Might have been asked and answered (maybe my earlier post is waiting for approval) but what is a killer 10" subwoofer to replace the stock 10" in my Touring model?
I'm not talking about replacing any amps besided the TSB issue amp that is being looked after as we speak. But as the stock sub is so flimsy, I would just like to try a different sub while leaving the rest of the infrastructure intact and see what that does. Also needing to know, doesn't Bose add some voodoo to their setups that only allows replacement by Bose products. Some of the processing on their other products have been like that is the past. What is the correct ohmage on the 10" stock speaker. Mine metered out at under 1 ohm. Wondering if that is correct.
TIA
dbx

 

You would need a free air sub if you don't want to build a box for that compartment. The problem is that space is filled with rattles. I replaced my Bose sub (along with the amp) and installed a Phoenix Gold free air sub. It is ok, not great. My Kicker Comp VR in a hatch-mounted box more than makes up for the lack of solid low-end bass. My advice...stick with that Bose sub or gut it and start from scatch. Bose equipment does not interface well with aftermarket products. Good luck!

 

Hey thanks for the info. That is what I suspected about Bose products and other pieces.
Is there a second amp for the sub or does the existing amp cover all the speakers including the sub?
So are talking about replacing the amp to the entire speaker system or just an additional sub amp. If so, where does one grab the line out for the sub input? Is there an output off the head unit that plugs into the exsisting amp and is crossed over there or is there a sub output directly off the head unit? In short, where does the input for a sub amp come from?
dbx