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snaking amp wires on base

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Old 01-04-2004, 05:57 PM
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kruuth
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Default snaking amp wires on base

I was curious what wires from the harness need to go to a subwoofer. I've never done it beofre. Little help?
Old 01-04-2004, 11:34 PM
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are you replacing your head unit? if so to get the sub working you need to run a set of rca cables to wherever you are mounting your amp. you also need to run a power cable from the battery to the amp and you need to ground the amp as close as possible to the amp. you then need to run speaker wire (i'm using 12 gauge silver cable which is prob over kill but i'd say try to use at smallest 16 gauge) to wherever the subs are.

to figure out how and where to run all those cables you can check out the thread listed "350z how to's" which is the first thread on the audio section of the forums.

and if you're not replacing your radio then that information is somewhat useless. you would have to get a hi-volt output convertor which will turn the hi voltage output signal from the stock radio to a low voltage signal that can be used to send your audio signal to the amp. the rcas then run from that to the amp and the speaker wire and power wire works the same way.

hope that helps.

Rajiv
Old 01-04-2004, 11:36 PM
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oh and if i made a mistake anywhere and anyone notices please correct me!

Rajiv
Old 01-05-2004, 11:20 AM
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kruuth
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Interesting. Well, what I'd like to do is just utilize the existing speakers and run lines to a subwoofer. Do you think I need an amp for that or should I jsut use the internal amp on the new stereo I'm installing?
Old 01-05-2004, 06:22 PM
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Is this for the bose or non bose stereo?

i dont really know much about the wiring for the bose stereo in regards to the bose amp and the way the wiring for the speakers or sub are.

if this is for the non bose stereo and you are replacing the head unit but retaining the stock speakers (if you tend to listen to music loud i think you'll want to replace those speakers too shortly after you listen to the setup) then the internal amp from the head will be powering those stock speakers so you will need to get a new amp for your subs. In any case the power from any head unit isn't really enough to power a sub.
Old 01-05-2004, 06:44 PM
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kruuth
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I see. I'm considering doing that. The new cd player has the rca outs. I'm thinking cheap amp and subwoofer...cost?
Old 01-05-2004, 09:47 PM
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there are lots of options as far as an amp and a sub go. it's a lot easier to decide what equipment you want to go with after you decide how much money you have and want to spend. an amp and sub can be done for pretty cheap or very expensive or anywhere inbetween based on that decision. after you make that decision i'm sure you can get plenty of opinions and feedback on what equipment to get.
as far as my setup goes i'm extremely happy with the JL Audio stuff, though it can be fairly pricey. I managed to get some great deals luckily and was able to not blow as much money as i thought i'd have to.

Rajiv
Old 01-06-2004, 08:26 PM
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kruuth
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ah. Well, no amp right now, and no speaker. What I'm going to do is pull wires now and work backwards off of it. That way Iwon't have to do as much tear-down next time.
Old 01-06-2004, 08:41 PM
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that's a great idea for making a future install much faster. it actually ended up taking me a LOT LONGER than i thought it would take to run all new wires for the speakers. i would not recommend trying to run 2 12gauge wires into each door. IT WAS NOT FUN
You should also run wire with enough excess in case you change your mind on where you want your amps to be when it comes time to do that.

Rajiv
Old 01-06-2004, 08:51 PM
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kruuth
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There any power I can feed off of back there, or should I send a wire back there for that too?
Old 01-07-2004, 11:08 AM
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To power any amp that you'll connect in the future you need to run a line from the battery. There is a great post on how to do that in the how to thread.

Rajiv
Old 01-07-2004, 12:31 PM
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kruuth
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Ok. How do I pop that panel out? I thought it just lifted out.
Old 01-07-2004, 08:50 PM
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To pop that panel out i used a flat head screw driver with a paper towel over the end (to not scratch the plastic) and pried the panel out from the top. Just sort of wedge the flat head in the top a bit and it's pretty easy to get out.
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