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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #1  
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I just finished an install on an 06' Saturn Ion with a Memphis sub and amp, using the factory AAS headunit. But I need an answer to what is happening...
The bass from the subwoofer will cut out (the amp goes into protection momentarily) when it is pushed hard enough. The gain on the amp is only 3/4 and the bass control on the deck is only less than half. If i turn those up any more, it will cut out more frequently. Its as if the amp is being choked of power and shutting off. It happens even more if the car isnt running. It all sounds GREAT but you can tell it wants to get louder...its just as if the charging system wont allow it.

How can I fix this problem? Does he need a new battery? Would an aftermarket deck help at all?

Any help would be appreciated

Amp is a Memphis 16-MC1500D
Sub is a Memphis M3 MOJO 12 wired @ 2ohm





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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:20 AM
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Theres probably severe voltage drop. That cars stock electrical system prob cant handle the demands of that amp. Do you have a dimm..then you can check it at the point where its about to cut out. Find out what amp his alternator is too and stock batt specs
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by doug
are the speaker wires connected when it goes into protection?

when my amp went into protection.. here is what i did..

1) disconnected speaker wires
2) disconnect RCA's
3) fired up amp

....

amp was no longer in protection..

turned the car off

.....

plugged in RCA's and fired up car...

amp was no longer in protection

turned car off

......

plugged in speaker wires...

amp goes into protection

check noticed that the speaker wires on the left side of the sub were disconnected and touching..

if you disconnect everything and only the speaker wires are putting it into protection.. it could also be the connection inside the box..

if you are going into protection without RCA's and speaker wires..

i would get 3 wires ((2) positive (1) ground) .. connect the 1 positive to positive input and the other positive to the remote turn on.. then twine them at the ends.. then connect the ground.. then have somone hold the amp while you make the connection at the battery.. .if the amp is still in protection.. something is wrong with the amp.. if not.. then something is wrong with your wire connections to the amp.. either your remote wire is bad.. maybe its sheered and touching metal of the chassi or even your power wire.. or maybe your ground
............
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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no its not that...i think its to do with the voltage. It only happens when its 'pushed' hard
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by duro78
Theres probably severe voltage drop. That cars stock electrical system prob cant handle the demands of that amp. Do you have a dimm..then you can check it at the point where its about to cut out. Find out what amp his alternator is too and stock batt specs
Stock alt is 105 amp

and I cant find any specs on the battery but its the stock AC DELCO
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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prolly start with a battery upgrade yellow or red top would be a good choice
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 04:06 AM
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Are you 100% positive you have a dual 4 ohm sub? Look at the sub itself, not just the box. Could have been mis-packed.

If you actually have a dual 2 ohm sub, you would either have to be wired to 4 ohms or 1 ohm.....if 1 ohm then that is your issue.

If you truly do have a dual 4 ohm voice coil Memphis M3 MOJO 12 then disregard this post.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 04:21 AM
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get a "Cap"
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:27 AM
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I am going to have to agree with the cap try that. Also how are you getting the signal from the stock head unit to the amp? Also check that you have the sub wired correctly I have seen it time and time again were people swear they have it wired right and I go and look at it and it is not.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:53 AM
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Just my $.02

cap=band aid to a bigger problem
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:55 AM
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Well I have used them for over 4 years now on some installs, yes SOME installs require a bigger alt and battery but I am not sure that that is what he needs just this time. I do have to say that it is a week alt for that big a$$ amp. So he could go either way.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Are you 100% positive you have a dual 4 ohm sub? Look at the sub itself, not just the box. Could have been mis-packed.

If you actually have a dual 2 ohm sub, you would either have to be wired to 4 ohms or 1 ohm.....if 1 ohm then that is your issue.

If you truly do have a dual 4 ohm voice coil Memphis M3 MOJO 12 then disregard this post.
it IS a dual 2ohm sub...and the amp is 2 ohm stable. I just ran wire from one coil to one channel, and the other coil to the other channel on the amp, hoping to achieve a 2ohm load on each channel...but I JUST realized (thanks to you guys) that this is where I messed up I think.

Would I have to run the coils in series @ 4ohm to the amp (bridged) to achieve the best setup?


Link to sub:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-M3MOJO12.html

AMP
http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Memphis_16-MC1500D/

Memphis 16-MC1500D
MClass Series
1 x 750W @ 4 ohms (0.75% THD)
1 x 1500W @ 2 ohms (1% THD)
S/N Ratio: >100dB
Freq. Response: 10Hz ∼ 650Hz (± 1dB)
Fuse: 5 x 30A
Dimensions: 19" x 6.5" x 2" (48.3cm x 16.5cm x 5.1cm)
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanatic
I am going to have to agree with the cap try that. Also how are you getting the signal from the stock head unit to the amp? Also check that you have the sub wired correctly I have seen it time and time again were people swear they have it wired right and I go and look at it and it is not.
used an inline converter tapped into the rear speakers for the RCA input to the amp. and yes i may have it wired wrong...hopefully everyone on here can help me clear it up
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by liven Z life
prolly start with a battery upgrade yellow or red top would be a good choice
Yes, battery and cap will be the next step if its not something to do with the wiring...
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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cap is garbage.. don't waste your time
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JonnyRod
used an inline converter tapped into the rear speakers for the RCA input to the amp. and yes i may have it wired wrong...hopefully everyone on here can help me clear it up
not for nothing.. but if you had follow the steps i gave you earlier .. you would have eliminated 90% posibilities or solved the problem already.. i'm just saying
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by doug
not for nothing.. but if you had follow the steps i gave you earlier .. you would have eliminated 90% posibilities or solved the problem already.. i'm just saying
your steps? I dont think they apply to me though...the amp does not ever stay in protection
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 07:17 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by JonnyRod
your steps? I dont think they apply to me though...the amp does not ever stay in protection
mine never stayed in protection either i still figured it out by eliminating each piece of the install
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 07:59 AM
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it seems a simple multimeter can check out two of your potential problems.

check the sub to see hwat its reading resistance wise, and see what voltage you get when it shuts off

but yeah you had it at 1ohm before with the way it was wired...wire it in series to 4ohm and see what happens?
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