PAC ROEM-NIS2 Necessity
#1
PAC ROEM-NIS2 Necessity
On this forum I read guys saying you absolutely need the ROEM-NIS1 or ROEM-NIS2 adapter to make your aftermarket HU work with the OEM amp, however, there are a few that said they got it to work without one.
I have a Parrot Smart and I used ROEM-NIS1. I got it to work. However, my mids are getting compressed and it's like the system is suppressing that whole range and equalizers won't fix it.
My question is, has someone definitively gotten an aftermarket HU to work without a ROEM-NIS2 adapter and do you think these adapter compress the sound?
I want to take mine out and find out why the sound is being squeezed, but I don't want to rip apart my car again if it won't work.
I don't want to buy an aftermarket amp at this point. Also I do have Pioneer midwoofers and Inifinity tweeters.
I have a Parrot Smart and I used ROEM-NIS1. I got it to work. However, my mids are getting compressed and it's like the system is suppressing that whole range and equalizers won't fix it.
My question is, has someone definitively gotten an aftermarket HU to work without a ROEM-NIS2 adapter and do you think these adapter compress the sound?
I want to take mine out and find out why the sound is being squeezed, but I don't want to rip apart my car again if it won't work.
I don't want to buy an aftermarket amp at this point. Also I do have Pioneer midwoofers and Inifinity tweeters.
Last edited by ryanmackk; 12-17-2014 at 09:32 AM.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Do you have Bose? If not how'd you get the amp to work, I tried using the standard Metra harness and it didn't work, needed the Pac adapter harness.
However I do sort of agree on the sound, could be due to the headunit though, and replacing the factory amp would probably help, or just better speakers.
You can always get rid of the PAC and run speaker wire to every speaker in order to not use the factory amp, which is mostly why you need the PAC
However I do sort of agree on the sound, could be due to the headunit though, and replacing the factory amp would probably help, or just better speakers.
You can always get rid of the PAC and run speaker wire to every speaker in order to not use the factory amp, which is mostly why you need the PAC
#6
Do you have Bose? If not how'd you get the amp to work, I tried using the standard Metra harness and it didn't work, needed the Pac adapter harness.
However I do sort of agree on the sound, could be due to the headunit though, and replacing the factory amp would probably help, or just better speakers.
You can always get rid of the PAC and run speaker wire to every speaker in order to not use the factory amp, which is mostly why you need the PAC
However I do sort of agree on the sound, could be due to the headunit though, and replacing the factory amp would probably help, or just better speakers.
You can always get rid of the PAC and run speaker wire to every speaker in order to not use the factory amp, which is mostly why you need the PAC
You mean like run straight wires from the HU to the speakers without an amp?
I think it'll work without the PAC only because before PAC I wired in a certain way that wouldn't work. After getting PAC I wired it in the same way and it still wouldn't work. I researched, for my particular HU i needed to loop the power amp wire back into the switching red wire. Anyways, I did this and it worked. For this reason I think it will work without PAC. Just such a ***** to rewire all that stuff. It's like starting from square 1.
My speakers are pretty decent. I did some research and got some good ones for the money. My widwoofers are Pioneers and my Tweeters are Inifinity. But i read the problem might be due to resistance. Someone of this forum mentioned the bose wires run a 2ohms resistance while normal sound systems run 4ohms.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I don't know for sure, if that's all you'd have to do it'd be worth a shot, but I'd bet rewiring the speakers with or without an amp will be easier in the long run, and then you'll know for sure which wires run where, leaves no guess work or research to be done.
I know with my HU nothing worked, I couldn't even get it to actually power on. The buttons would light up but screen wouldnt come up. The PAC was the only thing that worked, so I just kept Bose essentially and ran power/ ground / remote to my 10 and amp separately. Works fine, hu is a pos tho
I know with my HU nothing worked, I couldn't even get it to actually power on. The buttons would light up but screen wouldnt come up. The PAC was the only thing that worked, so I just kept Bose essentially and ran power/ ground / remote to my 10 and amp separately. Works fine, hu is a pos tho
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