning on doing a "how-to" then. lol

Good Luck,
Clark

 

It does make sense. I like the idea of attaching the small wire to the resistor and then connecting it behind the brown harness (no cutting involved)

I think rather than stripping the wire from the brown harness, I might just use one of those wire tap things (here) that I used for the bypass.

That way I don't have to strip the wire or anything. Think that'll work?

Oh yea, I thought about adding more pictures to this install for idiots like me, but I thought it might end up being a tutorial on how NOT to install this D3

 

Yeah you can definitely use a "t-tap" to connect to the wires in the brown harness. It should work fine. I use the strip/solder method simply because that's what works for me and pretty much ensures that there aren't any reliablity issues down the road. But as long as you use correctly sized wire taps, you shouldn't have any problem doing it that way, either.

 

Good news and bad news:
Good news - e-brake bypass works
Bad news - can't get the SWIPS to work. I can't get it to recognize the different volume and seek buttons from my steering wheel. I am here

Pac-Audio step by step guide

and on step 7. Part 1, it flashes 3 times, like it told me to. Between Part 4 and 5, the LED should come back on...but it doesn't. I've checked all of the connects and they all seem ok. Any ideas?

 

The only thing I haven't tripled checked was the issue with Z Licious up above...maybe the wire splitter isn't working properly. Gonna give that a go tomorrow, using a smaller gauge.

 

Absolutely, positively cannot figure it out. I tried using a different size wire connector (smaller) to tap the wires and it still doesn't work. I have quadruple checked my connections and it won't recognize the steering wheel controls, no matter which button I press.

I checked the resistors and the ohms flowing through are reading fine, and tapped in to the correct wires. The black wire is grounded. The red wire is tapped in to the ACC red wire coming from the AVIC harness.


Any ideas at all???

 

stop using taps? this is why i stopped using taps about 8 years ago...too many myseterious issues... you can nevet go wrong wit hthe method i listed above...

other than a defective module, thats the only explanation i have for you...i have installed gosh...well over 200 SWI modules, and have encountered maybe 2 or 3 failed modules out of the box.

 

brick - big PM your way

 

bump....

I need help aswell with my SWI-PS not getting signal from the steering wheel...

EDIT:

figured it out...reading is fundamental...pin 21,21,23 all need to be utilized...I left 23 out of the whole deal....works find now....