Help hardwiring radar!!
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From: West palm beach, Fl
Hi there, ok I have a passport escort x50 + the directwire installed in my previous car, but I never got around to install it in my Z. So today I was decided to do it, I install all the cables thru the panels so far so good, went to the fuse box, turn ignicion on and start looking for a hot wire with my tester, I couldn't find no wire.. have anybody did this?? please if so..tell me which cable did u taped, I found some post about using a fuse split??, but why would I do that?? the escort wire already have a fuse.. please some help
You're doing it wrong 
Your "tester" I assume is a volt, ohm, milliamp meter and I'm betting you had it set to attempt to measure the wrong thing as the fuse box is full of electrical power.
Most volt meters have a series of confusing functions and scales. To measure the 12-13 volts direct current your volt meter needs to be in the 15 VDC range. Sometimes they use an icon for the DC of a flat line where the sine wave is used to indicate AC. If you had the meter set for AC volts, or ohms you would have read a flat line. If you tried to measure milliamps from the fuse box to ground you might have smoked the meter.
I would recommend taping into the radio's fuse circuit or another circuit controlled with the ignition switch. There are fuse taps will slip down under the "leg" of a fuse giving you a handy method of slipping on a 1/4" terminal providing a good mechanical connection.
Good luck!

Your "tester" I assume is a volt, ohm, milliamp meter and I'm betting you had it set to attempt to measure the wrong thing as the fuse box is full of electrical power.
Most volt meters have a series of confusing functions and scales. To measure the 12-13 volts direct current your volt meter needs to be in the 15 VDC range. Sometimes they use an icon for the DC of a flat line where the sine wave is used to indicate AC. If you had the meter set for AC volts, or ohms you would have read a flat line. If you tried to measure milliamps from the fuse box to ground you might have smoked the meter.
I would recommend taping into the radio's fuse circuit or another circuit controlled with the ignition switch. There are fuse taps will slip down under the "leg" of a fuse giving you a handy method of slipping on a 1/4" terminal providing a good mechanical connection.
Good luck!
Instead of running wires all the way from he fuse box, I recommend hardwiring to the dome-lights. Just pop out the lights, expose the two wires, and sodder to it. You can run the wire through the headliner and make it come out next to your rearview mirror, that way you can place the radar nice and high.
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From: West palm beach, Fl
Ok guys finally got around to do it
..I meet a guy on a local Z meeting the other day and he gave me some tips. This is a 10 minutes job deff worth it, just in case somebody would want to do the same thing here are few steps.
Tools
Pliers
Tape
Screwdriver
smartwire $25
small fuse convertor $7
15 Amp fuse $0.50


So basically you will run all the wires behind the dash panels for a cleaner look, I mounted the radar control in top of my stering wheel with some 3m tape.

Took out the door sills and the fuse box cover, very easy with a little pressure they will pop out, took the black wire from the smartwire and did a ground conection, pick any screw you like there are like four to choose.

Next step is making a conection, put together the red wires from the fuse spliter and the smartwire, use some tape or clampers to avoid shortcuts on your radar.

Finally go to the fuse box and look for the cigarrete lighter fuse, this is next to were the fuse pliers are. Take out that fuse, and replace it with spliter, dont forget to put back the same 15A fuse on the back of the fuse spliter.

Put everything back together, and double check on your ground conection. You are all set, no more 12v ugly cable hanging in your dash.

Sorry about the pics I know they are not the best, but hey I hope it helps somebody.
Tools
Pliers
Tape
Screwdriver
smartwire $25
small fuse convertor $7
15 Amp fuse $0.50


So basically you will run all the wires behind the dash panels for a cleaner look, I mounted the radar control in top of my stering wheel with some 3m tape.

Took out the door sills and the fuse box cover, very easy with a little pressure they will pop out, took the black wire from the smartwire and did a ground conection, pick any screw you like there are like four to choose.

Next step is making a conection, put together the red wires from the fuse spliter and the smartwire, use some tape or clampers to avoid shortcuts on your radar.

Finally go to the fuse box and look for the cigarrete lighter fuse, this is next to were the fuse pliers are. Take out that fuse, and replace it with spliter, dont forget to put back the same 15A fuse on the back of the fuse spliter.

Put everything back together, and double check on your ground conection. You are all set, no more 12v ugly cable hanging in your dash.

Sorry about the pics I know they are not the best, but hey I hope it helps somebody.
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From: West palm beach, Fl

anyone know if I can put the add-a-circuit into a 15amp fuse slot? The instructions say 10 amp max but im not sure if they mean 10 amp max for the new accessory im adding or the fuse im tapping into?
save yourself time and hassle
http://mirrortap.com/
http://mirrortap.com/
im want to tap into audio fuse
do you need or do you want..... there is no need for the radar to be on unless the car is running.... just my two cents
before i got this, i tapped into the radio power wire behind the waterfall... depends on where you have the detector mounted and my radar detector was about 2 inches above it on windsheild
before i got this, i tapped into the radio power wire behind the waterfall... depends on where you have the detector mounted and my radar detector was about 2 inches above it on windsheild
Last edited by travlee; Dec 9, 2013 at 03:27 PM.
forgot to mention this is for a in dash camera, i was just referring to the add-a-circuit in this thread and wondering if it was safe to tap a 15 amp slot.
I'm using a power kit that shuts power off before it drains battery. the camera has a surveillance mode that needs power when it detects motion or shock.
I'm using a power kit that shuts power off before it drains battery. the camera has a surveillance mode that needs power when it detects motion or shock.
^^ OK, got it. That does change things.
You can tap into any amp slot since your camera kit has an inline fuse that will save the equipment no matter how much power you send its way.
--Spike
You can tap into any amp slot since your camera kit has an inline fuse that will save the equipment no matter how much power you send its way.
--Spike
forgot to mention this is for a in dash camera, i was just referring to the add-a-circuit in this thread and wondering if it was safe to tap a 15 amp slot.
I'm using a power kit that shuts power off before it drains battery. the camera has a surveillance mode that needs power when it detects motion or shock.
I'm using a power kit that shuts power off before it drains battery. the camera has a surveillance mode that needs power when it detects motion or shock.
the add-a-circuit packaging says "For automotive and marine applications up to 10A"
So if i plug into a 15 Amp fuse its ok right? the 10 amp max is referring to the camera im supplying power for?
So if i plug into a 15 Amp fuse its ok right? the 10 amp max is referring to the camera im supplying power for?




nicely done!





Why you need constant power? That could possibly drain your battery. 