Turn your OEM Glove Box Into A Sub Box
#1
Turn your OEM Glove Box Into A Sub Box
After owning a SRQ box and hearing a CAS box , I thought there has to be something that sounds better . I did this mod to a friends 350Z last winter (mine was in storage) and it sounds amazing with no rattles . I am currently doing it to my Z now . I bought an extra glove box and cover plate(ebay) and another OEM steel sub plate (member on here) . As you can see I cut out the Latch hump to give the box more internal volume and to make sure my driver fits without any restrictions . I then used plastic epoxy and screws to put a new piece of ABS in to cover the hole . I then sprayed the inside of the box with Cascade VB sound deadener .
Last edited by TURBOROADSTER; 02-03-2012 at 09:14 AM.
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R8D (06-08-2020)
#2
As you can see in these pics , I put screws all the way around the box (outside flange) to keep it from coming apart . I then screwed terminal cups into the top of each box($1.50 Parts Express) . Each terminal cup comes with a gasket . I then put weather stripping around the lower (Hole) where the recessed plate goes in . It will also get screws all around and sound deadened . I then put weatherstripping around the front of the box , where the OEM Bose steel plate will mount . I chose to use the recessed plate at the bottom because it gives the box more internal volume and it gives about 2" more driver depth.
#3
You need to plug the 2 key shaped holes in the steel bracket(see Arrows) . The best way to do this is to put duct tape on one side , then on the other side use some epoxy to cover the holes ( JB weld works good) for this . Next mount a 3/4" thick MDF ring to the outside of the steel plate (make sure it is the right size ring for your driver) . I used gorilla glue and 4 screws (screwed from the inside of steel plate ) , making sure that they don't interfere with your sub mounting screws that will be coming in from the other side . I then cut holes in both finisher panels . When the box and steel plate are bolted into the car , there is a 3/4" gap between the steel plate and the fiinsher panel . This is why I used the MDF ring .
#4
I will post more pics as I start to put both boxes into the the car . The large finisher panel , the one with the glove box door mounted to it , also has to be trimmed . First remove Oem door from panel (passenger side) , and look closely at both openings , they are different . The driver side has the steel bose bracket installed , so the finisher panel hole is different on this side to accomadate the bose plate . Since there will be a steel bose plate on both sides , the passenger side hole has to be trimmed to match the drivers side . The finisher panel will not fit without this step . Mtx and Q-logic have been doing plastic boxes for years with great results . With a little work, the end result is jawdropping tight bass . I am using 2 10" subs , the max driver depth for this setup is 6" . Each box will yeild roughly 1 cubic Ft of internal volume .
#5
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wait, so youre using the actual plastic glovebox for your box? My friend, you have to use something far stiffer than that, ie the wicked cas box is fully fiberglass.
Eesh.. Props on the DIY spirit etc though, but yea, certainly not the correct way to go about enclosing a sealed box driver.
Not downing your work in the least, as im sure youre a novice and just didnt know, and thats why were all on here,, to share info... just noting the thread so others realize its not a very viable method.
Maybe if you layed fiberglass mat and resin over the whole thing, but then why not jsut buy a CAS or SRQ box?
This is going way backwards brother and at much labor on your part as well i assume.
Also, they have a box like this pre built available on ebay for some time now., would surely have been much easier to rock. Its on there every once and awhile, i tried looking for the link.
I mean im sure it will "work" and produce sound, but id not say its jawdropping or tight bass as the walls will easily flex, and is not a reccomended way to do it comming from someone whos been in autosound for well over 20 years.
The SRQ and CAS boxes are good in that they have this benefit, although they rattle the living hell out of the car back there.. violently so, hence im selling my srq box for scrap at this time.
I reccomend this box to those who are looking for simple and light and want to stay stealth.. this is one of the best woodworking builds ive seen , let alone from ebay. Hes really quite good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-350Z-...item3cbf1d9fd5
Can do 1 ten up to 2 12"s and i actually ahd him cut it for a single 13 JL flat sub.
Fits perfectly. You lose your spare, but its an amazing fit.
Eesh.. Props on the DIY spirit etc though, but yea, certainly not the correct way to go about enclosing a sealed box driver.
Not downing your work in the least, as im sure youre a novice and just didnt know, and thats why were all on here,, to share info... just noting the thread so others realize its not a very viable method.
Maybe if you layed fiberglass mat and resin over the whole thing, but then why not jsut buy a CAS or SRQ box?
This is going way backwards brother and at much labor on your part as well i assume.
Also, they have a box like this pre built available on ebay for some time now., would surely have been much easier to rock. Its on there every once and awhile, i tried looking for the link.
I mean im sure it will "work" and produce sound, but id not say its jawdropping or tight bass as the walls will easily flex, and is not a reccomended way to do it comming from someone whos been in autosound for well over 20 years.
The SRQ and CAS boxes are good in that they have this benefit, although they rattle the living hell out of the car back there.. violently so, hence im selling my srq box for scrap at this time.
I reccomend this box to those who are looking for simple and light and want to stay stealth.. this is one of the best woodworking builds ive seen , let alone from ebay. Hes really quite good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-350Z-...item3cbf1d9fd5
Can do 1 ten up to 2 12"s and i actually ahd him cut it for a single 13 JL flat sub.
Fits perfectly. You lose your spare, but its an amazing fit.
#6
wait, so youre using the actual plastic glovebox for your box? My friend, you have to use something far stiffer than that, ie the wicked cas box is fully fiberglass.
Eesh.. Props on the DIY spirit etc though, but yea, certainly not the correct way to go about enclosing a sealed box driver.
Not downing your work in the least, as im sure youre a novice and just didnt know, and thats why were all on here,, to share info... just noting the thread so others realize its not a very viable method.
Maybe if you layed fiberglass mat and resin over the whole thing, but then why not jsut buy a CAS or SRQ box?
This is going way backwards brother and at much labor on your part as well i assume.
Also, they have a box like this pre built available on ebay for some time now., would surely have been much easier to rock. Its on there every once and awhile, i tried looking for the link.
I mean im sure it will "work" and produce sound, but id not say its jawdropping or tight bass as the walls will easily flex, and is not a reccomended way to do it comming from someone whos been in autosound for well over 20 years.
The SRQ and CAS boxes are good in that they have this benefit, although they rattle the living hell out of the car back there.. violently so, hence im selling my srq box for scrap at this time.
I reccomend this box to those who are looking for simple and light and want to stay stealth.. this is one of the best woodworking builds ive seen , let alone from ebay. Hes really quite good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-350Z-...item3cbf1d9fd5
Can do 1 ten up to 2 12"s and i actually ahd him cut it for a single 13 JL flat sub.
Fits perfectly. You lose your spare, but its an amazing fit.
Eesh.. Props on the DIY spirit etc though, but yea, certainly not the correct way to go about enclosing a sealed box driver.
Not downing your work in the least, as im sure youre a novice and just didnt know, and thats why were all on here,, to share info... just noting the thread so others realize its not a very viable method.
Maybe if you layed fiberglass mat and resin over the whole thing, but then why not jsut buy a CAS or SRQ box?
This is going way backwards brother and at much labor on your part as well i assume.
Also, they have a box like this pre built available on ebay for some time now., would surely have been much easier to rock. Its on there every once and awhile, i tried looking for the link.
I mean im sure it will "work" and produce sound, but id not say its jawdropping or tight bass as the walls will easily flex, and is not a reccomended way to do it comming from someone whos been in autosound for well over 20 years.
The SRQ and CAS boxes are good in that they have this benefit, although they rattle the living hell out of the car back there.. violently so, hence im selling my srq box for scrap at this time.
I reccomend this box to those who are looking for simple and light and want to stay stealth.. this is one of the best woodworking builds ive seen , let alone from ebay. Hes really quite good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-350Z-...item3cbf1d9fd5
Can do 1 ten up to 2 12"s and i actually ahd him cut it for a single 13 JL flat sub.
Fits perfectly. You lose your spare, but its an amazing fit.
Last edited by TURBOROADSTER; 02-03-2012 at 11:10 AM.
#7
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Oh good lord.. ^^^^^
Dude..getting ur panties in a twist is uh..pretty redonk..and " coming to meet me"?
R u serious?
Im in Scottsdale AZ.. save your gas. U don't have to prove anything to me sir.
Ur box is still a poor idea. Sorry. Not opinion..
IASCA 1st place and 26 years of exp?
Hmm.
Well then youre not just a kid trying to build a box like I had thought
youre an adult..
a grown man... just like me
so now you really have no excuse, and it makes your reply look even worse.
There's nothing inflamatory in my post either,, sorry you thought so, but i guess if youre looking for it to read negatively, thats all you will see.
you'll see by my post count that Ive been here quite awhile, post often, and help other members often as well....
You .. well.. i guess wont be one of them.. youre names easy enuff to remember.
Enjoy your weekend. Ill simply let everyone else find this thread n beat on u instead.
Last edited by bmccann101; 02-03-2012 at 11:24 AM.
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#8
Dude..getting ur panties in a twist is uh..pretty redonk..and " coming to meet me"?
R u serious?
U don't have to prove anything to me sir. Ur box is still a poor idea. Sorry. Not opinion..
No room here for internet tuff guys.
There's nothing inflamatory in my post either.
You're going in my ignore list..
Enjoy your weekend. Ill simply let everyone else find this thread n beat on u instead.
R u serious?
U don't have to prove anything to me sir. Ur box is still a poor idea. Sorry. Not opinion..
No room here for internet tuff guys.
There's nothing inflamatory in my post either.
You're going in my ignore list..
Enjoy your weekend. Ill simply let everyone else find this thread n beat on u instead.
#10
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OP, NP man.. im a big enuff dude to admit maybe i read it wrong too haha.
and this could have easily gone the other way.
I shall call it truce haha.
I do agree about the cap thing.. they dont make a lick of power, but they sure help transient voltage drops during normal white boy music .. and in a car w a dinker alternator like ours, its sure to save some diodes.
Ill say i may be missing some info on the box then n call it a day.. like i said, i assumed you were a youngster like most ppl who seem to post here, and that you are using a light gauge thin plastic as your box.
Maybe im missing something..
Either way, when it comes to audio, its music.. if you like it, thats all that matters really..right?
I think its the fact the sub isnt masked towards the floor that makes it perform better for you.. "corner loading" like the srq and cas boxes works great.... if your corners are made out of concrete haha. Our cars certainly are not..
20 gauge sheet metal above a plastic gas tank? Meh not so hot.. especially if a guy is using a beefy sub.. my JL was a violent rattle machine... was truly horrific..
and the flange on the SRQ box was laughable.. why they didnt at LEAST use the metal flange like ur box was beyond me... pegboard masonite to hand the whole box? Yikes.
Ive been trying to GIVE mine away.. and i still cant haha.
anyways, alls good man.
Post ur finished pics when ur done, and sorry for the useless confrontation.
and this could have easily gone the other way.
I shall call it truce haha.
I do agree about the cap thing.. they dont make a lick of power, but they sure help transient voltage drops during normal white boy music .. and in a car w a dinker alternator like ours, its sure to save some diodes.
Ill say i may be missing some info on the box then n call it a day.. like i said, i assumed you were a youngster like most ppl who seem to post here, and that you are using a light gauge thin plastic as your box.
Maybe im missing something..
Either way, when it comes to audio, its music.. if you like it, thats all that matters really..right?
I think its the fact the sub isnt masked towards the floor that makes it perform better for you.. "corner loading" like the srq and cas boxes works great.... if your corners are made out of concrete haha. Our cars certainly are not..
20 gauge sheet metal above a plastic gas tank? Meh not so hot.. especially if a guy is using a beefy sub.. my JL was a violent rattle machine... was truly horrific..
and the flange on the SRQ box was laughable.. why they didnt at LEAST use the metal flange like ur box was beyond me... pegboard masonite to hand the whole box? Yikes.
Ive been trying to GIVE mine away.. and i still cant haha.
anyways, alls good man.
Post ur finished pics when ur done, and sorry for the useless confrontation.
Last edited by bmccann101; 02-03-2012 at 01:48 PM.
#12
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i had done the same thing.. the farther away the sub is the better usually, but yeah, dunno mang.
Im diggin my false floor set up, finally found something low key and simple and light that doesnt require pulling the car apart or weird rattles.
Im diggin my false floor set up, finally found something low key and simple and light that doesnt require pulling the car apart or weird rattles.
#13
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Low frequencies need room to develop and be heard optimally. Having a sub less than a foot behind the driver's or passenger seat will not produce the sound the sub was meant to reproduce. Have heard this on many Zs that have tried, both convertible and hard top. The low frequency produced by a sub woofer needs a few feet to develop. That's why a rear facing sub in the hatch bouncing off the glass produces a fuller "boom" Have seen several fiber glassed installations behind the seats that look good, but that's it, they look good.
#15
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Props for trying this but I can't imagine a plastic box is going to work unless you fiberglassed the hell out of it and at that point you've basically made yourself a CAS magic box.
I've got the SRQ box going in my Z soon, just worried about the rattles due to the downfiring design and all the metal/plastic back there. I too considered using the stock hole with a trim ring, but unless you fiberglassed the whole area behind it to seal off the rear wave of the woofer it would sound like crap.
My other idea was getting the CAS or SRQ box, sealing the bottom and instead firing two 8"s thru the front via a custom trim panel. Modeling in WinISD indicates two 8"s would be about the same as one 12" as far as output goes.
If my SRQ generates too many rattles I'll go with CAS corner box. One 10" in the hatch area without giving up alot of hatch space or your spare tire. The under the strut boxes are clearly the best solution as far as output goes (two 10"s would be perfect) but take up too much space (for me) by basically rendering the entire hatch useless.
I've got the SRQ box going in my Z soon, just worried about the rattles due to the downfiring design and all the metal/plastic back there. I too considered using the stock hole with a trim ring, but unless you fiberglassed the whole area behind it to seal off the rear wave of the woofer it would sound like crap.
My other idea was getting the CAS or SRQ box, sealing the bottom and instead firing two 8"s thru the front via a custom trim panel. Modeling in WinISD indicates two 8"s would be about the same as one 12" as far as output goes.
If my SRQ generates too many rattles I'll go with CAS corner box. One 10" in the hatch area without giving up alot of hatch space or your spare tire. The under the strut boxes are clearly the best solution as far as output goes (two 10"s would be perfect) but take up too much space (for me) by basically rendering the entire hatch useless.
#16
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Low frequencies need room to develop and be heard optimally. Having a sub less than a foot behind the driver's or passenger seat will not produce the sound the sub was meant to reproduce. Have heard this on many Zs that have tried, both convertible and hard top. The low frequency produced by a sub woofer needs a few feet to develop. That's why a rear facing sub in the hatch bouncing off the glass produces a fuller "boom" Have seen several fiber glassed installations behind the seats that look good, but that's it, they look good.
My system sounds great and seeing as I am not looking for BOOM BOOM BOOM, I'm happy with it.
I missed that but still wonder why with the extremely limited storage space in a Z you would give it up.
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Interesting theory, I don't think it is correct seeing as low level sound is omni directional.
My system sounds great and seeing as I am not looking for BOOM BOOM BOOM, I'm happy with it.
I missed that but still wonder why with the extremely limited storage space in a Z you would give it up.
My system sounds great and seeing as I am not looking for BOOM BOOM BOOM, I'm happy with it.
I missed that but still wonder why with the extremely limited storage space in a Z you would give it up.
? Some people don't need a glovebox for storage?
OP I like your effort and if it sounds good... it sounds good. Simple enough.
#19
Low frequencies need room to develop and be heard optimally. Having a sub less than a foot behind the driver's or passenger seat will not produce the sound the sub was meant to reproduce. Have heard this on many Zs that have tried, both convertible and hard top. The low frequency produced by a sub woofer needs a few feet to develop. That's why a rear facing sub in the hatch bouncing off the glass produces a fuller "boom" Have seen several fiber glassed installations behind the seats that look good, but that's it, they look good.
Woofer Box Aiming - by Eddie Runner
Which way to aim a trunk mounted woofer box in a car has been quite a topic of speculation for years. Folks, through experimenting have found that oftentimes the woofer box sounds much better when aimed backwards, the explanations I hear for why this works are usually quite absurd.
One absurd explanation is "the sound wave travels further when the box aims to the rear and by traveling further it sounds better. " Not true, sound actually looses volume as it travels, not becoming louder like his explanation seems to imply!
Folks also say "the wave has more room to develop." Well I don't like this explanation either, sound can really reinforce itself amazingly well in a small enclosed space without the need for any wave developing space!
And there used to be a story floating around called "bass trap" which inferred a magical property of some cars to eat up all the bass and not let it get to your ears.
Last edited by TURBOROADSTER; 02-09-2012 at 03:12 AM.
#20
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Good lord I hope you really don't think that low frequencies need room for development . I've done quite a bit of research over the last 25 years on the subject . Driver placement is the most important . For example , in your home theater you move your subwoofer from one wall to another to get the best low frequency response. But in reallity both positions were the exact same distance from the listener . There is a guy named Eddie Runner , that has done extensive testing on this subject . Here is a paragraph from one of his articles .
Woofer Box Aiming - by Eddie Runner
Which way to aim a trunk mounted woofer box in a car has been quite a topic of speculation for years. Folks, through experimenting have found that oftentimes the woofer box sounds much better when aimed backwards, the explanations I hear for why this works are usually quite absurd.
One absurd explanation is "the sound wave travels further when the box aims to the rear and by traveling further it sounds better. " Not true, sound actually looses volume as it travels, not becoming louder like his explanation seems to imply!
Folks also say "the wave has more room to develop." Well I don't like this explanation either, sound can really reinforce itself amazingly well in a small enclosed space without the need for any wave developing space!
And there used to be a story floating around called "bass trap" which inferred a magical property of some cars to eat up all the bass and not let it get to your ears.
Woofer Box Aiming - by Eddie Runner
Which way to aim a trunk mounted woofer box in a car has been quite a topic of speculation for years. Folks, through experimenting have found that oftentimes the woofer box sounds much better when aimed backwards, the explanations I hear for why this works are usually quite absurd.
One absurd explanation is "the sound wave travels further when the box aims to the rear and by traveling further it sounds better. " Not true, sound actually looses volume as it travels, not becoming louder like his explanation seems to imply!
Folks also say "the wave has more room to develop." Well I don't like this explanation either, sound can really reinforce itself amazingly well in a small enclosed space without the need for any wave developing space!
And there used to be a story floating around called "bass trap" which inferred a magical property of some cars to eat up all the bass and not let it get to your ears.
I love the internet. People post the most outlandish things as fact and then others repeat it and somehow it becomes "true".