Sportsfan811

iTrader: (2)

Right now I have factory everything except a pioneer in dash unit and I want to know if upgrading the speakers is worth it and a noticeable difference? Also, what speakers sound best for the z's setup I want it to be really clear with some bass, but i'm not looking to get subs in the back just change the factory speakers

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

Just to be clear, you are looking to replace the stock speakers and add an amp? Or are you foregoing the amp and simply running the speakers off the headunit?

Sportsfan811

iTrader: (2)

Was thinking of just speakers

Spike100

^^ If it's just the speakers you want to replace, I suggest coaxials that cost <$200 for the pair. This is a good choice since you are using the internal amp in your H/U.

For better sound, you need an external amp teamed with some decent component speakers.

--Spike

idkorcare

Doing just speakers you are not really going to get any more bass. When I first started on my system I changed the rears amped them and the front stock bose speakers. They really didnt sound that bad after I put an aftermarket amp on them and the difference was minimal after I swapped them for some Alpine Type R componets.

I will say that the stock Bose system sounded horrible, it didnt sound anywhere as good as my G35's Bose system.

sunburst350z

iTrader: (1)

There's almost no way you're going to get great clear highs with good bass out of coaxial speakers. Its pretty much a comprimise between either good highs or ok lows but not both. I would strongly suggest you buy an external amp with a 2 channels (if just for the front speakers) or 4 channel(for front and rear).If you want great highs with decent lows , you're going to have to invest on some 6.5" component speakers . These come with a tweeter you can replace the factor one with and a 6.5" mid driver with larger voice coil and heavy magnet and motor structure that will outperform the stock ones, and will come with a crossover that will seperate the frequencys so that only highs go to the tweeters and lows-mids to the mid drivers.
Just shop around and look for something within your price range just make sure and match the RMS power ratings of your speakers with the amp youre going to use if you go that route


-Steve

ZS14RR

iTrader: (30)

well with what ever you go with no matter how much you spend the interior will rattle like a motherfugger.

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

I've got one of the most extensive audio builds on this board if not the most extensive and my interior does not rattle. The same thing goes for the install we have in Adam's car which was done by the same installer. Why you would make such a general and uninformed statement is beyond me.

jamesdean

iTrader: (1)

Granted my system is no where near yours but but very solid w/ Hertz comp in the doors and a JL 10w3 in a under the strut box w/ a JL XD 6/600 running the system. Very solid lows crystal clear highs and not even a hint of a rattle anywhere and I have a 04 w/ 50k on it.

To the poster my car had a Pioneer Nav HU when I bought it and Memphis audio Coax 6.5's in the front and rear..sounded better than the crap bose and better highs imo but didnt have much volume and the lows were weak. I have less than a 1000.00 in my system now and it bothers my ears to turn it up

350zspl

iTrader: (3)

changing the speakers won't make a very big change unless your gonna amp them

if your gonna run them off head unit power than 15-20 watts per speaker won't really drive an aftermarket driver effectively

Spike100

Reading through this thread and the replies, it’s obvious we are missing the OP’s intention. He states that he only wants to replace the speakers. Certainly an external amp with component speakers will sound best, but respecting someone’s budget may prohibit the additional expense.

Here are a couple of very good sounding coaxial speakers that work well with the internal amp in the OP’s H/U (I pulled the examples from www.crutchfield so the links may not work a long time after today’s date):

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086032...si.html?tp=105

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB65...1s.html?tp=105

These speakers won’t provide the best sound, but they are designed for the power delivered by an H/U’s internal amp. And, they sound much better than the stock Clarion or Bose front door speakers.

Here is the stock Clarion front door midrange component:



Notice the tiny magnet, the cheap paper cone, and the power limit of 40 watts. It’s more or less a piece of junk. The coaxial speakers I list above sound much better.

When someone does not want to spend a lot of $$’s and is not installing an external amp, coaxial speakers are a good choice.

--Spike

Sportsfan811

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks guys I have a pretty good idea on what I want to do now

Spike100

^^ … I will say I enjoy reading your replies/postings for the accuracy and “to the point” non-foolery.

Apparently ZS14 has a problem installing high-end CES equipment. He isn’t the only one suffering from this problem. The Z has lots of compartments and positions for components, and it’s not always easy to get it right.

Poor installations do suffer from the problems that ZS14 describes, and apparently ZS14 is not familiar with the correct ways to do this. It took me awhile and some experimentation to get this figured out and make good installs. There is lots of advice here, on my350z.com. If ZS14 searches here, I'm sure he will get the information he needs to avoid the problems he has now.

--Spike

Spike100

Just curious... What is it that you plan doing?

Just add speakers?... Add an amp?... What?

--Spike

Sportsfan811

iTrader: (2)

speakers, get an amp for them since you guys say it doesn't really make a difference w/o one, then decide if I want to go the sub route. Where do you guys buy those boxes that go under the strut? I've seen them on ebay

AlT

Hey Sportsfan,

If you are going to use AVH3200BT, I would suggest you also buy or borrow the microphone (~$20) to enable the built in Auto Eq. It will help compensate for the structural limitations of the interior. This is especially true if you are not going to be relocating the tweeters or installing Pods or cutting out the front speaker grill.

I have component Alpine SPR-17 speakers (crossover set to -7db) in the front and coaxial CDT-6EX in the rear. I also added a Infinity Basslink in the compartment behind the seat. The Headunit will drive the front speakers as loud as I think you can stand, but for extra headroom, an amp would not hurt. I added a Pioneer GM-D9500f for this very reason.

Imho the Auto Eq sets up the soundstage, definitely biased toward the front with the rear speaker used as fill. The Auto Eq can still be modified to be customized or with a preset EQ settings. The Microphone placement makes a world of difference, it's worth every penny.

Sportsfan811

iTrader: (2)

ok i'll look into it

Spike100

Hi AlT,

I certainly do not want to highjack Sportsfan811’s thread, but I read your message where you state having an Infinity BassLink. I’ve been considering this component because I need all the rear cargo space in my Z (so, I do not want to put a SubW under the strut or use the rear corners).

Another SubW solution (that does not rob cargo space and is available from one of our sponsors) I am considering:

http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...0&cat=8&page=1


When I Google “Nissan - 350Z 13TW5 GLOVE BOX LOADED” (linked above) from Wicked C.A.S., I see no complaints whatsoever.

When I Google” Infinity BassLink,” I see many complaints (poor sound, premature failure, warranty issues, etc.).


Obviously the Wicked C.A.S. solution is considerably more expensive than the Infinity BassLin product, so that might drive a purchase-decision. However, some people prefer better sound and are willing to pay more. The real measure is: How much more to pay vs. how much more quality do you gain?

Here are my questions to you:

1. Do you consider the Infinity BassLink as a reliable product?
   
   
2. Are you satisfied with the sound you get from the Infinity BassLink?

If you are concerned about jacking the OP’s thread, just send a PM to me. I really do not think Sportsfan811 will object to this minor intrusion on his thread. Your reply is very useful. Most modern recordings are designed for a listening environment that includes a SubW.

Thanks for participating on my350z.com,

--Spike

AlT

Hi Spike,

As you've indicated, I certaintly don't want to hi-jack the thread , but I still think it's semi on track. With that said, I'll give my opinion on the Basslink.

I'm more than satisfied with the performance, it won't win any SPL contest, but it certainly adds to the SQ. Dependant on the adjustments it can really make the rearview dance, but that too much bass for me and I think it's over driving the Basslink.

I've had it in for the past 3-4 months and have had no problems. I think that some people have problems from the fact that their trying to get the same output from a separate enclosure and amp as in the WickedCAS. It will not do that. It certainly has enough thump for me. I brought it from ebay for ~$150. Definitely a cheaper stealth option.

I put in the Eagles "Hell Freezes Over" DVD and it sounds great!!!!

Spike100

^^ Thanks so much for your response… I appreciate your comments.

I’m pretty much with your preferences. I’m looking for low frequency output since most modern recording provide this, but I don’t need a component that loosens the window in my hatch. I don’t want or need a big thump; I only want to hear the lows from modern recordings.

I’ve been looking at the BaseLink, but some reports describe failure soon after the 12 month warranty expires. It seems that the close proximity of the built-in amp to the speaker can result in failure. I suspect that the majority of these problems result from poor mounting (that allows disproportionate vibration) and excessive volume.

I really like Infinity products. I’ve been using a 4-channel Infinity amp for 6 years now, and have never experienced any problem with the device. I put Infinity coaxials in my rear slots; and although I have them faded to very low, they sound great.

--Spike