unsatisfied, need input
#1
unsatisfied, need input
so this is what I currently have, I don't need input on what I have rather what I should do/get:
-Kenwood DNX8120
-(2) Elemental Designs nine.2x amps (200x2 to components, 600wx1 to single 10")
-(1) 10" Elemental Designs e5.10 subwoofer
-(1) Pair of Hybrid C51-2 (front)
As everyone recommended I got no rear speakers. The installer was unable to get the Hybrid C61-2 in the front so I went with a small C51-2. Whether it's the size or something else I feel like I am definitely NOT getting the fulfilling sound that everyone said I would with just front speakers. My e5.10 recently blew so I'm about to RMA that back to eD. This is what I am thinking of doing, please add input.
The nine.2x amp puts out 200x2/300x2 4/2ohm. I was wondering if I could get larger 6.5" speakers for the front, move my C51-2 to the rear and have my amp put out 100x4 @ 4ohm?
I also realized eD is clearing out of there nine.1 amp which puts out 1200w x1 @ 1ohm. I was hoping to see if they would give me a nine.1 instead of replacing my e5.10 since they are about the same price. If that worked I could sell one of my nine.2x's replace it with a nine.1 and get (2)IDQ10D2.
Any and all nicely put input is appreciated
Sean
-Kenwood DNX8120
-(2) Elemental Designs nine.2x amps (200x2 to components, 600wx1 to single 10")
-(1) 10" Elemental Designs e5.10 subwoofer
-(1) Pair of Hybrid C51-2 (front)
As everyone recommended I got no rear speakers. The installer was unable to get the Hybrid C61-2 in the front so I went with a small C51-2. Whether it's the size or something else I feel like I am definitely NOT getting the fulfilling sound that everyone said I would with just front speakers. My e5.10 recently blew so I'm about to RMA that back to eD. This is what I am thinking of doing, please add input.
The nine.2x amp puts out 200x2/300x2 4/2ohm. I was wondering if I could get larger 6.5" speakers for the front, move my C51-2 to the rear and have my amp put out 100x4 @ 4ohm?
I also realized eD is clearing out of there nine.1 amp which puts out 1200w x1 @ 1ohm. I was hoping to see if they would give me a nine.1 instead of replacing my e5.10 since they are about the same price. If that worked I could sell one of my nine.2x's replace it with a nine.1 and get (2)IDQ10D2.
Any and all nicely put input is appreciated
Sean
#2
Having 5.25" mids in the doors 'might' be contributing to the lack of midbass (full) sound, but probably not as much as you might think. The C51-2 have a rated response down to 55Hz. That's lower than a lot of 6.5" mids that come with component sets, but the tradeoff is not quite as much cone surface area to yield the same output as a 6.5". Instead of looking at the equipment being used as a culprit, I would focus on the install and tuning first. How are the mids mounted? in rings, pods, or directly screwed to the door? Are the doors deadened and sealed off? What are your crossover and slope settings?
For the sub situation, an idQ is a nice sub and I would recommend needing only 1. If you are going with the Q series, you most likely aren't looking for 200dB of SPL, but rather more along the lines of SQ. So since you are trying to match up with a 5.25 component set, 1 idQ should be enough in the proper enclosure with the proper RMS power.
Now, with 1 10" sub and the C51-2 set, I would START with your crossover set at 80Hz with a 12dB slope, I would imagine that if properly installed, those mids should be able to be crossed even a hair lower, like 65Hz or 70Hz or so with a 18dB slope. Also be sure to PROPERLY set your gains.
For the sub situation, an idQ is a nice sub and I would recommend needing only 1. If you are going with the Q series, you most likely aren't looking for 200dB of SPL, but rather more along the lines of SQ. So since you are trying to match up with a 5.25 component set, 1 idQ should be enough in the proper enclosure with the proper RMS power.
Now, with 1 10" sub and the C51-2 set, I would START with your crossover set at 80Hz with a 12dB slope, I would imagine that if properly installed, those mids should be able to be crossed even a hair lower, like 65Hz or 70Hz or so with a 18dB slope. Also be sure to PROPERLY set your gains.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 10-01-2009 at 05:22 AM.
#3
you can get them in the doors..... trust me. i have had hybrid L6's in my doors
see if you can trade up to the legatia series. im feeding my L1-pros and my L4's 100w rms each
let me know if you need me to call the shop and tell this guy how to do his job
see if you can trade up to the legatia series. im feeding my L1-pros and my L4's 100w rms each
let me know if you need me to call the shop and tell this guy how to do his job
#6
Local installer did it who was recommended by a friend. He's been doing car audio install work for the past 10 years. To be honest it seemed not that he didn't know what he was doing but maybe that he had rushed it a bit.
I guess IDQ's don't fit in zenclosures boxes according to them. Anyone know of any other companies that make very similar enclosures for the Z that will fit an IDQ10?
I guess IDQ's don't fit in zenclosures boxes according to them. Anyone know of any other companies that make very similar enclosures for the Z that will fit an IDQ10?
Last edited by SoCal-Zzzz; 10-01-2009 at 12:54 PM.
#7
Buy speaker pods and get the 6.5" speakers on there. Speaker pods made a difference to me in getting the fuller sound stage but I still enjoy the surround sound feel of having rear speakers when on the highway with the windows down..
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#9
i used to think $200 was steep so i built my own...... what a pain in the *** but im happy i did it..... i like my version better
You need L6's in the doors (150-200 w/rms) and L1-pro's in pillars (100 w/rms) and go activey
You need L6's in the doors (150-200 w/rms) and L1-pro's in pillars (100 w/rms) and go activey
Last edited by adamtaylorpcb; 10-02-2009 at 10:11 AM.
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