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Bass Drop Out

Old 07-30-2010, 09:26 AM
  #81  
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Anybody have this issue or is it just my mind playing tricks on me. After fixing the sub amp do you feel you get less of a kick from the subwoofer than you did before? Just wondering. Some of the songs I played before sounded like the had more bass before the subwoofer failed. Now that its fixed I'm happy but I feel the kick isn't as strong as it used to be.
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:18 PM
  #82  
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^ It's exactly the same as it was before the bass started cutting out.


BTW, my piece of paper that I folded up in there got too flat over time so I had to redo mine. I used a pencil tip eraser (half of the circumference where it slips on top of a wooden pencil was cut away). The angle of the tip of these erasers are perfect fit for the shape of the amp and location of the relay within the amp housing.
Attached Thumbnails Bass Drop Out-spi-pap73015.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2010, 11:10 AM
  #83  
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some nice suggestions, and to the guy with pics/guide - thanks a lot! That saves people A LOT of time that you don't have to take out the trim plastics, you can just take out the plastic cover.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:17 AM
  #84  
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Default Over a year now!

Originally Posted by bluebadge View Post
The paper idea is a great one, I did this myself yesterday. The only issue was that it was a pain to figure out how much paper I needed to wodge in there to get it to work so. I tried several times to get the right amount of pressure but it seemed like the paper was not exerting enough force so..., (now this sounds drastic but worked great) I drilled a small hole in the housing above the relay (obviously the circuit board had been removed from housing first!) then found a bolt, re-assembled the unit and just screwed down the bolt until it applied enough pressure on the top of the relay to get it working (whatever you do if you try this DO NOT USE A SCREW as this will puncture the relay and could cause permanent damage).

My other concern with the paper method is I had no idea how much heat was likley to build up in the unit after operating it for lengthy periods and didn't feel like taking a chance on having the paper ignite.

Hope this is found to be useful.. If I ever take it apart again I will post some pics.

Ok, just an update, the bolt fix is still going strong, well over a year now and not a single issue!!!
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:18 PM
  #85  
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Worked like a charm.

I wrapped my paper in electrical tape as well.

I was very surprised at how small and dinky the amp was lol.
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:34 AM
  #86  
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Default Anyone with a woofer sub amp laying around?

So I posted the pics for this repair a while back and now my sub amp is completely dead. I was wondering if anyone has replaced their system and willing to part ways with their sub amp. I believe part number 28060-CD000 or 28060-CF42B. Hit me up if you do, even if it has the fix on it. Let me know how much you want for it.

FYI, after time the sound would cut out again so I added a little bit more electrical tape and screwed it in. This last time there was too much tape that when I screwed it in it started to bend the circuit board. I believe that somewhere a thin connected just broke. So beware and don't make the same mistake I made.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:48 AM
  #87  
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Default You Tube Video of Repair

So I posted the picture tutorial on how to fix the sub amp. I had issues again so I decided to make a video to help show how easy this is. Skill level from a 1-10 is a 1. Just need a screw driver, 10mm rachet and 30 minutes if you want to be slow.

This is video of me removing the Bose sub amp:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nGRO...e_gdata_player


And this is me adding the piece of paper to fix the sub amp:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAkYM...e_gdata_player


This site has been super helpful and pictures always help. But if a picture is worth a thousand words, videos are worth a million.

Again mine completely died so if anyone who replaced their system and wants to sell their Bose sub amp (even is it has this band aid repair), let me know. Looking for part number 28060-CD000 or 28060-CF42B.

Hope the videos help.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:37 PM
  #88  
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Default replacement relays

replacement relays for that board. $5 fix. the pins will be a little different but the board can accommodate 2 different type of pin placement relays.

p/n JS1-12V-F digikey.com, p/n R46-5D3-12 newark.com
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:03 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by jimziggy3 View Post
replacement relays for that board. $5 fix. the pins will be a little different but the board can accommodate 2 different type of pin placement relays.

p/n JS1-12V-F digikey.com, p/n R46-5D3-12 newark.com
Yeah I tried that but since I put too much pressure on the relay my circuit board started to bend and crack. Stupid me. Thanks for the suggestion though. Just frustrating not to have Bass in the car.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:37 AM
  #90  
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Default Purchased new sub amp through Bose

So I e-mailed Bose about the amp and a quote. Their response was:

Hello Juan,

Thank you for your inquiry regarding the Bose Automotive Music System in your 2004 Nissan 350Z. *In answer to your question, we can provide replacement speaker(s) or amplifier assembly for your Bose Music System. *Please contact our Consumer Support Line at *508-766-9522 with part number off the component you need to order over the phone with a credit card.

Hours of Operation: *Monday Friday 8:00 AM to 3:30 PM EST
PLEASE NOTE: *All parts ship out on Friday through UPS
Acceptable Payment Cards : *Visa, MC, Discover, American Express (PLEASE DO NOT SEND THIS INFORMATION THROUGH EMAIL THIS IS NOT A SECURE ENVIRONMENT)Thank you for contacting Bose Corporation.
Patty Bolack
Consumer Relations Division
-----------------------------------------------------
Bose Corporation ********************
US Telephone: (800)231-2673
International Tel: (508)766-9522
Fax Number: (508)766-9103


Email: http://www.bose.com

Office Hours: Monday - Friday 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM *(EST)
************Visit our Website: *www.bose.com
-----------------------------------------------------

Gereric response but I called anyways thinking it would some outrageous price like $500. To my surprise it was only $75. With shipping and taxes it was $83 total. Posting this so you don't get something from eBay for $140 or online site for $150 plus $20 shipping which was what I was going to do. Replacing the stereo when it still works isn't economical for me but to finally get Bass back into my stereo is worth the $83 for me. Band aid fix worked for me for years, it's a good fix. But if it ever dies now you know it won't cost you a crazy amount to buy a new one from Bose.

Juan
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:44 PM
  #91  
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It'll go out again, though. So, basically, Bose wants $83 from us every year or two -- great. Window motors anyone?
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:58 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero View Post
It'll go out again, though. So, basically, Bose wants $83 from us every year or two -- great. Window motors anyone?
Pretty much yeah, it will go out again. But by then it won't be my problem anymore
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:23 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by melikepaint View Post
Worked like a charm.

I wrapped my paper in electrical tape as well.

I was very surprised at how small and dinky the amp was lol.
I did this a little over a month ago now and haven't had any reoccurrences of the previous issue to date. I am not an audiophile by any means, but the sound I get in the car now is lightyears beyond what it was prior to the quick fix.

Thanks for the DIY, guys.
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:01 PM
  #94  
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^ Just so you know, this doesn't change the sound for the better. All you're doing is getting your bass, which was cutting out, back.
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:54 PM
  #95  
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my bass has been has been out for over 2 years and i havent been on the z forums in about the same time. i 1st thought it was my aftermarket sub and amp. i removed that and it still was happening i just started back on the forums, seen this thread tried it and wooooooowww!! my bass is back on.you guys rockkkkk!!! i used a washer and duck taped it to the relay itself. when i closed it back it the housing put alot pressure on it so its good now.

now to put my L7 sub back in
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:59 AM
  #96  
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Does the amp get hot? Would the paper trick pose a fire risk?
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:10 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Does the amp get hot? Would the paper trick pose a fire risk?
This has been answered before in this thread but nope, no fire risk. But if you want to use electrical tape to lessen your risk go ahead. Putting pressure on the relay is the most important thing. Or call Bose for a replacement amp, it's only $85 total if you're scared of the fire risk. Good luck
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:00 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by adamtaylorpcb View Post
BASS people... not base, this isnt crack were talking about


the problem is that bose blose

change it out asap
cocaine freebase=mmmmmm
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:04 AM
  #99  
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Can anyone solder? Please take some pride in your car and put away the paper, duct tape, plastic , glue and eraser head away lol. I replaced the relay on the amp board and its working 100% with out the worry of cutting out again.

replacement relays for that amp board cost about $5. The pins may be a little different but the board can accommodate 2 different type of pin placement relays.

p/n JS1-12V-F digikey.com, p/n R46-5D3-12 newark.com

Last edited by jimziggy3; 04-05-2012 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:16 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by jimziggy3 View Post
Can anyone solder? Please take some pride in your car and put away the paper, duct tape, plastic , glue and eraser head away lol. I replaced the relay on the amp board and its working 100% with out the worry of cutting out again.

replacement relays for that amp board cost about $5. The pins may be a little different but the board can accommodate 2 different type of pin placement relays.

p/n JS1-12V-F digikey.com, p/n R46-5D3-12 newark.com
Soldering or using duct tape, the end result is the same, your Subwoofer works. Plus the items are readily available so it can be fixed in 20 minutes instead of waiting for the relay to be shipped to you. Besides, trying the quick fix at least let's you know for sure that the sub amp is the actual problem, and not the subwoofer for example.
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