Finally finished installing system.

JL Audio e4300 4 Channel Amp is mounted on a slide I built in factory glove box out of 1/2 aluminum channel (Home Depot). 3/8 plywood fits in the channel. Snug fit, but amp can be slid forward for adjustment.

JL Audio e1200 monoblock amp is mounted in the 'tray'. Was a tight fit, but it's in there.

Holes drilled in back bottom of glove box for all wiring.

So far, no issues with heat

Rest of the system is:

Factory HU (Bose Premium) with factory NAV

Line Output Converter - AudioLink PowerDriver PD4 with CableLink wiring harness. All interconnects are Stinger.

JL Audio 6.5" 2-way evolution in all 4 corners, with JL Audio 10W3v2 sub in factory location. Tweets are Kenwoods (perfect fit in factory location).

100 sq feet of dynamat.

Sound is incredibe even with factory HU. Can't imagine it sounding much better

Total cost $1200

 

From the other angle
I know there has to be a way to post 2 pictures in the same message...

 

very very clean.
how did the dynomat work out for you? get rid of the rattles?
i have done 1 stereo install so far on a friends Z, (box in the spare tire well).

i am thinking of your set up though for when i get a Z (is it bad i am already planning out mods before i buy it?)
how does it sound with only the one sub? i am debating abotu wheni get to that point of two in the spare well, or one in the stock location.

brandon

 

What are rattles ?
Car is MUCH quieter. Spent a lot of time layering over the wheel well areas.

I'm satisfied with the one sub, but to each his own. I've got plenty of bass in the car, and enough thump.

 

Ive heard that the stock sub placement behind the drivers seat sucks??? But this is just what ive hear, people have said that you should put it somewhere else in the car??? If i read right you put yours in the stock place??? How is the sound?
TC

 

Nice and clean, great work. You have to be the first person that is actually satisfied with the output of the Bose HU... I went through trying to convert the output of that headunit, and it never sounded good or clean. I had ticks, pops, buzzes, etc...and the overall sound quality was just poor. I went with a new head unit and it cleaned everything up, and increased my overall dynamic range by alot.

This whole thread makes me wonder if Bose re-engineered the old head unit, because the only thing mine was good for was a boat anchor.

 

tcz wrote:
If i read right you put yours in the stock place??? How is the sound?

Yes, I put the sub in the stock location. Dynomated the entire area, except hole where seat-belt goes. With the volume of that space, and opening, makes it act more as a ported enclosure than sub box. Plenty of Bass, but still thinking of putting a box in that space to make it a little tighter. Or might wait for the JL audio stealth box !

onecoolee wrote:
You have to be the first person that is actually satisfied with the output of the Bose HU... I went through trying to convert the output of that headunit, and it never sounded good or clean.

I had the same concerns when I started, and figured that when I got done, if I didn't like the sound, it was only a matter of ripping out the HU and eliminating the line-output converter, and connecting the RCA's that are presently connected to the line-output converter directly to the new HU. Other than the line-output converter, nothing would be wasted. So I was pleasantly surprised with how good it sounds. I think the trick was the line-output converter I used - AudioLink PD4. I spoke with the guys at linkmeup.com and they agreed to take the unit back if it didn't work as advertised. I set the gain of the PD4 at slightly under 0db. When I went higher, it introduced distortion. I used the channel gains of the JLAudio e4300 to balance the system. I'm not going to say that this sounds as good as an Alpine or other top-end HU.. the audio controls just aren't there. But the sound is good and clean, plenty of range control. I've compared it to other custom sound systems (not z) and mine sounded as good if not better. I'd like to compare sound against some other Z installs in the Charlotte NC area... maybe if I heard some other sytems I'd be disappointed in mine? BTW, I don't think my head unit was re-engineered - I ordered my car in Oct and took delivery Feb 1.

 

150 square feet? Are you sure about that number? That sure does seem like a lot. I did my trunk area, roof line and both doors with one box of extreme dynamat. Not sure how much I had, but 150 seems kinda high.

 

You're correct. It did sound like a lot.. so I refigured....
We bought 100 sq feet from b-quiet which came on two 50 sq ft rolls. We started on my sons truck, and had about 1/2 roll left over... maybe 25 sq ft. When I started on the Z, I went through the rest of that roll (didn't even get out of the trunk area) and ordered another 100 sq ft. I still have a little left over... at most 1/2 roll, so it's probably closer to 100 sq ft total. I'll correct my previous post ! Thanks

Attached is a pic of the sound deadening going into the truck (I know, it's not a Z, but was another fun project !)

 

I have an 8" sub (Bazooka tube) that I want to throw in my Z, but it has the stock BLOZE system so I'm not sure it will work. Can anyone answer the following questions for me:

1.) Can I run this without changing anything?
2.) If I have to change/add something, what is it?
3.) Where do I connect it?

-Speaker Specs-

Power Threshold: 6 - 300 watts
Impedance: 4 ohm
Sensitivity: 102 db
Frequency Response: 39 - 1500 hz.
Recommended Power: 150 watts (rms)
Voice Coil Size: 2" high pwr./high temp.
Magnet Weight: 36 oz.

-Chrismcagle

 

hey grutter .. i like your setup .. can you post some more pictures .. show me where you put the sub and the way you run power to your amp. Thank you !

tcn