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Old 11-20-2011, 12:33 AM
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Mike Anthony
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Default Got a few audio system questions

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Thanks for the help guys!

Last edited by Mike Anthony; 11-26-2011 at 09:36 PM.
Old 11-20-2011, 03:13 AM
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Depends on your price range
Old 11-20-2011, 05:21 AM
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If you can I'd get the best components that meet your needs. If money is tight get them piece by piece. I love my Image Dynamics CX64s but if I had it to do over I'd get the 62s (2 ohm vs 4) As far as sub the JL Audio 10W3V3 in Wicked CAS magic box is invisible in the stock sub location and with my JL M1700 amp sounds great.
Old 11-20-2011, 09:35 PM
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Does BestBuy have decent enough speakers? If I were to walk into bestbuy with say, $1000 on hand. Could I get two 6.5" speakers, possibly 2 10" subs, and an amp (if I'd need one? not sure here) for that price range, and not have the quality be bogus?\
Old 11-21-2011, 09:23 AM
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Best Buy has got some decent stuff, listen in their demo center and decide what sounds good to you.

With $1,000 budget you might need to drop down to a single 10" if your budget also has to cover the head unit and installation. One 10" is plenty in a car as small as the Z. My previous system (VW Passat) I ran Polk's MM line of components and a 12" sub, with a 350 watt Kicker 4 channel amp. I also ran a Pioneer head unit, but I think in the Z I'm going to switch over to an Alpine unit with Imprint.
Old 11-21-2011, 09:34 AM
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I would not let BB touch my car.
Old 11-21-2011, 10:27 AM
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Don't go to best buy. If you compare their prices to other prices on the internet, they charge over +200% of a price on some of their speaker pairs. Look around, if you don't care about warranty -- like me, check out amazon. I bought a pair of 6.5 rockford fosgate components for my front doors for 70 bucks. As for a sub, it completely depends if your looking for loudness / shaking, or clarity and sound quality. These factors will greatly change based on your price range. I'd like to believe my system sounds good, but it's nowhere near what some people put in.

Alpine MRP-M500 Monoblock - Bought from best buy when it was on sale for $95
JL Audio 10w3v4 - Best sub I've ever owned. Bought it locally for $180.
Alpine Head Unit CDE-125BT - Bought from Amazon for $120 ($80 off MSRP)
Alpine Power Pack KTP-445 - Bought from Amazon for $90 (Not sure the MSRP)
Rockford Fosgate R1653s - Amazon for $70, best speakers for the price IMO.

The PowerPack really makes a difference and will make life easy if you don't want to do the wiring. A real amp will be better, especially in the cost range, but if you don't want to wire that and deal with finding a place to put it, I definitely recommend the powerpack. I love my setup. The speakers are crisp and have good sound with anything I throw at them; the sub can shake if I choose, but I normally keep it in a good sound quality range and it just sounds so smooth and clear.

All in all, my setup was sub-$500, and I'm completely satisfied. I'm probably more then an average listener, but much less than a true audiophile. Hope I could help.

Chris
Old 11-21-2011, 12:13 PM
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Chris, that definitely sounds like what I'm looking for. Something that sounds decent but wont blow the bank. Good point on the inflated bestbuy prices. Does the single 10" sub put out alot of bass. Most of the time I'd much prefer to just have nice clean crisp sound, but every once in awhile its fun to mess around and rumble the car. Haha

I think I could manage installation of everything. (I hope) The reason I mentioned bestbuy is mostly because they will install it for free if you buy it which would save me the trouble. But if I can really find speakers that much cheaper somewhere else I'd rather install them myself.

Might go by bestbuy to scope out some prices later.

What do you guys think about 8" subs?
Old 11-21-2011, 12:55 PM
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I have a lightly used M500 fs in the marketplace.
Old 11-21-2011, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Anthony
Chris, that definitely sounds like what I'm looking for. Something that sounds decent but wont blow the bank. Good point on the inflated bestbuy prices. Does the single 10" sub put out alot of bass. Most of the time I'd much prefer to just have nice clean crisp sound, but every once in awhile its fun to mess around and rumble the car. Haha

I think I could manage installation of everything. (I hope) The reason I mentioned bestbuy is mostly because they will install it for free if you buy it which would save me the trouble. But if I can really find speakers that much cheaper somewhere else I'd rather install them myself.

Might go by bestbuy to scope out some prices later.

What do you guys think about 8" subs?
Mike, I forgot to mention, I bought the box from Mike up at zEnclosures, along with speaker spacers. You NEED speaker spacers for most aftermarket speakers. As for a box, I love my type s box, its bigger, and sits between the strut bar and the seats, extremely stealthy.

Best buy is not worth the installation hassles. They don't truly install things for free. I've been through that. They break panels, clips, and don't do a good job.

My 10" sub is amazing. It is the well known JL 10w3, which I've never heard anyone speak poorly about. For the size ranges you have in boxes, unless you go seriously custom, 10"s and 8"s will both fit well, so why not get a 10"? The 10w3 can hit hard and still sound clean..hard enough that it truly surprises you it's a 10. My friend, with a 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 (2 ohms) was blown away, it hit so much harder and cleaner.

The choices are all up to you, but I'd recommend a 10, with a good amp backing it. In any case, get a good wiring kit, 4 or 8 awg, depending on your amplifier. Another choice you have is a 4 channel amp, sending to the front speakers and bridged to the sub. You have many options, its just about how much you want to spend and how clean of a setup you want. For me, my Alpine powerpack and MRP-M500 do more then necessary. If I were doing my setup again, I'd go with a 4 channel amp and only have ~200 watts to the sub. I run the M500 at 4 ohms, which sends 300 watts to my 10w3. For me, I never get anywhere near the volume (or bass levels) that that would be good for.

If you have any other questions, don't hesitate. I'd love to help, but I'm no expert. bmcann (I think that's his username?) is very experienced and knows what he's talking about. He can definitely be of good service to you.

In my experience, I wouldn't bother with warranty on speakers unless they're extremely expensive speakers like FOCAL, anything ~$100 is not worth a $30 extended warranty. This is why I bought my speakers from Amazon. As with my head unit and the powerpack. However, I do have a best buy warranty on the M500 (due to that deal that I got it for), and I am on my second M500. Also, I have a warranty with the store that I got my 10w3 from, I've had subs go out before, but never a JL.
Old 11-21-2011, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ccswift
Mike, I forgot to mention, I bought the box from Mike up at zEnclosures, along with speaker spacers. You NEED speaker spacers for most aftermarket speakers. As for a box, I love my type s box, its bigger, and sits between the strut bar and the seats, extremely stealthy.

Best buy is not worth the installation hassles. They don't truly install things for free. I've been through that. They break panels, clips, and don't do a good job.

My 10" sub is amazing. It is the well known JL 10w3, which I've never heard anyone speak poorly about. For the size ranges you have in boxes, unless you go seriously custom, 10"s and 8"s will both fit well, so why not get a 10"? The 10w3 can hit hard and still sound clean..hard enough that it truly surprises you it's a 10. My friend, with a 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 (2 ohms) was blown away, it hit so much harder and cleaner.

The choices are all up to you, but I'd recommend a 10, with a good amp backing it. In any case, get a good wiring kit, 4 or 8 awg, depending on your amplifier. Another choice you have is a 4 channel amp, sending to the front speakers and bridged to the sub. You have many options, its just about how much you want to spend and how clean of a setup you want. For me, my Alpine powerpack and MRP-M500 do more then necessary. If I were doing my setup again, I'd go with a 4 channel amp and only have ~200 watts to the sub. I run the M500 at 4 ohms, which sends 300 watts to my 10w3. For me, I never get anywhere near the volume (or bass levels) that that would be good for.

If you have any other questions, don't hesitate. I'd love to help, but I'm no expert. bmcann (I think that's his username?) is very experienced and knows what he's talking about. He can definitely be of good service to you.

In my experience, I wouldn't bother with warranty on speakers unless they're extremely expensive speakers like FOCAL, anything ~$100 is not worth a $30 extended warranty. This is why I bought my speakers from Amazon. As with my head unit and the powerpack. However, I do have a best buy warranty on the M500 (due to that deal that I got it for), and I am on my second M500. Also, I have a warranty with the store that I got my 10w3 from, I've had subs go out before, but never a JL.
I think I am either going to mount the Sub in the factory spot behind the seat, or I am going to remove my spare tire and shizz and make a custom box/trunk floor like I saw on another thread that's somewhere around here. Although the single 10 in the factory spot would probably be alot easier.

Do you listen to metal at all? I mostly listen to metal and I don't want a big rattling THUMP like the guy at best buy tonight was trying to sell me. He was telling me 10s suck and I need to get 12 because they're "louder" and told me to run an 1800 watt amp for ONE 12 inch sub rated for 400w. Anyways.... If you think the JL 10w3 will work well for me then I'm definitely interested in it. Does it fit in the factory spot? Could I put the amp in there too?
Old 11-21-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Anthony
I think I am either going to mount the Sub in the factory spot behind the seat, or I am going to remove my spare tire and shizz and make a custom box/trunk floor like I saw on another thread that's somewhere around here. Although the single 10 in the factory spot would probably be alot easier.

Do you listen to metal at all? I mostly listen to metal and I don't want a big rattling THUMP like the guy at best buy tonight was trying to sell me. He was telling me 10s suck and I need to get 12 because they're "louder" and told me to run an 1800 watt amp for ONE 12 inch sub rated for 400w. Anyways.... If you think the JL 10w3 will work well for me then I'm definitely interested in it. Does it fit in the factory spot? Could I put the amp in there too?
Mike, I looked into mounting a sub behind the seat, and I've heard mixed reviews. I know that SRQ customs has a box that goes there, and I've heard good things about that. Also, WICKEDCAS makes boxes that go there, and are well reviewed. However, I just feel like the behind the driver sub does not work efficiently with staging. I also like using the back glass as a reflector for the audio waves. Makes a huge difference.

You'll be fine with a 10, I've heard of a few people who have put a kicker 10" comp in the factory bracket behind the seat and cut the outer panel to fit the cone, I've actually seen this setup and can vouch for it sounding decent. But it'll never be as loud/deep as a true sub. Realize that if you just use the sub bracket, you're going to run free air unless you do a seriously custom job. I opted for ease, and lost a little trunk space.

Never would I throw 1800w at a 400w sub. I highly doubt the guy you talked to knew what he was talking about, I think he was just trying to upsell you on a cheap amp that is rated for outrageous numbers that are not realistic. Stick with name brands :: Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer, JL, etc. I've heard good things about Planet Audio, and I have a friend who has one, but if you can afford it ( I know this is a budget setup, but take quality over cheap ), go for a name brand. JL is overpriced, but I've never had problems.

I don't listen to metal, but I read all the reviews I could find for the 10w3, and everyone has said that it handles any type of music wonderfully. I listen to Country, Rap/Hip-Hop, Rock, and the occasional Punk. Rap songs hit amazingly and clearly, and Rock and Country the drums sound perfect as if you are there. I'm sure Metal will sound just as good. I'd recommend a 10w3 to you, but I'm slightly biased. I'd highly recommend a sealed box, I had a ported kicker 10" comp, the same model as I talked about previously in this post, and I liked it, but it wasn't crisp.

I'd recommend putting your amp under the passenger seat or in the glove box. Put it somewhere where it can breathe, but is also hidden.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Chris
Old 11-22-2011, 06:35 PM
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Is this the sub you're talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-10W3v...2019175&sr=8-1

Okay let's say I add the 2 rear 6.5" speakers, keep my existing front 6.5" speakers, and change the head unit. Can I buy 1 amp that will power everything including help out the 6.5" speakers or does only the head unit do that?

EDIT: Did some research. Could I use a 5 channel amp? Aka two inputs for front speakers pairs and an input for the sub?
Could I use this one? http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-5-A...pr_product_top

Did you have to modify your mounting holes to get the rockford 6.5" to fit? apparently people are saying they dont fit in a 6.5" hole because the mounting plastic or something is slightly larger.

---------

Do any of you guys have a DOUBLE DIN touchscreen HU that you absolulely love that was under $500?

Last edited by Mike Anthony; 11-22-2011 at 07:58 PM.
Old 11-23-2011, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Anthony
Okay let's say I add the 2 rear 6.5" speakers, keep my existing front 6.5" speakers, and change the head unit. Can I buy 1 amp that will power everything including help out the 6.5" speakers or does only the head unit do that?
The other way around: you want to swap out your FRONT speakers and keep the rears. Power the rear speakers with your new radio and use an amp on the front speakers. Its all about sound stage: the music should come from the FRONT of the car, you know like a concert. Bass is omnidirectional thus the subs can be mounted in the rear and not screw up the sound stage if the crossover is set right (around 90-80Hz).

You could run a 4 channel amp with rear channels bridged to drive a single sub and front 2 channels on the front speakers. Or amp everything up with a 5 channel. Or mix and match with a 2 or 4 channel amp plus a single mono dedicated subwoofer amp. There are plenty of options.

A single 10" will be plenty, two 8"s are perfect for metal/rock music. In fact two 8"s will most likely be louder then a single 10" but the larger sub will hit deeper. The most important thing with subs is if they are optimized for the box your putting them in. I personally recommend Polks MM line of subs, excellent small box sub that is not too expensive. Nothing wrong with the JL either, its an excellent sub, I did an install with three of them in a '65 Mustang. Image Dynamics makes great sealed box optimized subs as well.
Old 11-23-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by JMII
The other way around: you want to swap out your FRONT speakers and keep the rears. Power the rear speakers with your new radio and use an amp on the front speakers. Its all about sound stage: the music should come from the FRONT of the car, you know like a concert. Bass is omnidirectional thus the subs can be mounted in the rear and not screw up the sound stage if the crossover is set right (around 90-80Hz).

You could run a 4 channel amp with rear channels bridged to drive a single sub and front 2 channels on the front speakers. Or amp everything up with a 5 channel. Or mix and match with a 2 or 4 channel amp plus a single mono dedicated subwoofer amp. There are plenty of options.

A single 10" will be plenty, two 8"s are perfect for metal/rock music. In fact two 8"s will most likely be louder then a single 10" but the larger sub will hit deeper. The most important thing with subs is if they are optimized for the box your putting them in. I personally recommend Polks MM line of subs, excellent small box sub that is not too expensive. Nothing wrong with the JL either, its an excellent sub, I did an install with three of them in a '65 Mustang. Image Dynamics makes great sealed box optimized subs as well.
I already have front speakers though, I do not have any rears. The fronts I have currently I have no idea what they are (bought the car used) but they actually sound very good. I just wanted to buy some rears and a sub.

With an amp, can you choose the amount of watts its sending out to the speakers? I get what you mean about the staging. Decisions.... ugh!
Old 11-24-2011, 07:28 PM
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Alright here's what I need advice on.

What would be better bass, two 8's or one 10?

I'm reading alot of articles that say (for metal) two 8's own.

I understand how the amps and whatnot work now (I think), so if someone could give me some insight as to the 8's or 10 being better, I will then put together a system and see if you guys think it would work.

Last edited by Mike Anthony; 11-24-2011 at 08:48 PM.
Old 11-25-2011, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Anthony
Is this the sub you're talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-10W3v...2019175&sr=8-1

Okay let's say I add the 2 rear 6.5" speakers, keep my existing front 6.5" speakers, and change the head unit. Can I buy 1 amp that will power everything including help out the 6.5" speakers or does only the head unit do that?

EDIT: Did some research. Could I use a 5 channel amp? Aka two inputs for front speakers pairs and an input for the sub?
Could I use this one? http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-5-A...pr_product_top

Did you have to modify your mounting holes to get the rockford 6.5" to fit? apparently people are saying they dont fit in a 6.5" hole because the mounting plastic or something is slightly larger.

---------

Do any of you guys have a DOUBLE DIN touchscreen HU that you absolulely love that was under $500?

That is similar to the sub I have. 10W3v3-2 is imho better because 2 ohms allows the amp to put out more power.

That amp is ok but may be insufficient for the sub.
Old 11-25-2011, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by e30cabrio
That is similar to the sub I have. 10W3v3-2 is imho better because 2 ohms allows the amp to put out more power.

That amp is ok but may be insufficient for the sub.
Yeah I found the 10W3v3-2 also. I am more interested in that one cuz then I wont need as powerful an amp haha. Ive learned alot since the post you quoted haha. If the amp is rated for 500W RMS, does that mean thats the HIGHEST you want the amp to be throwing at it? Which would mean I dont want an amp higher than 500w rms?

Last edited by Mike Anthony; 11-25-2011 at 08:00 AM.
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