I am installing 4 new coaxials in all the stock locations; I see my doors have tweeters stock (or at least the plastic for them), is there a crossover in the door splitting the stock wiring?

I am thinking I can't just wire my coaxials to the same wires that the current component midrange is using, as the signal to the midrange must have the highs filtered out as there is a separate tweeter, right? Does this mean I have to re-wire straight from my receiver?

Also, just to confirm my car did not come with a sub behind the seat or the plastic sub grille, and it is a 04.5 base enthusiast, that means I don't have the Bose System right?

Thanks for any help!

 

Even the base '06 has tweeters. The wiring within the door, I can't remember exactly, but I don't believe there's a crossover in there.

If quality is what you want, rewire it all anyway. Didn't your coaxials come with crossovers?

 

unless your stereo says bose you dont have bose simple as that

 

you absolutley can use the wires from the head unit to the doors for any good speakers.. thers ZERO reasons tio thread new wire into the door.
But you will have to use your own to go from your x over to woofer, xover to tweeter.

if its bose those wires can still be tapped w out having to run new wire.

 

^^ Larger wires = can hold more POWA
I also never trusted that factory wiring was the best option for quality.

 

It depends on what I'm doing. For some basic coax speakers, the OEM wiring is fine. If I'm going through the trouble of adding an amp, I'll rewire. Oh, and don't let anyone tell you that you can't run wire through the OEM door connector. I've done it dozens of times... Every time I see a car with holes drilled in the door jambs just for speaker wire, I want to throw up.

 

i mean this is true, but why bother.. ya know? Its just a pain in the butt.

Higher frequencies= less power demands both dynamically and peak.. sonicly, no difference between high power going thru smaller wires ( all runs are usually quite short, under 6 feet to each speaker... ) dampening factor is not an issue w mid and hi range speakers like a subwoofer.. Ive still never seen any benefit to using aftermarket wire.. i run my wires from my amp right to the head unit area harnes plug speaker section and Im done..
and i run 150 rms on all 4 corners.. thing is, if i tested the voltage and current of the amp and the amps output, id bet you its not really hitting that hardly except for very minute instances.

OP.. drop your speakers in, youre fine.

 

Okay, the car came with an aftermarket Pioneer so I couldn't tell, other than it not having the subwoofer stock.

 

Thanks; I am using JL coaxials so the tweeter and mid are all in one and there is no crossover with the JL's, so that is where I wanted to check - because the factory wiring must have 4 wires - and I only need 2; I just want to make sure I tap the right ones, and if there is a factory crossover I need to remove that.

 

I'm with you, I have a whole damn system with amp wiring and sub to install, I don't need to make any more work for myself!

 

Just make sure you grab the wires that are going to the current midrange drivers. I haven't installed coaxs in a Z, but if you're going to leave stock tweeters then you might have to diode isolate the new speakers.

For front doors and rear decks, it's easy. Takes less than 20 minutes for me on 99.9% of cars. Rear doors suck though.

 

If your car does not have a SubW behind the driver’s seat, you have the stock Clarion wiring. That’s a good thing since you can easily use the stock wire when installing aftermarket speakers.

Monster Cable did a good job convincing us it was important to run new and better cable when installing A/V equipment. The “FUD” (Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt) campaign worked well for awhile, but the digital people dispelled this. Analog purists may insist on new wiring, but savvy installers know this is not necessary.

The short answer: Use the wire connections to the stock midrange speakers and you won’t have any trouble.

--Spike

 

Yes, thanks; I just wasn't sure if the midrange had all of the signal that I need; I have since done a bunch more google searches and found that the tweeter simply has a high pass filter on it (guessing small inline type?) and the midrange gets the full signal non-filtered.

Although, I still don't really understand how or where the wires split from 2 to 4... but doesn't seem to matter, I will just use the midrange wires, and I plan on just disconnecting the tweeters - don't need them polluting my new JL system's sound!

 

Just got my 10" W3 and the rest of my goodies in the mail from crutchfield today, pretty much have it all together now - a lot of work ahead of me though.

UPS did a great job of smashing the W3 through its factory box, and almost through the outer main box, even though crutchfield had in in a gigantic peanuts filled box; god I hate those bastards, they have smashed every god damn thing Ive shipped the past few months badly.

 

i did a very similar install but with a jl w7. it's an easy install. i was an audio noob at the time but knocked out everything in about 1 hour and that's with a dvd head unit change as well.

 

I plan on mounting the amp in the stock subwoofer cubby area; does anyone have any tips/ideas on how to mount or secure the amp without drilling holes through my floorboard? Thanks

@SuperBlack350z yeah I don't know man, I think this is like a 2-3 hours job since I have to stop and read how to get all the trim and panels off, how to wire the amp cables, gotta pull the deck and run the RCA's, etc. - if I had taken the door panels off before and all that, it would definitely be quicker. btw, I would of bought the W7 but was afraid it wouldn't perform well at 250 RMS, because that is definitely the most watts I want..

 

oh ok, i see. it wasn't the first ive taken off the door panels or trim panels but honestly, it was a breeze. i thought the hard part was running the power cable back to the trunk area neatly but it was the easiest part.

your set up will sound really nice and clean. rattle should be to a minimum. let us know if you need any help.

 

In this case, yes, the stock wiring is fine. If he were adding an amp, I'd recommend upgrading the wiring. There's no way that using the OEM wiring is a better idea than running new wires when adding an amp. Especially when you have to run new wire anyway... It only takes an extra 5 minutes per door to take the wires through the molex and into the door.

 

I am hoping it turns out pretty good, I have had really bad luck in the past replacing stock speakers with aftermarket ones that sounded worse... so I coughed up the money for JL this time, we'll see.

I thought the amp wiring would be pretty hard too, but then I read yesterday that one guy wired it through the center console which may be much easier for me as I already have wires through there and a path that pops out in the cubby hole for the stock sub - which is the area I want to put the amp. Just a matter of fishing the amp wire under the passenger carpet I guess?!

 

You'll like the results. JL gets a bad rap on this board by the audiophile elite, since they say it's overpriced, blah blah blah.

I have JL C5-650 components in the front, JL C2-650 coaxials in the rear, a JL 10W3V3-4 in the back in a corner Zenclosure, JL wires to the amps, monster audio wires to the speakers and I'm running the speakers off a JL G4500 amp and the subwoofer off a G1700 amp and it sounds f-ing BRILLIANT.

My only concern for your setup is that the 250 watt subwoofer amp you're using might be a bit too weak for you to get the bass you want. I had mine running off a G2250 amp bridged to a 250 Watt 4ohm mono Class AB amp and honestly, I wasn't impressed. The G1700 pumps out 350 watts at 4ohms mono Class D and the difference is night and day.

I've done way too many installs to count on this car, and have played around a lot with different brands, setups, etc. I have the money and the time to do this, so no big. I think it's fun. I'll probably do something else to my car this weekend, just for sh-ts and giggles. I have a rear-view camera I've been wanting to mount for a while.

Oh, by the way, you're going to need to Dynamat the entire trunk area and the hatch if you don't want the sub to rattle your brain apart.