AndyB

I am considering using a SoundGate Line Output Converter (LOC 4.4) so I can replace the amps and speakers on the Blose stereo.

The Soundgate people suggested putting the LOC4.4 "right behind the radio, as close to the radio as you can".

I had originally planned on putting the converter in the trunk (where the stock amplifier is now). That would be much more convenient from a wiring and mounting point of view.

Does it really matter?

Since the Bose ouptuts a differential signal it should be fairly low noise even back at the trunk.

Has anyone done this with success? (or failure?)

murrman100

I've had great luck so far. No extra noise. It was easier and cheaper to put the converters close to the amps. Less monster cable to buy.

grutter

iTrader: (1)

I kept bose hu, used audiolink PD4 converter, with cablelink harness.
Mounted with velcro to large, flat area directly behind HU.
AudioLink is a 4 channel loc.

murrman100

It looks like you spent a few bucks on that install grutter.
I just wanted a temp fix until I replaced the "Blose" head unit.
Cost me $30.

AndyB

grutter, I just ran accross audio link and I was wondering about that converter. It looks sweet.

If I am reading their website correctly you can buy the cable and converter from them.
Unplug radio harness
Plug new adapter in to radio
Plug new adapter in to car's harness
Connect the PD4

And presto! You have line level outputs. Do the line out run in the stock harness? Or will I need to run RCA from the radio to the trunk myself?

Is it really that easy? Are you happy with the results?

Also, thanks for letting me know about the mounting position. That would have been my next question!

This sounds like a clean way to keep the stock HU and run new amps and speakers.

If you have any more pics or any more tips on doing this please post them. The documentation on the audiolink site is pretty poor, but the product looks good.

Thanks

AndyB

grutter

iTrader: (1)

Just that simple. The cablelink harness was pre-wired to the AudioLink converter terminal block, so I did exactly as you stated... uplug factory harness from HU, plug in cablelink adapter to harness and hu, plug connector to AudioLink adapter. You will need to run the RCA's directly from the AudioLink adapter to your amp, but if you have the HU out, you've already removed the center console etc, so it's no bid deal.

grutter

iTrader: (1)

With the diff output of the Bose HU, I wasn't aware of a "cheap" way out. Most low-cost line out converters are for speaker level ouputs. This would be all that's needed for the non-Bose HU, but I would be surprised if it worked well with our Blose "Premium" HU. I have no complaints with sound quality with the AudioLink converter and replacement amps & Speakers, with the original HU. Most posts on this forum indicate that the sound is still poor when attempting to retain factory HU, so I wanted to try to overcome the problems that I kept reading about here. I figured that if I didn't like the sound when I got done, the most I lost was the cost of the LOC (and the guy I bought it from agreed to take it back if it didn't work out). As it turned out, I'm very satisfied. Obviously the HU doesn't have all the features of an Alpine, for example, but I've now got plenty of range control, clear sound... and the cost of the LOC was still one of the least expensive components in my replacement system.

What did you use for LOC's with a Bose HU for $30 ??

murrman100

I can't remember the name of the converters. I first tried Good Guys and they wanted $20 a piece for them and I needed 3.
Then I went to Fry's and found them for $10 a piece.
I figured that I would find a after market HU to replace the Blose soon and if the LOC's sounded like crap I could take them back to Fry's.
I just wired into the speaker outputs from the Bose and hooked up the RCA's into the amps and adjusted the levels and that was it.
The sound from my system is not up to an Alpine unit but its a heck of a lot better than stock.

AndyB

Excellent!

And you are right, once I got the HU out, it is pretty trivial to run RCAs to the amp. I am hoping to stuff the amp in under the passenger side glove box.

I am very glad to hear you like the sound of your setup. I think I am going to do the same kind of thing.
Bose HU --> AudioLink LOC --> 4 ch amp


This is very good news. Thanks.

AndyB

PS - What settings are you using on the AudioLink converter?

I would like to get them right the first time since getting to the adjustments will be a PITA.

grutter

iTrader: (1)

I hooked everything up and set levels before putting everything back together. I suggest you do the same. I played with the gain settings, but to my calibrated eardrum, I thought that 0db sounded best as higher settings seemed to introduce distortion. Here's a close-up of how I set it up. You don't really need a lot of gain here, as you still should have plenty of gain control on each channel on your 4-channel amp.

AndyB

Cool thanks.

Yeah, I should hook it up before I put it back together.

I am really getting psyched for this setup. I can keep the stock HU and get some decent sound! woohoo!

You're not going to the CT get together this weekend are you? I would love to hear your setup.


AndyB

grutter

iTrader: (1)

That's the difference... you weren't hooking to the differential outputs of the Bose HU... you were leaving the factory Bose amps in place, and using the speaker level outputs as inputs to your LOC.

The problem with that approach is the best sound you could possibly achieve is only to amplify the poor sound quality from the Bose amps.

Even by replacing the speakers, you're still only amplifying what you have as an input signal. So sound might be 'better', but could never be good. And you'll never get the range control because the Bose amps just don't seem to handle the highs or lows..

You also still have the problem with the microphone input to the Bose amps trying to adjust the base levels based on interior sound levels.

If you've been following this forum, you should be aware that the biggest problem with the Bose system IS the amps... So.. my solution was to gut everything except the HU, and go from there. If I didn't like the sound, I just had to finish the system by replacing the HU. But as it turned out, it sounds pretty good !

Good luck with your system.

AndyB

I have read several places that the "Bose EQ" (ie the patented Bose sound mangling technology) is in the amps. The head unit is pretty normal except for the differential ouptuts.

grutter

iTrader: (1)

AndyB,
Was wondering how far you've gotten with your system and how it sounds. Please post your results.

AndyB

I would characterize my system as being somewhere between "idle fantasy" and "design phase".

This weekend at the CT Dyno Day I dropped about $1K (borla + clear bra) so the stereo may wait a bit. (for xmas bonus and Spring install)

(Plus I just sent the check to the seller for my new rims. I can;t help myself I think. )

My stereo plan so far is
AudioLink Line output converter behind head unit
Run RCAs to an amp under the glove box
BassLink in the stock location (down firing)
Infinity speakers in doors and rear (kappa or reference)
Amp is undecided, leaning towards Alpine 4X50 RMS area

My reasoning is this:
On a roadster I like keeping the stock head unit for security and appearance
I like the in-dash 6-CD changer
Blose does not make the head unit
The blose ruin-your-music EQ is in the blose amps
All stock systems need better speakers
The blose free air sub sucks donkey (patented bose 1-note bass)

I have talked to a couple of people with this type of setup (AudioLink to new amps and speakers) and they are pretty happy with the sound. It won't be a "show system" but it should be good enough for what I want. I just want a flatter frequency response and a little more oomf.

When I do it (probably in the Spring since I have no garage) I will take pics and post them if anyone is still interested.

AndyB

frankmusic

iTrader: (1)

AndyB,

When you finally do your install, I would be extremely interested in seeing some of the captured images of your experience. I recently purchased the BasssLink X subwoofer that I'd love to install sometime with my two weeks off in December '03. During that time, I also plan on buying the appropriate 6.5" speakers for the front and rear.

I believe that was being a bit over anxious about getting this particualr upgrade accomplished. After reading these recent posts, I'm not so sure that I would want to arbitrarily tap into the existing rear speakers for a quick- fix install. Applying the old Guessing Game regarding the "How's" and the "Where's" could produce very regrettable results. YIKES!



___________________________________

'03 350Z - Silverstone - Touring - 6spd MT
Build Date: 05/03
Side Air Bag Curtains
JDM Interior Foot Well Lights
NISMO Seatbelt Pads
350Z Grounding Kit
Aluminum Billet Dip Stick
NISMO Oil Filler & Radiator Caps
Colgan Side Mirror Bras
Colgan 2 Piece Nose Bra (necessary)*
Nissan OEM Aero Package
Chrome Front Grille w/Amber LED Directionals
LED Amber Sidemarkers (StrictlyZ)
LED Amber "Z" Fender Emblems
Courtesy Parts "Z" Center Wheel Caps
Courtesy Parts "Z" Wheel Locks
Courtesy Parts "Z" Valve Stem Caps
Carbon Fiber "Z" Front & Rear Emblems
350Z Rear License Plate Frame
JDM Altezza Antenna - "Shorty"
Front Zee-Bracket License Plate Holder
Bose Stereo with 28060-CE400 Amp!!! (TBD)

murrman100

Its only a temp fix until I replace the Bose.
It works just fine.

lascala26

iTrader: (2)

Where is the best place to buy this converter online? I live on the east coast and our shops aren't familiar with this. Thanks!

grutter

iTrader: (1)

I purchased online at
www.linkmeup.com/pd4.htm

I dealt with "Larry Rich” <lrich@arelectronics.com>