Just a quick question, can anyone verify what the factory amp is feeding? Do the door speakers anyway depend on it? IE if I remove my sub and rear speakers, do I might as well remove the amp too?


Sorry if this is a stupid question, I know very little when it comes to these (hence why I want to rip it out!)

 

Dude, I is confused how you do a question post like there without over reading it. I do embarassed if I speak to a person more than one like that.

 

Are you referring to a stock Bose system?

 

yes. Kacz, can you please point out exactly where I misspoke? By amp I mean the amplifier if that was confusing you...

 

the sub amp is right next to the sub on the back side of the metal panel. the 4 ch amp is in the rear on the left under the plastic riser. just loose the sub amp but u need to keep the 4ch amp cause it runs your fronts too. just disconnect the rear speakers.
and y are u taking them out??

 

You didn't answer Kwame's question about it being the Bose but I'm going to assume it is... there is an amp that powers the sub and an amp that powers the rest of the speakers.

 

Yes I see where it is, and I want to remove it. I have removed my factory sub and rear speakers and am just running door speakers now. I was just wondering if taking out the factory amp would cause problems with the door speakers, or if its only used for the sub.

Mint Racer answers my question perfectly thanks

 

Are you removing just the OEM Bose SubW amp?

--Spike

 

I have removed everything from the drivers seat back (sub, plate, plastics, rear speakers, spare, etc etc etc). Well except for the amp in the rear!

 

If you take out the amp you will have no sound. The amp powers the 4 speakers. The other amp you took out only powers the sub.

 

Is there any way to bypass the amp and still take advantage of the factory wiring?

 

Not using the OEM radio

 

DUKE, Thank you for providing a definitive answer along with a clear explanation. I was confused by GT-Rob’s narrative describing his removal. I understand now.

It sounds as though GT-Rob is near to completing the task of removing the junk OEM Bose stuff, and he only has the Bose H/U, front speakers, and amp driving the front (and now gone rear) speakers.

No one has asked Rob what his goal is, but I assume it’s getting better sound and a H/U with better features. If that is the case, he’s near the end of the dismantling the existing stuff, and ready to install the good stuff.

If that’s the case, all Rob needs to do now is:

• Swap-out the front component speakers
• Add a SubW
• Add external amp(s) for the front speakers and the SubW
• Do a minor amount of re-wiring
• Swap-out the Bose H/U

And now… my shameless plug: For the H/U swap, I would look at the new Kenwood digital H/U’s. These devices are amazing and are “support-everything digital” solutions along with backwards analog compatibility for older devices. The latest generation of digital H/U’s is scalable and updateable so they provide support even into the future. Of course they also enjoy Kenwood’s excellent reputation for reliability.

BTW, I am not associated with Kenwood in any way and do not benefit from my remarks. It’s just that I like their products for a number of reasons. To keep it fair, I will mention that I also like Alpine (H/U’s and LCD screens), and Clarion and Eclipse (H/U’s).

--Spike

 

I think I might have to end up sending you some Kenwood shirts SPIKE.

 

Spike: Thanks for the tips, however I am going the other way, and want LESS sound! The amp is literally the only thing left behind the drivers seat now Stock front interior, stripped rear.

I just wasn't ready to lose my sound completely, so am just running fronts, which are actually decent. I tried just the rear speakers and they are junk, no audio quality at all out of them. Perhaps because they are tuned for the sub.

 

Oh... I get it now (took awhile )

You will need to keep the amp for the front/rear speakers to get sound (as THEDUKE already mentions). Not to worry since it is an inexpensive small and light weight amp).

Disconnecting the rears is wise. They are cheap with very poor sound.

--Spike

 

i got a different problem.... i just removed my factory bose head unit in hopes of taking it apart and cleaning the lens with an alcohol damped q-tip..
went well at first.. then the disc changer function started acting screwy as hell... started disassembling that..
there is a screw that has a spring that hold the laser eye unit... well while fuking with that.. POP screw goes to kalamazoo.. (feel free to laugh)

so im sitting here with a dissassembled head unit... that barely played cd's to begin wih so i thought id try to work on it.. failure...

now if i wanted to place a aftermarket head unit on the Bose setup car.. what would i be looking at... would it be just a simple adapter buy and plug it up??? or is there alot more to it than that.. personaly ididnt like the stock unit..who needs casset..

or would i b better off finding annother head unit (stock)

personally id like to get something the same size and pop it in there that had a harddrive for mp3's and possible dvd playback as well.. im not really worried about gps but if it came extra cheap than why not??
any sugguestions

sorry for typos and spelling.. this is a one time hit it and quit it... i gotta go poop

basicly.. id like to put a different head unit in my car.. a sweet one.. but keep all the facotry speakers and current factory amps (for now)

 

^^ Since you want to keep everything stock (except the H/U that is broken), you should find a member who is selling a stock Bose H/U.

That is a much better solution that trying to change the OEM Bose H/U, and then dealing with PAC adapters so you can keep the remaing Bose components (amps, speakers, and SubW).

--Spike

 

the 2 wire connectors that plug into the factory bose head unit, can someone dirrect me to a diagram of what each of these wires are... i am going to try and rig up a "for now" stero in its place

 

You can remove the factory Bose deck and replace it with an aftermarket deck and you do NOT need a PAC adaptor. Just turn the speaker inputs of the harness adaptor to RCA's and thats that. You also need to turn the factory amplifier(s) on as well by using the blue wire on the harness. Cheap, effective and simple.