ColoradoClark

iTrader: (3)

So I'm pretty burned out on the ho-hum stock stereo in my Z...but I can't lay down a whole bunch of cash at once, or my wife is likely to make me sleep on the couch .

Does it make sense to start building a SQ oriented system in stages? Maybe start with a head unit, then front speakers, then an amp...then a sub and box? Or does it make more sense to just pick up individual pieces as I can afford them (head unit, amp(s), front components, sub and zenclosure) -- and then just install it all at once?

While I'm at it: I'd like to get a solid SQ head unit that DOESN'T have Nav, since I really can't see needing the nav more than once or twice a year, if that. Any suggestions?

B5I8

iTrader: (1)

The biggest question is what's your budget and what do you plan to spend on any one particular item. For example the Clarion DRZ9255 is one of the best SQ head units but it retails for $1400.

Peteski

I would save up till you can do it all at once, no need to tear apart your car more than once, and if you have a job that offers you overtime, you will be motivated to work it to get what you really want and thats better sound. Thats just me

Spike100

Installing SQ System in Stages…

You didn’t tell us your current configuration (OEM Clarion or Bose “Upgrade”), model year of your Z, or your budget; so I’m guessing a little with my response. And, that means some of what I suggest may not be exactly correct for your needs.

You did say that navigation is not important, so that is helpful when making suggestions (I will ignore navigation).

The most important aspect here is planning the installation first… before you purchase anything.

Here is the order of installation for what I think you want to accomplish with your CES.

• Install a quality single-din H/U. Get a good one. Clarion or Eclipse are a good choice. You will get a modest improvement in sound due to a better radio and CD player. You are still with the OEM speakers, so don’t expect any miracles.
  
• Replace the rear speakers (if you think you want rear speakers) with modestly priced coaxials. If you do not want rear speakers, skip this step. If you do install decent rears, you will probably turn down the OEM fronts… yes, they are that bad) and listen to the rears until you do the next step.
  
• Replace the front speakers with quality two-way component speakers, and (very important) add an external amp at the same time. Why add the external amp now? Because: You cannot drive decent component speakers unless you install an external amp. You can mount the front components inside the door using the stock mount if you stay under 2.5” depth from wall. If you go with deeper/larger fronts, you will need door pods or kicks. Door pods or kicks provide better sound, but only if you install these correctly. If you do not want to spend the extra cost for pods or kicks, then go with the stock door installation, but respect the maximum depth, and use spacers to set the speakers. You also need to select a position for your tweeters when installing a two-way component speaker. The stock position (the Sail Panel) is not the best place for a tweeter. Seach this sub-forum for alternative mounting positions for your tweeters.
  
• Add SubW(s) to the system. The preceding step is where you should decide if you are going to use rear speakers. That way you can make a decision on your external amp. If you are planning to use rear speakers, you may need a separate amp to drive the SubW. Otherwise, you could drive the SubW and your fronts with a single external amp. But then again, many members here will recommend a separate amp to drive the SubW(s). Consider your budget and sound requirements when making this decision.

Whew… I think that is it. Done!

--Spike

ColoradoClark

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Spike! That is pretty much along the lines that I was considering.

Non-Bose, by the way -- it's a Nismo.


You said to stay below 2.5 inches.
Will a 2.5 inch mounting depth work with a spacer in the stock speaker location?

naughty240

iTrader: (3)

Good advise. I gotta redo the 3rd one. Not a fan of my Kappa perfects.

Spike100

I cannot say for sure since my Focals (Slim Version) are 2.25" (depth to wall), but they did fit with about another 1/4" to spare, so I would say that 2.5" depth to wall is very safe. Of course some of this is the magnet/basket diameter, but the Focals I installed are large here, so I'm sure 2.5" depth is good-to-go.

I cannot tell you the exact size of my spacers since I "dremeled" these to a very precise thickness. As Bing mentions, you must avoid any proximity to sheet metal in the door so that you do not get any vibration or "buzzing."

--Spike