tachometer wire location??
07-29-2011, 09:43 PM
#1
tachometer wire location??
Alright guys,
i have been asking for step by step installation for st800 but no one done it yet. I just install everything on my car except this wire. they ask me to connect it to Tachometer wire. I did my search and this is what i got: Tachometer NOT white/blue or black ac any ignition coil . What does this mean? so basically the wire is not the white/blue wire and not black ac (what does ac stand for? air condition? alternate current?) i can connect to any ignition coil according to the last three words of that sentence. I dont know where is the ignition coils. One last thing. How do you wire aftermaker alarm speaker to your car? I mean i couldnot find any holes for the wire to go through the fire wall and the engine. I heard people drilling holes on their cars but i dont like drilling holes on my. Let me know. Thank you. I got everything and only need this to be done. After that i wil be posting the diy guide up. Thanks.
i have been asking for step by step installation for st800 but no one done it yet. I just install everything on my car except this wire. they ask me to connect it to Tachometer wire. I did my search and this is what i got: Tachometer NOT white/blue or black ac any ignition coil . What does this mean? so basically the wire is not the white/blue wire and not black ac (what does ac stand for? air condition? alternate current?) i can connect to any ignition coil according to the last three words of that sentence. I dont know where is the ignition coils. One last thing. How do you wire aftermaker alarm speaker to your car? I mean i couldnot find any holes for the wire to go through the fire wall and the engine. I heard people drilling holes on their cars but i dont like drilling holes on my. Let me know. Thank you. I got everything and only need this to be done. After that i wil be posting the diy guide up. Thanks.
08-02-2011, 08:18 PM
#3
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Sounds like it is a little late, but the ECU is under the passenger dash board - no need to run the wires in the engine compartment. I, personally, would use a fuel injector as it is a cleaner signal then an ignition coil. You would have to check the service manual for the wire colors and pick one of the (-) trigger wires.
The AC represents Alternate Current which isn't totally true - it's a pulsing DC voltage. The current flow never actually alternate like it does in a true AC current. For years I have wondered why Directed claims pulsing DC signals are AC. It probably has to do with the fact that they recommend reading the signals with a volt meter set to AC voltage which may work, but gives no meaningful values. A much better way to verify is to use a volt meter that reads frequency and measure that.
The AC represents Alternate Current which isn't totally true - it's a pulsing DC voltage. The current flow never actually alternate like it does in a true AC current. For years I have wondered why Directed claims pulsing DC signals are AC. It probably has to do with the fact that they recommend reading the signals with a volt meter set to AC voltage which may work, but gives no meaningful values. A much better way to verify is to use a volt meter that reads frequency and measure that.
08-22-2011, 06:59 AM
#4
Sounds like it is a little late, but the ECU is under the passenger dash board - no need to run the wires in the engine compartment. I, personally, would use a fuel injector as it is a cleaner signal then an ignition coil. You would have to check the service manual for the wire colors and pick one of the (-) trigger wires.
The AC represents Alternate Current which isn't totally true - it's a pulsing DC voltage. The current flow never actually alternate like it does in a true AC current. For years I have wondered why Directed claims pulsing DC signals are AC. It probably has to do with the fact that they recommend reading the signals with a volt meter set to AC voltage which may work, but gives no meaningful values. A much better way to verify is to use a volt meter that reads frequency and measure that.
The AC represents Alternate Current which isn't totally true - it's a pulsing DC voltage. The current flow never actually alternate like it does in a true AC current. For years I have wondered why Directed claims pulsing DC signals are AC. It probably has to do with the fact that they recommend reading the signals with a volt meter set to AC voltage which may work, but gives no meaningful values. A much better way to verify is to use a volt meter that reads frequency and measure that.
08-22-2011, 02:35 PM
#5
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The tach wire is going to be any wire that is NOT either black OR white/blue. The only Z I've ever done remote start on was an '06, and the wire was yellow/red. Located at the ignition coil.
1) Disconnect positive battery cable
2) Connect amp meter between battery and cable
3) Start pulling fuses until parasitic draw is gone
4) Start adding fuses back, starting with the FIRST fuse you removed, until the draw comes back.
The 4th step is only necessary if you find that you have multiple circuits causing a draw.
2) Connect amp meter between battery and cable
3) Start pulling fuses until parasitic draw is gone
4) Start adding fuses back, starting with the FIRST fuse you removed, until the draw comes back.
The 4th step is only necessary if you find that you have multiple circuits causing a draw.
Last edited by Vivid Racing; 08-22-2011 at 02:39 PM.
08-22-2011, 08:57 PM
#7
The tach wire is going to be any wire that is NOT either black OR white/blue. The only Z I've ever done remote start on was an '06, and the wire was yellow/red. Located at the ignition coil.
1) Disconnect positive battery cable
2) Connect amp meter between battery and cable
3) Start pulling fuses until parasitic draw is gone
4) Start adding fuses back, starting with the FIRST fuse you removed, until the draw comes back.
The 4th step is only necessary if you find that you have multiple circuits causing a draw.
1) Disconnect positive battery cable
2) Connect amp meter between battery and cable
3) Start pulling fuses until parasitic draw is gone
4) Start adding fuses back, starting with the FIRST fuse you removed, until the draw comes back.
The 4th step is only necessary if you find that you have multiple circuits causing a draw.
thanks for the info. I am going to work on it tomorrow.
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08-22-2011, 08:58 PM
#8
i am using the bypass that comes with the system. yes i wired the relay according to the diagram.
08-23-2011, 02:33 AM
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How did it show to wire the relay? The coil should be hooked to a (-) when armed wire and an ignition wire. A very common mistake is to hook the starter kill relay to constant power instead of ignition power, which leads to dead batteries.
08-23-2011, 10:51 AM
#12
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A relay coil will draw ~150mA of current. This is enough to kill a battery in 24-72 hours. A relay should never be left energized for extended periods with the car off.
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