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Bass Drop Out

Old 04-19-2009, 09:29 AM
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SSZVirginia
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Default Bass Drop Out

I have a 03 with the Bose system. Recently bass began to drop out randomly. It comes and goes. Do any of you folks know if it’s the amp or HU?





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https://my350z.com/forum/7381292-post14.html

Last edited by 3hree5ive0ero; 07-16-2009 at 04:52 PM. Reason: solution to the problem
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Old 04-19-2009, 09:59 AM
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p4l
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I have the same problem, and i had an aftermarket head unit with the bose amp and speakers...anyway i went to an audio store and they said 95% sure its the amp because when the base came in it sounded good...they said they can fix the amp though GL
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Old 04-19-2009, 10:46 AM
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wasnt there a recall on those amps
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:51 PM
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BASS people... not base, this isnt crack were talking about


the problem is that bose blose

change it out asap
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Old 04-19-2009, 04:43 PM
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I know the system sucks but am not interested in dropping $1K into it. The CD froze long ago with six discs inside. Is the only option to replace the HU and AMP?
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:35 PM
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you can just replace the H/U
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:56 PM
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i had the same problems and the dealer rplaced the hu and the amp and it still cuts out, im thinking its the sub?
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by diablox1 View Post
wasnt there a recall on those amps
There was a TSB and I had mine checked within months of buying the car. It was a latter model that did not fall under it.

Originally Posted by adamtaylorpcb View Post
you can just replace the H/U
I am a newb at car audio but if the AMP is the problem than how can replacing the HU fix it?

Thanks for all your help.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by p4l View Post
I have the same problem, and i had an aftermarket head unit with the bose amp and speakers...anyway i went to an audio store and they said 95% sure its the amp because when the base came in it sounded good...they said they can fix the amp though GL
I have the same problem going on now, with aftermarker HU on bose speakers and sub, and it first started with the tweeters crackling, so I had those replaced... didn't do jack.

Now my left speaker is low and pretty much obsolete when on, as well as my sub, while I'm bumping there is slight "popping" at certain peaks...

So I'm guessing it's either connection problems or the amp... I have an 03 touring and the problem is only occuring now which is pretty good in my opinion, but I think I might do an aftermarket amp that matches or is higher than the OEM specs of the stock amp. And atleast when they are installing the amp they will be checking connections, so it's like a two birds-one stone scenario.

Has anyone tried this solution? Does anyone know the factory specs on the OEM amp?
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:28 PM
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Okay after reading 9 freaking pages of "bose amp sub" searching... ultimately it comes down to the speaker amp and the sub amp being sub-par.

Some people have suggested of replacing it with another set of bose speaker and sub amps, possibly used ones from members on the forum.

No one has really answered the question if the OEM speakers and OEM sub could be used with aftermarket amps especially the question of if the wiring of the OEM components is even adaptable to aftermarket amps because of Bose's awkward sub-par design of the speakers and sub.

I personally think for common use/DD use it's a decent set, obviously I wouldn't do a sound competition with them, but for DD use, I would really like to keep them myself.

Hopefully someone could answer the question of aftermarket amps being used on OEM speakers and subs, and what specifications are necessary to make the aftermarket work with the OEM.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jubes View Post
Okay after reading 9 freaking pages of "bose amp sub" searching... ultimately it comes down to the speaker amp and the sub amp being sub-par.

Some people have suggested of replacing it with another set of bose speaker and sub amps, possibly used ones from members on the forum.

No one has really answered the question if the OEM speakers and OEM sub could be used with aftermarket amps especially the question of if the wiring of the OEM components is even adaptable to aftermarket amps because of Bose's awkward sub-par design of the speakers and sub.

I personally think for common use/DD use it's a decent set, obviously I wouldn't do a sound competition with them, but for DD use, I would really like to keep them myself.

Hopefully someone could answer the question of aftermarket amps being used on OEM speakers and subs, and what specifications are necessary to make the aftermarket work with the OEM.
It’s a mistake to believe you can improve your CES by adding decent components to existing lame components. It never works; it’s a waste of money and time.

If you are experiencing a problem with the junk OEM stuff, but are not willing to do a complete replacement ($$ is certainly an obstacle), just find OEM junk to replace the stuff that isn’t working.

It’s foolish to attempt blending good components with OEM junk. Don’t do that.

--Spike
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Old 04-21-2009, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike100 View Post

Its foolish to attempt blending good components with OEM junk. Dont do that.

--Spike
I think you are right.
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:18 AM
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Who has an unused OEM amp sitting in their garage?
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:17 PM
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Default OEM amp problem found (at least in mine)

After listening(I make my living with my ears) the intermittent pop and subsequent dropping in my amp is because of the relay in side of the amp.If you open the amp you'll see a little white box. It is the relay. I applied a little pressure to the top and the amp started working. This was done after checking every connection in the amp. I released the pressure and the sub quit working again.Not wanting to track down a replacement relay I simply cut a piece of solid plastic the diameter of an pencil and positioned it on the lid of the amp to keep pressure on the relay. This by no means is the best way to deal with what is clearly a bad design on Nissans part but it has worked for me for over a year with no dropping out.If I ever have to open it up again I'll post pics. Pretty easy fix.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:06 PM
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What does pressure on the relay do to correct the issue?
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:58 AM
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so the plastic piece applies pressure because it the box closes on top of it, therefore applying pressure on to the relay?
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Old 05-31-2009, 06:17 AM
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Anyone have an Bose OEM amp for an 03 I can buy?
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy Mack View Post
After listening(I make my living with my ears) the intermittent pop and subsequent dropping in my amp is because of the relay in side of the amp.If you open the amp you'll see a little white box. It is the relay. I applied a little pressure to the top and the amp started working. This was done after checking every connection in the amp. I released the pressure and the sub quit working again.Not wanting to track down a replacement relay I simply cut a piece of solid plastic the diameter of an pencil and positioned it on the lid of the amp to keep pressure on the relay. This by no means is the best way to deal with what is clearly a bad design on Nissans part but it has worked for me for over a year with no dropping out.If I ever have to open it up again I'll post pics. Pretty easy fix.
Thanks for posting this. I just tried this on my Bose sub amp and it actually worked.

If you open up the amp itself, which is enclosed in a metal enclosure, you'll see this gray box on the circuit board. I made my sub go out first on purpose (by increasing bass) and then applied pressure to see if that indeed would correct the problem (while the amp was taken apart but still connected). Lo and behold, it actually solved the issue and I blasted everything to purposely make the sub go out again with pressure applied, but it held up fine. BTW, I have an aftermarket headunit with its own amp, which also allows me to crank up the "bass" more than the stock headunit.

I just folded up some printer paper and taped it down to the gray box, then closed the enclosure back up. One corner of the enclosure was lifted up maybe a little under 2mm, which I felt was enough, when the enclosure was put back together. Then when you put the screw back it, it will hold the pressure onto that gray box.

Anyway, you probably can't imagine this in your head, but once you start taking things apart and see the actual pieces, it will make sense.

Thanks again for posting this little trick.
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:00 AM
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Hey wats up ? i have been searching the thread and you seem to make the most sense. first off, where the hell IS the sub amp, i havnt had much time to explore and dont drive my o4 Silverstone much, but the in-out base is killin me when i do ! man it would be a great help if you could e-mail me some picts. i know i can do this, just too lazy to find out where everything is. if i know where to start i can just go rip into it.
hey thanks again,, [email protected]

kenny brown Glen Allen Va.
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:48 PM
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This problem has been coming up for years and years. In the past I've sent people to check for loose connections in the back on the amplifier and the speaker ... and they stopped complaining. I'm assuming they're finding the problem. The stuck relay might be the problem. I'll keep that in my bag of tricks.

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