Thought this might help someone out.

With two JL Audio amps (4 Channel & Monoblock), I didn't see a glaass fuse that was high enough amperage to carry both amps.

After considering dual fused legs, I decided to get a circuit breaker instead. After getting it.. finding a decent place to mount was my next problem. I cut & bent a bracket that bolts using the same bolts that hold the car fuse holder in place.
(Sorry, didn't take a picture of the bracket, but fairly easy to fbricate. )

I like the location... easy to get to, and the red button is a 'disconnect'. The reset is under the clear cover (sold separately).

Comments ?

 

Yeah... this is fantastic! Which part number(s) did you order, because I'm working with the same JL Audio amps that you installed?

 

GR - Just a word of advice based on experience. I like Stinger/AAMP products but I had a similar circuit breaker on an SPL S-10 install & it managed to lock itself into the closed position over time ( probably due to the elements & heat/vibration ). Had I not been checking my wiring before an event it might have cost me at least a lot of components if not the entire truck! I'd suggest that U periodically trip & reset the breaker to make sure it doesn't do the same thing on you. Personally, I now use clear fuse holders ( generally with Maxi-Fuses ) because I can tell at a quick glance whether or not it's been tripped. Enjoy your system!

 

Thanks for the warning on the circuit breaker.

Regarding the amps I'm installing...
I'm using the new JL Audio e4300 for the front & rear channel speakers, and the JL Audio e1200 for the subwoofer.

Anyone else have any experience with these amps ?

 

similar caution like the one mentioned before. I frequent car audio forums often, and even though i have never had exp with circuit breakers, have read several bad experiences amongst other users. how come you didnt just use a fused d block or ANL fuse holder if this is the fuse by the battery? ANL fuses go up to 300A, no?

 

I was looking at the cost of the ANL fuseholder + fuse and the CB was a less expensive option. Had never heard of any problems with CB's. I could always change to ANL if I ever have a problem. So far I've tested the 'trip' mechanism and it works like a charm.

 

I sale stinger, and in my opinion its the best out there. I would however have to agree that you need to boot the CB. If it fails for whatever reason you could easily catch your Z on fire. At best burn a nice stripe down the carpet leading to the amp. I used a ANL, but any kind of fuse will work rated w/ the amps you need.

 

i put a dual wafer fuse block in, they have wafers all the way to 300 amps, that should be plenty, mine is the platinum series, you can go to darvex.com they have great prices.

 

Thanks...
That's where I bought all my cable, interconnects, etc from. You're right.. great prices. Looks like I'll be replacing the CB with a fuse! I knew this thread would help someone out.. just didn't expect it to be me. Thanks to all that posted with your experiences with circuit breakers.... And I thought it was such a clean install and hadn't seen anyone post any pics of it being done. Shoulda asked first !