devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I've done some research and haven't found any conclusive answers. The best I've found is a glossary of what the materials are. I'm putting on my flame suit for this, but can someone explain the difference cone/surround materials to me? Not as in what they really are, but what the differences in sound are...My assumption is that the lighter materials will be tighter and hit harder as they can move faster. However, it seems like they also may not be as deep. This is just off my thought process, I could be totally wrong.

If anyone knows of any good reads for this, I'm welcome to that as well. I'm in the middle of shopping for a sub (looking for 1-10") and all the specs look almost the same except materials and airspace required...even between the $65 and $400 subs. So I'm confused, I feel like if I buy a $65 sub I'm buying crap, but if I pay more I'm still getting the same thing. To stop the hijacking of my own thread in the first post, help me out with the materials!!

davidv

iTrader: (2)

You will find a variety of materials from paper to materials with exotic names. A sub woofer capable of producing, for example, a 100 Hz signal, will sound like 100 Hz regardless of the material.

Quality speakers made from quality materials will get you high power capabilities with low distortion. Less expensive speakers made from generic materials will not.

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking at these 3 subs. Any recommendations?
Alpine SWR-1043D - 600w - Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Polk Audio SR104-DVC - 700w - ABS plastic
JVC Arsenal CS-AW8040 - 1000w - Kevlar Hemp-Fiber

duro78

iTrader: (6)

Your approaching this completely wrong. For what your using the subs for i doubt you have to worry about separating the cone doing 5k burps. I would still look for handmade subs opposed to mass produced units like all 3 of your above choices. IMO you need to do a lot more reading before you start shopping around and end up dissatisfied with your purchase. There are better subs out there for the price but more importantly what will you be using it for.

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

What are some good handmade subs? And I dont know how to pick a sub for different uses, as I mentioned all the specs are pretty much the same besides airspace and material, maybe hz range.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

One of the best manufacturers that I know of that are still hand made are AVI Loudspeakers out of Canada. Amazing kevlar subs. I had an SL-250 8" in a 4th order bandpass enclosure and it was one of the best subs i've ever owned. Quality was superior to pretty much anything out there today.

I've emailed them for a price list and they've been very responsive in the past. In your email just tell them you have no local dealers and they should offer a direct-buy option.

The AVI website (pretty poor):
http://www.avisound.com/content.htm

Their product line:
http://www.avisound.com/downloads.htm

U.S.A. distributor:
http://www.avi-usa.com/


Picking the proper sub for YOU takes some homework. One of the better sites to learn at is http://www.bcae1.com/ (use the menu on the right of the page).

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I guess I should have beena little more informative from the start...I thought I had it narrowed down to 3 but as always when I come on this forum, I get more information and change my mind about what I want.

I listen to mostly rock/metal, but the occasional rap so I do want that heavy thump but I need it to be tight for fast double bass etc thats why I want the 10"

I want to shatter windows...lol no I'd like enough that I don't have to crank it to fit in with the music. I put a 300w rms sub/amp in my girls focus (dont hate) and Id like a bit more than that. I was thinking 5-600 rms

My budget can flex a little bit, however the higher cost really has to be worth it. I'm not going to spend an extra 300 on a sub because it sounds one notch better ya know? I'd say 400 is good for the sub and amp. I planned on spending 150-200 on a box w shipping

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

Although you may be right about a 12" being better, a 10" is all that fits easily without floor modification. And I'm wanting to keep the understrut box idea. I'd prefer 2 10s over a 12 if anything.

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

I know this may sort of be against etiquette here...but I'm stuck. These are the subs in my price range, with the power I want. StreetOC and bigaudiofanatic, I did take your suggestions into consideration, but they were just too expensive for what they are.

These subs range from 500-800w rms. Kevlar to aluminum to abs plastic...So lost. I'm still up in the air about amps, but I do like the Alpine mrp-500. I'm only going to go with 1-10 for now and if I change my mind later, I'll change it. But I'm confident 500w rms should be enough in that little cab. Can you give me your recommendations with a reason why it's a yes or no sub? Thanks in advance.

Alpine SWR-1023D
JL Audio 10W3v3-2
Rockford Fosgate T110D2
JVC Arsenal CS-AW7020
Pioneer TS-W2502D2
Polk Audio SR104-DVC

sdZ33

iTrader: (39)

Have you looked into Kicker or Memphis?

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

I've heard those arent the best quality...no personal experience though

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

So based on the subs you listed, you are looking at spending up to $200 per sub. You listen mostly to rock/metal so you want a punchy sub, but the occasional rap listening demands it gets deep too.........

I owned ONE 10" Diamond D610 in a zenclosure box driven with 300 watts RMS in my Z and it was a fantastic sub. Aluminum cone, butyl surround, built like a tank. If you are going to do TWO......well I can't imagine you'd be disappointed with this particular sub. They come in dual 4ohm and dual 2ohm coil options so make sure to get the one that fits your needs. You may be able to find them a little cheaper if you search around.

Dual 2 Ohm:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p2701/D610...-Subwoofer.htm

Dual 4 Ohm:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p2702/D610...-Subwoofer.htm

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

The problem with just looking at the specs is that they're all damn near the same...1 hz lower, 1 more db sensitivity, etc etc. The only main difference I see is material which I would assume makes a huge difference in subs as I know it does with speakers.

duro78

iTrader: (6)

kicker sucks and memphis ehh its been awhile

check out caraudio.com

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

Are the JL 10W3v3's a good match for the Focals I got?

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

You can do better for the money

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

Such as?

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

well I picked up a w7 today. got a deal I couldnt turn down. I'm looking at the following:
alpine mrp-m1000,
Kenwood KAC-9105D,
Pioneer Stage 4 PRS-D1200M,

Leaning towards the Kenwood, way better Signal-Noise Ratio, good power, fan cooled, lower freq response.
Any suggestions/comments?