problem with system
05-24-2011 | 05:37 AM
#1
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From: cape coral
problem with system
I had my system installed about a month ago, he tuned everything and its running off the stock HU. However, lately at least 5 instances, it has gone into protection mode when playing for a while. I have the HU set at -2 for BASS so i kno im not running it to high. And the system it self is running at 2 OHMS. I did not take out the bose 10" subwoofer, so i am not sure if its sucking to much power or increasing the power to the amp??? If anyone can help me out please give me your thoughts. The audio system near me says they will charge me 70 dollars to look n fix it, but would rather spend my money on other things.
05-24-2011 | 06:09 AM
#2
70 bucks to fix this is not bad..
it could be a ton of different things.. and profesional diagnosis is beneficial.
Your amp is going into theremal due to current draw and heat.. which could be too high an impedance load on the amp, or bad wiring causing voltage drop. Or a bad sub ( nearing a dead short will cause the amp to shut down.
having the HU set to -2 on bass is NOT a guarantee you are not in a situation where you are running it too hard,,, it doesnt work that way.
Id take it in and say " you fix it"...
it could be a ton of different things.. and profesional diagnosis is beneficial.
Your amp is going into theremal due to current draw and heat.. which could be too high an impedance load on the amp, or bad wiring causing voltage drop. Or a bad sub ( nearing a dead short will cause the amp to shut down.
having the HU set to -2 on bass is NOT a guarantee you are not in a situation where you are running it too hard,,, it doesnt work that way.
Id take it in and say " you fix it"...
05-24-2011 | 06:11 AM
#3
wait.. i re read.. you didnt even mention what items you had installed..
we need details if we are gna help. BTW running anything off the stock hu is starting w the garbage in/garbage out principle.. not gonna be happy w the results unless you really arent into audio much.
we need details if we are gna help. BTW running anything off the stock hu is starting w the garbage in/garbage out principle.. not gonna be happy w the results unless you really arent into audio much.
05-24-2011 | 06:20 AM
#5
hmm.. well 1500 watts is alot.. if its actually 1500 watts you had better have some HUGE wire, like 2 gauge or larger and confidently GREAT grounds w bared metal at the bolt.
Again, its either this or its the impedance of the subs and how they are wired to the amp.. find out what the amp is intended for in terms of load and then find out what your subs are for impedance.. then check to see how they are wired to the amp.. you can google images of paralelled or seried subwoofers.
Again, its either this or its the impedance of the subs and how they are wired to the amp.. find out what the amp is intended for in terms of load and then find out what your subs are for impedance.. then check to see how they are wired to the amp.. you can google images of paralelled or seried subwoofers.
05-24-2011 | 06:48 AM
#6
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From: cape coral
Well I have it wired at 2 ohms so it uses around 550 I believe so that's 1100 however I wanted to run it at 1 ohm and my amp is 1 ohm stable so it is possible. If not having 2 gauge or higher wire is a great deal that may be it the man who installed it put on 4 gauge saying it doesn't matter
05-24-2011 | 06:56 AM
#7
4 gauge is fine. What do you mean you still have the Bose sub installed? Is it some how coonnected to your aftermarket amp? Or are you running the stock amp and the aftermarket? Are you sure your subs are wired correctly? Are you sure the amp is 2 ohm MONO stable?
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05-24-2011 | 06:56 AM
#8
thatd be your problem right there. 4 gauge? oh dear....with an unregulted powersupply amp, especially a large one, running a low imedance load..off the stock deck none the less haha.. and in a a car w a 100 amp alternator..HUGE voltage drop w 4 gauge wire. Seen it one million and 1 times.
First rule of car audio..
friends dont let friends do car audio.
Very popular shop term.
The voltage draw you have w that kind of amp , power supply and impedance demand is surely astronomical.. i bet at peak it pulls more than your alternator even puts out, and then theres running the car, headlights, fans etc.. youre looking at replacing an alternator soon at that pace.. when your amp thermals, look at your voltage.. i bet your flat at 12 volts.. thats not good my man.
You can only go so large w amps in the Z, even w regulated power supplies.. which im alsmot positive your amp is NOT.. i stick w Alpines etc.. , i run 2 gauge wire, and a 10 farad stinger capacitor bank. And my alternator just died at 100k miles finally yesterday.
If you want to run over 1k watts peak, you need larger wire and are really looking at having to do a HO alternator.. period.. theres no way to make the power without it.. and if you run the amps w out the alternaotr, your stock one will try until it does.
I work hard for my cash too man.. SPEND THE 70 BUCKS.. take it to the shop.
It will be money well spent.
First rule of car audio..
friends dont let friends do car audio.
Very popular shop term.
The voltage draw you have w that kind of amp , power supply and impedance demand is surely astronomical.. i bet at peak it pulls more than your alternator even puts out, and then theres running the car, headlights, fans etc.. youre looking at replacing an alternator soon at that pace.. when your amp thermals, look at your voltage.. i bet your flat at 12 volts.. thats not good my man.
You can only go so large w amps in the Z, even w regulated power supplies.. which im alsmot positive your amp is NOT.. i stick w Alpines etc.. , i run 2 gauge wire, and a 10 farad stinger capacitor bank. And my alternator just died at 100k miles finally yesterday.
If you want to run over 1k watts peak, you need larger wire and are really looking at having to do a HO alternator.. period.. theres no way to make the power without it.. and if you run the amps w out the alternaotr, your stock one will try until it does.
I work hard for my cash too man.. SPEND THE 70 BUCKS.. take it to the shop.
It will be money well spent.
Last edited by bmccann101; 05-24-2011 at 06:59 AM.
05-24-2011 | 07:00 AM
#9
That 1500 W crunch is prob rated at max, not RMS.
yes the made / model of hte amp is important ... only for judging whether it is a "True" 1000 watts... if it IS and your'e going to run it in a manner that uses that true 1000 watts rms, then stictly by numbers you'll need 4 gauge which supports up to 75A loads....
1000 w rms efficient class D amps will draw normally 75-ish amps of current. class AB amps which are less efficient will draw more, in which case you'll need to bump up to 2 gauge... getting to the point I thinkyou should use 2 gauge anyway because 4 would be the absolute BARE *** minimum and only if it was a fairly efficient D. So go with 2 gauge, it can handle up to a 150A load.
0/1 will support to up 300 A loads.
as far as which to use --- well... josh has a good point about size and if you're gonna add anything to your system later, u might want to take that into consideration. However, you've also got to think about cost. Retail on 0/1 is 6 dollars a foot. Retail on 2 gauge is 3 dollars a foot, half the cost of 0/1. when you're needing roughly 25 feet of wire, it makes a difference.
far as fuse -- if its 1000 watts rms class D, I'd use an 85A fuse.
1kw inefficient D / AB, go with 100A
if its something like a Rockford bd1001 or an mtx 81000d or other amps like that that "say" they're 1000w but actually do 300 - 500 over that rating at 14.4 ---> 135 - 150A fuse, and for those, 2 gauge is the recc.
1000 w rms efficient class D amps will draw normally 75-ish amps of current. class AB amps which are less efficient will draw more, in which case you'll need to bump up to 2 gauge... getting to the point I thinkyou should use 2 gauge anyway because 4 would be the absolute BARE *** minimum and only if it was a fairly efficient D. So go with 2 gauge, it can handle up to a 150A load.
0/1 will support to up 300 A loads.
as far as which to use --- well... josh has a good point about size and if you're gonna add anything to your system later, u might want to take that into consideration. However, you've also got to think about cost. Retail on 0/1 is 6 dollars a foot. Retail on 2 gauge is 3 dollars a foot, half the cost of 0/1. when you're needing roughly 25 feet of wire, it makes a difference.
far as fuse -- if its 1000 watts rms class D, I'd use an 85A fuse.
1kw inefficient D / AB, go with 100A
if its something like a Rockford bd1001 or an mtx 81000d or other amps like that that "say" they're 1000w but actually do 300 - 500 over that rating at 14.4 ---> 135 - 150A fuse, and for those, 2 gauge is the recc.
05-24-2011 | 07:08 AM
#10
haha.. whoa.. yes.. indeed..Phreak.. i missed a very key part of the OP.. CRUNCH.
I had Lanzar in my mind....old school unregulated power supply amps.. Crunch is not making anywhere near 1500 watts... and i bet the current draw is still sick tho.
I can see why you dont want to spend 70 to fix it.. and i recant my claim to take it in.. theres no fixing a crunch amp my man. Save up, buy some real stuff, ebay is cheap, buy an ALPINE and be done.
heres the deal man.. you have a terrible amp. Sorry. But that is your problem.
They are 100 bucks brand new.
You are running it off the stock head unit..
I am now running away from this thread.
I had Lanzar in my mind....old school unregulated power supply amps.. Crunch is not making anywhere near 1500 watts... and i bet the current draw is still sick tho.
I can see why you dont want to spend 70 to fix it.. and i recant my claim to take it in.. theres no fixing a crunch amp my man. Save up, buy some real stuff, ebay is cheap, buy an ALPINE and be done.
heres the deal man.. you have a terrible amp. Sorry. But that is your problem.
They are 100 bucks brand new.
You are running it off the stock head unit..
I am now running away from this thread.
05-24-2011 | 07:08 AM
#11
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From: cape coral
Hmmm really no one told me about this?? So how long running the system above 1000k watts will I get out of my alternator?? What is an HO alternator?? And if I bought a second battery would this help out at all? I am going to get 2 gauge wire today n see if that fixes it. Should I also disable stock amp n sub??
05-24-2011 | 07:20 AM
#12
Hmmm really no one told me about this?? So how long running the system above 1000k watts will I get out of my alternator?? What is an HO alternator?? And if I bought a second battery would this help out at all? I am going to get 2 gauge wire today n see if that fixes it. Should I also disable stock amp n sub??
please get a professional ( not friend ).
or atleast re-search.
The setup you have is fubar specially if you have stock headunit and bose still hooked up.
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