MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys, did a search and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

I'm a total audio n00b, but hey that's what this forum is for. My dilemma is as follows:

Currently I have this system set up:

Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components up front
Infinity Kappa 629i coaxials rear
Kenwood DNX 7100 w/ Navi HU
Rockford Fosgate Punch 400.4 amplifier
Infinity Reference 1060w Subwoofer w/ Zenclosure box

I have the whole system being powered by my 4 channel amp. Now, this was my idiot mistake to do this. Obviously, I can't tune anything at all but for what it is everything does sound pretty damn good.

I'm going to upgrade my sub to a JL Audio 10w3v3-4 and I NEED this thing to have extra juice from my amp. What I want to do is rewire my rear speakers to my HU instead of through the amp. That way, I can tune and adjust how hard I want the sub to hit (because this thing will be a monster). Plus, it's overall better health for the amplifier. I wasn't told before I asked my rear speakers to be installed that, if I wired my rears, components AND sub to 1 4 channel amp, I would have this problem (stupid installers, and stupid me).

Now to the important question........ I've got that whole rear section completely dynamatted. The clips are stuck GOOD back there.... there's like a double layer of dynamat back there in certain areas and the rear panel is stuck pretty good. Am I going to have to take apart the rear panels in order to rewire my rear speakers to my HU???. If so I need to warn the installer that he's going to have some trouble doing so.... and take extra precautions

Thank you for reading my thread guys. I'm sorry for asking such a newbie question!

Qtip350z

You have two options here.

This would be the simplest way, Run a new set of speaker wires from the head unit and just tap in to the rear speaker wires at the amp location.

In most cases shops will use the factory speaker wires for all the speakers and run 4 speaker wires from the factory wire harness behind the radio all the way to the amplifier, so all you have to do is rewire the rear speakers from the wire harness that plugs in to the head unit.

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

WHEW!!!!!!!!!!!! F*** yeah! I definitely don't want to dismantle that rear panel after seeing one installer say "holy hell this thing is tight shut..... that double layer of dynamat is nuts"

Thank you!!

How do you suggest I keep it looking stealth (no wires showing)? Currently my amp is located behind my seat where the stock sub would be (inside that enclosure). Not sure how I can run some wires from the HU to that area without exposing some wires?

Qtip350z

The centre console is easy to take apart just a few screws to loosen, then you can easily fish a few speaker wires in to that enclosure area where your amp is located!

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

I would guess your installer has the front and rears parallel wired off of 2 of the channels . The other 2 channels are probably bridged to the sub . The only thing you will gain by running the rears off the deck , is front to rear fading . It will not increase sub output , in fact , your fronts and rears will not be as loud . Your front stage would now be running 4 ohm instead of 2 ohm and your rears will be running 4 ohm (Cheesy Hu Power) instead of 2 ohm amplifier power . Your sub will still be running off of the 2 bridged channels . And what kind of tuning do you want to do ?

Qtip350z

You won't be happy with upgrading to that JL sub if you are still going to power it with that Rockford 400.4 The sub will only get about 200-250 watts rms,
I would at least double that power to 500w rms.
IMO use the 400.4 for the front and rear speakers that way you can adjust the fad if needed, and purchase a second amp for the sub, you will be much happier in the end.
I have 2 Rockford amps in the same location as yours, T400.4 for front and rear
and T500.1 for my sub, It sound perfect!

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the replies guys, very helpful information.

Turbo.... I never thought about that. That's what I was after.... I want to stage my system so that most of the sound is coming up front, and hopefully provide a little more juice to the sub. Proves the point I just don't know sh*t about car audio.... thank you for that helpful insight... Which leads me to qtip's point... I totally understand, I WOULD be much better off taking that route. Currently awaiting words on job applications which pay very well, and once I get one I'll upgrade the entire system. I want that sub because I know I won't have to upgrade a second time when I want more bump. I think for now, powering the sub with 250watts rms is enough for me. Besides, I'm not after super hardcore bass in the car... I just want it to be crisp and hard enough to feel your seat shake lol.

But now I'm stuck on Turbo's point.... if I won't get any more juice out of the sub by wiring my rears to the deck instead of the amp, then is there a point? I like the way my system sounds right now as it is anyway... maybe I should just keep the setup I have right now and when I have the spare change to buy a new amp for the sub, take that route? I know that underpowering a sub won't harm it so there's no big deal here.

Appreciate the feedback

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

Yes that is the best thing to do right now , leave it as is . Buy a mono amp in the future for the sub , then you just need to run a few new wires to the new amp and change around your speaker wires on the 4 channel . FYI , I have seen more subs blown from underpowering than overpowering . Most often a novice will crank the gains all the way up to compensate for the underpowered amplifier . This is when major distortion and amplifier clipping occurs , it is very hard to hear distortion in low frequencies . The combined distortion and clipping will smoke a voice coil very quickly .

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

Haha don't worry.... I'm familiar with clipping and I know not to squeeze too much juice from my amp. I might be a n00b but I'm not that much of a n00b... been on this forum long enough to read up about clipped signals. I'll be sure to keep my gain at a reasonable level. What I really need to do though is figure out where the bass distorts - and as you said, it's hard to catch it at low frequencies. My HU has a max volume setting of 50 or 55, I normally listen to my music at 18-20, 21 max. I will dial down the bass gain to protect the sub. I'd MUCH rather underpower it safely, than send it a clipped signal.