Bass Drop Out
Radio shack won't ship to Canada. Would this work? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ov Embw%3d%3d
What you need,
- 10mm socket (to remove woofer and amp)
- Small flat head driver (to disconnect connectors and open the can)
- Phillips screw driver
- Soldering iron (to remove and solder relay)
- Solder wick (to remove solder from through hole on the circuit board)
- New relay
Panasonic CQ1-12V-19H
CQ1-12V-19H is the exact relay Bose use. CQ1-12V may work. ACQ-131 is another name of the relay.
Below is the procedure.
1. Remove the panel which covers Bose sub-woofer.
2. Remove four screws wit10mm socket.
3. Remove the sub-woofer, then disconnect white connector.
4. Loose two 10mm bolts next to woofer. You don't have to remove.
5. Amp is behind the panel. Slide up and remove.
6. Disengage the brown connector. You need flat head screw driver to push the tab to loose the connection.
7. Now amp is free from car. Take it to your work bench.
8. Remove the four screws. The amp comes off from black plastic case.
9. Disconnect white 12pin connector.
10. Lift the small tab on the shield can and open it.
11. Remove the circuit board.
12. On the right side, there is gray (in my case) cube like part. This is the realy.
13. Put the circuit board upside down.
14. Remove the solder on relay's pins. It's easy if you use solder wick.
15. Replace the faulty relay to new one.
16. Solder new relay.
17. Put the board back to the can and case, then connect cables, screw the amp back.
Enjoy.
- 10mm socket (to remove woofer and amp)
- Small flat head driver (to disconnect connectors and open the can)
- Phillips screw driver
- Soldering iron (to remove and solder relay)
- Solder wick (to remove solder from through hole on the circuit board)
- New relay
Panasonic CQ1-12V-19H
CQ1-12V-19H is the exact relay Bose use. CQ1-12V may work. ACQ-131 is another name of the relay.
Below is the procedure.
1. Remove the panel which covers Bose sub-woofer.
2. Remove four screws wit10mm socket.
3. Remove the sub-woofer, then disconnect white connector.
4. Loose two 10mm bolts next to woofer. You don't have to remove.
5. Amp is behind the panel. Slide up and remove.
6. Disengage the brown connector. You need flat head screw driver to push the tab to loose the connection.
7. Now amp is free from car. Take it to your work bench.
8. Remove the four screws. The amp comes off from black plastic case.
9. Disconnect white 12pin connector.
10. Lift the small tab on the shield can and open it.
11. Remove the circuit board.
12. On the right side, there is gray (in my case) cube like part. This is the realy.
13. Put the circuit board upside down.
14. Remove the solder on relay's pins. It's easy if you use solder wick.
15. Replace the faulty relay to new one.
16. Solder new relay.
17. Put the board back to the can and case, then connect cables, screw the amp back.
Enjoy.
Last edited by nbnkt; Apr 10, 2014 at 12:41 PM.
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Just this past week I read this forum. I had already tinkered with the system and isolated the problem to the amp but was unsure of the exact cause and solution. I read all the suggestions and settled on drilling the hole and applying pressure via a flat screw/bolt. So far so good. Thanks for the help everyone.
After listening(I make my living with my ears) the intermittent pop and subsequent dropping in my amp is because of the relay in side of the amp.If you open the amp you'll see a little white box. It is the relay. I applied a little pressure to the top and the amp started working. This was done after checking every connection in the amp. I released the pressure and the sub quit working again.Not wanting to track down a replacement relay I simply cut a piece of solid plastic the diameter of an pencil and positioned it on the lid of the amp to keep pressure on the relay. This by no means is the best way to deal with what is clearly a bad design on Nissans part but it has worked for me for over a year with no dropping out.If I ever have to open it up again I'll post pics. Pretty easy fix.
Here is the pic of amp...did just as you said and it the sub kicked right in. Layered some paper and duct tape and sounds good so far...hope it holds up.
I love this forum!
I took out my sub and amp, opened it up and found the only previous owner of my car tried to tape the relay down with a piece of hard plastic pushing down on it. It had moved and wasn't putting pressure on the relay anymore. I took that off, folded up a pice of paper, wrapped it about 10 times in electric tape to make it nice and thick and closed up,the amp case. It was a tight fit, but it snapped closed. That way I knew I was getting good pressure down on the relay. Turned on the radio and bam! Bass! I turned the radio settings down from +5 to +2 and it sounded pretty good. Much better than before the sub worked! You can feel,it in your back! It doesn't hit like after market subs, but for no cost to me, it is a vast improvement!
Putting in the depo blacked out 06 headlights and Ricks smoked side markers with LEDs next weekend, along with all LED lamps.
Next, tint the windows and let it ride!
Thanks guys
I took out my sub and amp, opened it up and found the only previous owner of my car tried to tape the relay down with a piece of hard plastic pushing down on it. It had moved and wasn't putting pressure on the relay anymore. I took that off, folded up a pice of paper, wrapped it about 10 times in electric tape to make it nice and thick and closed up,the amp case. It was a tight fit, but it snapped closed. That way I knew I was getting good pressure down on the relay. Turned on the radio and bam! Bass! I turned the radio settings down from +5 to +2 and it sounded pretty good. Much better than before the sub worked! You can feel,it in your back! It doesn't hit like after market subs, but for no cost to me, it is a vast improvement!
Putting in the depo blacked out 06 headlights and Ricks smoked side markers with LEDs next weekend, along with all LED lamps.
Next, tint the windows and let it ride!
Thanks guys
After fixing my subwoofer problem this way, now my entire stereo won't put out sound til the car gets hot (like out in the sun for 30 mins). Is this module related to this? If so i'm going to spend the 90 and replace it.
No in the back of the car on the drivers side their is another amplifier burried under the carpet and some foam pieces... That sends power to the speakers and the signal to that little Bose amp...
The head unit controls everything...
No idea about your power supply issue that is an odd situation.
The head unit controls everything...
No idea about your power supply issue that is an odd situation.


