NEVER run a separate channel of an amp to a seperate voicecoil.. your sub will die prematurely. I dont have time to get into the physics..

vc's are mean to be wired to themselves. in series or in paralel.

basic rules of 12v auto sound here.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll have to quickly check the wiring again, the instructions for the amp gave specific instructions on how to wire a dual voice coil sub. I believe the coils are in a series config using the two rear channels of my amp (alpine). The rear channels have a built in notch filter switch selector on the amp to accommodate ganging them together for a sub.

I have an electronics engineering background so I probably got it right, can't remember the specifics as it was a year ago when I did it.

 

I've been looking at building something very similar, but ported and running a pair of them with Sundown Audio's new 8" subwoofers (Real Audiophile Equipment, not box store crap) in them, because I'm sure I can get .45 or so after sub and port volume, which would be all I really need. Paired with about 1000 true rms watts, it should be loud enough for the roadster.

And running separate voice coils on different channels is generally a no-no because it's damn near impossible to match the output to both coils exactly, which means you have two different electromagnets that are tied together that are trying to move at different rates within a confined space which causes the coil to rock in the gap and will cause premature wear on the coils from them rubbing on the motor. I've personally tested how close the outputs are on a few very high dollar amps like Sundown, Zapco and McIntosh and they've never been exactly the same.

 

I just ran up to Sarasota yesterday and picked one up from SRQ. That "port" isn't a port at all- it's the opening for the terminal- it just hasn't been installed yet in that pic.

I'm still waiting on parts so I haven't installed anything yet, but I'll post up pics/results in a couple weeks. FYI, they can stretch the mounting depth a bit (5 1/4 isn't much to work with) and they can build them to accomodate most any sub- but it's only like .66 internally, sooo...

[Edit]

So it's installed. For those of you with Touring editions there's A-LOT of vibration. I went with a low powered 10" and I still spent about two hours taking apart the headrests, rear panels etc...even the hatch that covers the top needed attention. I used strips of black craft foam (easy to cut, looks clean, kills rattles dead). I have to think a 12 with any real power would vibrate to the point of driving (me) mad. 'My $0.02. Good luck!