Hey I just finished installing a jl 500.1 amp, 2 12" subs and a set of LEDs. Everything is wired the way it is supposed to be. I don't know where power can be leaking from.

The LEDs are wired to my demon eyes which are wired directly to the battery and a switch. The demon eyes Were already working off the battery and the switch I just tapped into it for the LEDs so evetythig goes on at the same time.

Any ideas? Maybe I should just run the LEDs to a wire that's only on when the key is on?

 

A JL 500.1 amp.. ( assuming everything is wired properly).. and suddenly your battery is toast..
You are running an amp that requires a very large supply of current. This means when youre driving, your dipping past where your alternator can handle, especially if your wiring isnt overkill large.
Then your battery basically gets a surface charge to start your car ONCE .. and so on.. try to start your car, turn it off, start it, turn it off, and start it again.. i bet your batttery has no life left in it to do so.

Always make sure your wiring is large, use capacitors to lessen the instant demand during music, check the water in your battery, or get a new one.

I doubt you have parasitic draw on your battery w an amp istall and leds install.. I do however think youre over the liits w your electrical demands and are killing out your battery as well as beating your alternator diodes to death..

fyi i run tightly regultated power supply amps only.. Alpine pdx 150.4 and pdx 1000.1, i use 2 gauges wire and a Stinger 10 farad hybrid cap bank.. and sand all rgounds to metal and re seal w paint over my grounds.. this helps. Anything elss, your asking for issues in the future.

 

Ok just a little update. I tested the switched hooked up to the LEDs. The accessary wire shows .01v when it's off when on it's 12ishv. Why is there always some power being drawn? Think I should just run these to the fuse box. But I don't think it was enough v to make the car die.

I had the charger on the car and got it to start. Pulled charger off and it didn't charge that much but when I whent to start it right after it wouldn't start, but th and was left on. Turned the radio off put the charger on to jump it amd it started right up. Then I turn off and try to start and it doesnt start. I just disconnected the power wire for the amp and gonna go for a drive and see If car starts. With it connected u can litterely see the volts dropping very slow when u dmm the battery.

Also with it connected the HU volume doesn't have any sound until it's at like 25> with it off yiu hear at like 4. Why is this.

There is a power wire from the batt a ground connected to the trunk with nothing else connected and the amp on wired coming from the HU. Thinking this is a problem coming from the amp on wire. Which is turning on the stock Bose amp and speakers and my jl amp. Maybe I should connect that wire to something like the cig lighter?

Thanks in advance

 

So the power wire to the amp and the LEDs I had hooked up is now disconnected. And the battery was charged drove around the block and parked for an hour and came out to start it and it's dead. When I charge it to jump it starts it's seems that the battery just isn't holdin it's charge. Is this Bc the amp takes so much power from it?

The car was dead after everything was hooked up and put the charger on it for hours and the car has been fine all week. This just started happening today

 

That's what I said in my reply previously. You can't add as many amps as u can afford into any car

.its physics..you have to have current created ( alternator) to be able to use current ( charge battery, run your stereo, ecu, headlights etc).
You increase current demand w boost of any bass frequencies.. and also by dropping voltage w poor sized wiring or grounds.

 

Its hefty but not THAT big of an amp IF wired w at least 4 gauge wire and super good ground.
Replacing your battery will likely b a good fix for now.

 

I have the same amp plus a JL 300/4. I run 2 10" subs as well. This amp is not an overkill
on power as stated by OP. When you turn off the car do you visually look at the
power-on (green) light on the amp to make sure it turns off?. How old is your battery.
How high does your voltmeter read when car is running. In any case, do not tap into an acc line for the amp-turn-on.

 

My post above was posted just after the 2 posts above so some of my points may not be relevant since I did not see those comments. Chances are you need a new battery.

 

I'm using 2 gauge wire all around. Sanded all the grounds. I have the charger on it now for an hour. Gonna start it before work, then check again after. I get that it takes power but didn't think it was anything that crazy that I needed to upgrade batteries or bigger alt. I ran same set up before in a Hyundai and it was fine. Ok no amp on wire to an acc. Why is that, just courious?

It's the original battery from my 05 and I have about 45k on it. You guys think this is just a coincidence that it was like a shock to the battery and now it's dead.

It's not the alt bc it runs fine once it starts.

 

Lol bro.. way past due for a battery.. its almost 2013 haha.. Facepalm
..problem.solved..

 

Actually you can use any acc source for that. I just verified from the manual. Just make sure the "Signal sensing" switch is set to OFF. You can also consider buying an Optima Yellowtop battery. I know some will outright dismiss that. I have that and love it so far. I have an 05 too but decided to dump the battery (original) a few months after my install. It was still good though

 

Had that problem also. Yup, just need a new battery lol

 

Thanks for the replys guys.. I actually charged the battery for like 2 hrs before work with the amp power line and the LEDs disconnected and 7hrs later just got home and it started.. Wasn't flawless but started better then it's been. Still think it's just the battery?

Yea lol I figured it was ove due but saw something saying these batteries should last forever?

I loved my yellow top battery I had on my old set up

 

Do yiu guys think I need a new battery if it's working when the amp and LEDs are disconnected?

 

Yes. Doesn't work like that..
Google about when a car battery needs to b replaced.. read a bit n you'll learn a lot in.a fraction.of the time n effort UV already spent on the issue..thank me later lol.

 

You need the Amps working, right?. Get a new battery man. You mentioned you used a Yellowtop before. Use the following guide if you plan on buying one.

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video...ellow-top.html

 

Yea new battery it is. It dies even with the stuff disconnected. I've been searching about what battery to use. Do I just go with a oem or should I get a yt? Is the extra 100$ worth it? Thanks for the help.

What should I google to learn more about the batteries out of curiosity? I know the basic gist how it gets charged from the altenator and stored in cells. What causes them to finally die? Whatever holds the charge where's out? I know I need a new one just like to be knowledgeable
Thanks

 

I like to use odyssey drycell batteries. I used to run a 14lb($100) in my turbo sephia with no problems. They go up in size from there (pc680)