Notices
Audio & Video 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics

Amplifier Turn On Input

Old Nov 23, 2010 | 05:46 AM
  #1  
cnp112's Avatar
cnp112
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: NW Chicago Suburb
Default Amplifier Turn On Input

I am a noob in the car audio world...looking for some guidance / info as I will be upgrading my audio system in a 2007 350z within the next couple weeks...

I will be using the stock front speaker wire inputs as HIGH level inputs to a 5 channel amplifier and was wondering if I absolutely need to connect the Turn On Lead into the amplifier as well. What would happen if I dont connect the turn on lead...would the amp turn on as the car turns on or would it turn on when the radio turns on...thanks
Reply
Old Nov 23, 2010 | 07:49 AM
  #2  
gvulakh's Avatar
gvulakh
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Default

If you do not connect the turn on lead to the amp it will not turn on, ever.

I highly suggest an aftermarket head unit as your first audio mod. It will make a huge difference. If your 07 is a base model(exactly what I have) the radio just plain blows.

Here's my audio setup for reference:

Alpine 9833(old school 2003 vintage sound quality head unit)
purchased on ebay for $87 shipped. I have had at least 10 different head units and this one is the best I have ever had in terms of sound quality and sound shaping ability. WARNING: THE PARAMETRIC EQ AND CROSSOVERS BUILT IN TO THIS HEAD UNIT IS NOT FOR NOOBS.

Polk/momo 6.5" Component set(Discontinued but comparable to Polk's newer db components)found on craigslist brand new in box paid $100. Pretty good sound quality and these can handle loads of power. I have them hooked up to a four channel amp. Each channel is dedicated to it's own woofer/tweeter.

Alpine mrp-f300 4 channel(50x4watts rms@4ohms)Another craigslist find for $100 never used in new packaging never opened. Powers the Polk components with a dedicated channel for each woofer/tweeter.

Alpine PDX 1.600 Subwoofer Amp(600x1watts rms@2 or 4ohms)Yet another craigslist find for $100 used with a few scratches on the body but has been working fine for months. Hands down the best amp I ever owned. Very powerful and clean. Read reviews on this and get it!

Alpine Type R 10 inch Subwoofer(Can hanle 500watts rms)I have this mounted in a below the strut bar rear enclosure that I feel is a liitle small for this sub. Stole this guy off craigslist for $20! No issues with it and I've had it for 8 months.

This setup is after countless head units. My door panels have been off about 4-5 times. Amps are in the glove box behind the passenger seat. I have switched sub amps and went back and forth on the amp for mids and highs. Had a Alpine Type E sub first time around, not enough bass........

Moral of the story is:

Figure out what you want from your audio system. Create a budget. PM me if you like.

Start with a head unit is the first thing though.

Sorry for my longwinded reply, but I thought you should know some of these things.

Gene
Reply
Old Nov 23, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #3  
cnp112's Avatar
cnp112
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: NW Chicago Suburb
Default

Originally Posted by gvulakh
If you do not connect the turn on lead to the amp it will not turn on, ever.

I highly suggest an aftermarket head unit as your first audio mod. It will make a huge difference. If your 07 is a base model(exactly what I have) the radio just plain blows.

Here's my audio setup for reference:

Alpine 9833(old school 2003 vintage sound quality head unit)
purchased on ebay for $87 shipped. I have had at least 10 different head units and this one is the best I have ever had in terms of sound quality and sound shaping ability. WARNING: THE PARAMETRIC EQ AND CROSSOVERS BUILT IN TO THIS HEAD UNIT IS NOT FOR NOOBS.

Polk/momo 6.5" Component set(Discontinued but comparable to Polk's newer db components)found on craigslist brand new in box paid $100. Pretty good sound quality and these can handle loads of power. I have them hooked up to a four channel amp. Each channel is dedicated to it's own woofer/tweeter.

Alpine mrp-f300 4 channel(50x4watts rms@4ohms)Another craigslist find for $100 never used in new packaging never opened. Powers the Polk components with a dedicated channel for each woofer/tweeter.

Alpine PDX 1.600 Subwoofer Amp(600x1watts rms@2 or 4ohms)Yet another craigslist find for $100 used with a few scratches on the body but has been working fine for months. Hands down the best amp I ever owned. Very powerful and clean. Read reviews on this and get it!

Alpine Type R 10 inch Subwoofer(Can hanle 500watts rms)I have this mounted in a below the strut bar rear enclosure that I feel is a liitle small for this sub. Stole this guy off craigslist for $20! No issues with it and I've had it for 8 months.

This setup is after countless head units. My door panels have been off about 4-5 times. Amps are in the glove box behind the passenger seat. I have switched sub amps and went back and forth on the amp for mids and highs. Had a Alpine Type E sub first time around, not enough bass........

Moral of the story is:

Figure out what you want from your audio system. Create a budget. PM me if you like.

Start with a head unit is the first thing though.

Sorry for my longwinded reply, but I thought you should know some of these things.

Gene
thanks...i really do want to change out the head unit but for numerous reasons ( wife / resale / my first DIY / extreme noob in the world of car audio )...i cant at the moment...maybe if I can convince the wife and feel more comfortable after this install...it may be a possibility...

nice setup...good deals man...my future setup will be the following...

1. KEEP the stock head unit

2. Replace the front components with Diamond Audio D363.5

3. Use the front speaker wire inputs as HIGH level inputs to a 5 channel amplifier (SoundStream RUB5.800 -- I jumped the gun on the amp before I realized that changing out the rears will not play as much of an impact as far as a sound stage is concerned...also I imagine it will make for a clearer sound - because right now the sound bounces off the headrest to the rear then comes back to the front adding a time delay between the front spkrs and rear spkrs - i could be wrong though).

4. Use the amplifier to power the front components and a 10" Infinity 1060w in the trunk.

5. Custom box which fits under the strut bar...almost exact volume as the ideal recommended sealed volume for the sub.

Do I have any other options for the TURN ON LEAD without having to get behind the head unit and tear apart the dash...thanks...
Reply
Old Nov 23, 2010 | 09:14 AM
  #4  
gvulakh's Avatar
gvulakh
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Default

pm'ed you.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
loudtoyz
Engine & Drivetrain
8
Apr 6, 2023 04:52 AM
XM 1
Engine & Drivetrain
29
Jul 10, 2022 07:44 AM
sherm
Engine & Drivetrain
15
Apr 11, 2020 05:21 PM
Depravity
Brakes & Suspension
14
Oct 1, 2015 04:49 PM
hulkout
Tuning
1
Sep 30, 2015 12:33 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:01 AM.