http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1366001...h-600-1v3.html
amp for sub

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8...-GM-D8604.html
amp for speakers

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TERM...minator65.html
back seat speakers

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB65...io-db651s.html
door panel speakers

http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php?productid=100
bose sub replacement

in the hour of research ive done, i just skimmed for this, any suggestions? i just went for stuff that didnt need refitting that much, but was still possibly quality items.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV6....html?tp=20217 this is my head unit i got a week ago but i havent installed it yet. it can still be returned, i just wanted a head unit that was good, and had an aux port since thats usually the best audio quality, and i can still play my own playlists off my other music app on my android

 

I haven't heard those speakers, but they're likely good quality. But, I wouldn't take that sub if you gaveit to me for free. It fires downwards into the closed area behind the seats, and all you get is lots of rattling. Build your own enclosure, or buy a different type. I built my own for ~$50 in supplies and it sounds great.











I wanted a stealth/OEM look to the system, and there is another JL 4-channel amp hidden under the glove box, while the one on the glove box is for the sub. I used Boston speakers in the door and behind the seats.

 

There is one for without the sub so I can put something else in, but I'm new to enclosures so Idk what material/shape is good for one. However the enclosure without is made for most likely the 10 inch subs. Is there any online sites that make a good enclosure? And is it a bad idea to mix speaker brands?

 

to me MTX is about as quality as Megan Racing parts

 

That CAS enclosure isn't what you want. The way you design one is based on the specs of the sub you want to use. Not the size of the driver, but the volume of the enclosure recommended by the manufacturer. Shape doesn't matter much, volume does. Also how solid the box is, as you don't want it to vibrate/resonate. My box is made of 3/4" MDF, screwed and glued together, with all the seams caulked to be airtight. The FatMat also helps to make the box acoustically dead. If you can't make one yourself, there are plenty of good pre-made boxes out there, but that particular CAS isn't one of them. there is also a knockoff of that box available by SRQ, and while it's very much cheaper, it's still not the one to have. Do you need the box to be hidden, like in my system?

 

Yeah, I'd probably buy Polks all around.

 

i would do just about anything over MTX.... pioneer, kenwood, infinity, diamond audio....

 

I just want it to fit in place of my bose space but have the cover fit cleanly, I'm very new to mods with wiring, but I'm an audiophile. So I like clean sound. Polk fits the back? I thought it wouldn't so I chose the terminator and decided to have tweeters stick to the sides on top like in the picture that was shown in the guy's setup above. I'm not entirely sure what would be needed to make a proper sub with the sound that comes out towards me. Last sub I had was an infinity in my old tiburon. Frankly I'm not sure what brand is good. That's why I need a recommendation. And some help. I chose the sub cabinet since this is my daily driver (except snow, my other car is for that) so I refuse to put one under the strut because I need trunk space for my bass guitar... If someone says that spot

 

here is what i would do... go to a stereo shop and tell them what you want and the quality you are going for, get a written quote and then buy the parts online and install yourself

keep in mind, you will need to run new speaker wires to the fronts and rears to bypass the BOSE stuff, there is a way to do some of it using factory wires, but wont go there, will confuse you

 

Or, if you were going to spend that much money on the CAS box, any decent shop can make you a box like mine for a hell of a lot less. Maybe $100? It's 18.5" long, 12.5" wide, and 6.5" deep. It's the largest regularly-shaped box that will fit that space. It's got a pound or so of fiberfill inside, and will work with most any good 10" sub.

Resist the urge to mount a free-air sub like the original Bose, which sounds like crap for a reason. You need a well-made sealed box for good sound.

 

When I talk to my friend who's gonna wire the power to my aftermarket Sony head unit and wheel control module, he can check this out. Feel free to tell me. Also is Sony a good head unit? Or should I get something more pricey like pioneer?

 

i had a pioneer, but its whatever you like. actually what i was thinking wont work since it has the bose,.... disregard

 

with normal stereos you take the rear speaker wires and put the amp output on it, and then behind the radio hook the rears to the fronts going to the door speakers.... doesnt apply in this matter

 

What's a good sub to use? Kicker?

 

back in my stereo days (got tired of them being stolen) i had cerwin vega, kicker, orion, JL, audiobahn (which i really liked) and kicker pro comps.

 

Thread moved to the appropriate section.

 

Road trip to Hartford... This is how my 8 inch sub is situated in my car. I have no complaints...
https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/5544092256.html


Lol like this

 

the weird part is im by hartford, but im not filling the strut space.

 

it would sound better, and you are not losing much space

 

Any place else you might as well not bother. You need air to move... A subwoofer moves air... Basically the hatch is the only available air... Behind the seat is a good place to hide the amp... Thats about it IMHO.