Hey guys, i'm in the process of piecing together and installing my first sound system.

I bought a used JL audio Stealthbox from a member and it comes with two 10w3v3 4ohm wired in series at 4 ohms. The box itself has only one [+ -] terminal gate to hook up to an amp.

each sub is rated at 150 rms and 300 watt max.

Heres the problem, I wanted to run a small sub so I purchased a 4-ch 450watt rockford fosgate but now i dont think I can power the stealthbox.

amp is rated at 110w rms x 4 (2 ohms) 60x4 rms 4 ohms

if I bridge two channels to power the stealthbox and the other two channels to power my front speakers would I only be pushing 120 watts to the stealthbox and 220 watts to the my front infinity kappas rated at 2 ohms?

would this power configuration be too weak for the stealthbox?

Should I have another pos/neg terminal gate custom added to the fiberglass box at a local audio shop. That way I can run my amp with two mono bridged outputting 120watt rms per sub. Then buy a entry level 2-ch amp for my fronts speakers?

I didn't really want to take away from the original design of the stealthbox and also how hard would it be to cut and add another pos/neg terminal gate?

Would i be better off with a class D mono amp outputting 600watt rms?

any feedback would help as this is my first attempt at setting up a entry level system

 

my sub box only has the +/- (only one) the subs are run in parrell and not separate. just get a amp that can do 400ish rms and then it will be split to both subs(200rmsX2).

 

yeah that was another option. I guess what also in your opinion would be the most cost effective way of powering the stealthbox.

would adding another -+ terminal in the back of the box be the cheapest way to better utilize the amp i already have? Then I could have the amp in 2 - bridged mono setup where each sub gets its own 120watt rms.

The JL website says the 10w3 v2 in 4ohm is optimum at 150watt rms 300 max.

thanks.

 

Is the amp 2ohm stable in bridged mode? If so it should be a beast. You could bridge the rear channels mono for your subs and run the 2 front channels in stereo.

Rockford always underrates their amps. Check the birthsheet that came with your amp to see what it benched at It won't be a problem pushing those subs so long as that amp will take 2ohms bridged.

 

I just checked the user manual and it wont accept 2 ohms in bridge mode only 4 ohms.

If i bridge the rears it would pump out 225w at 4 ohm rms for both subs. So each sub would only see 112w each. Is 112w enough per sub?

If i want to feed each woofer a mono bridge i'd have to have my fiberglass enclosure custom fitted with another (+-) terminal in the back. I wonder what that would cost.

 

Sorry, mis-read your post.

4 channel amps as you know are typically Class A/B, they're not made to power subwoofers and are generally less efficient than a Class D mono amp. With that being said, you shouldn't have a problem with light-dimming etc. @ around 400w RMS.

I had a Rockford Fosgate P300.1 (rated @ 300w RMS) which is a Class A/B amp and I ran 2 10"s pretty easily. The birthsheet rated it @ around 400W RMS. RF underrates all of their amps so I would imagine you would be okay with getting enough power to your subs, as long as you can bridge power to each sub.

In your situation I would buy a good Class D amp, use your Class A/B for your fronts, being that you'll need to buy another amp regardless & it would make more sense to do that setup.

With 2 4ohm SVC subs you can present a 2ohm load to a mono amp, and any RF amp 300w + will rock the hell out of those subs. Try the P-300.1 or P-400.1, and expect to get an amp that's 50-100w more powerful than you paid for.

Oh, and if you do decide to run 2 separate leads just pull the speakers out and run both sets of wires through the same speaker terminal. Drill the hole a little larger if need be.