That's exactly what I did. The wood (not sure what kind) is about 1/2 inch thick. It was cut to hold a 10" sub and fit on the stock sub metal bracket. Dynamat was used on the back side of the wood bracket to seal any space between the wood bracket and metal bracket then the wood bracket was screwed to the metal one using the holes already provided on the metal bracket. Then the sub was mounted to the wood bracket. The stock bose speaker cover does fit but when the sub pounds under heavy bass it hits the cover causing a rattle noise. I'm not sure what i'm going to do about this yet. I may just cut a hole in the cover to fit the sub in then cover the hole with some kind of material.

 

Where did you get the poly fill? Is that exactly what it's called? I can't seem to find it anywhere. I thought that was supposed to be used to increase the area of an enclosure. I think the space inside the enclosure is big enough, no?

 

Before you start cutting, I have an idea for you. Simply mount everything the opposite way from which you have it now. Instead of (from the inside out) Factory Metal Panel >> Wood Panel >> Sub >> Factory Plastic Panel, change it to where the sub is mounted on the inside like this: Sub >> Wood Panel >> Factory Metal Panel >> Factory Plastic Panel. You are not going to loose much air space and the excursion of the sub will not come close to the plastic cover panel. Best of all, you should not have to make any modifications to the wood.

Just a thought.
BSZ

 

That's a good idea but i'm not sure if it will work. I don't think the back of the metal panel is flat like the front. I think there maybe some lips that stick out on the inside where the circle is cut out. I'm not sure...will check this out. Thanks.

 

With everything you've done so far, I'm sure you can work it out. At worst case, it's nothing a few layers of dynamat cant fix.

 

Anyone got an estimate on how much Dynamat you would need for just the sub-compartment?

 

for good coverage, I'm thinking about.....6-7 square feet minimum.

 

There is definately a lip on the back side of the bracket that would prevent it from creating a flush seal; however I just had a thought...

Rather than mounting the speaker from behind the bracket, what if you mounted the bracket from the inside of the compartment? I think that would give the clearence needed when the speaker hits. I can't picture the area from the inside at this moment but it might be possible.

Also as far as Dynomat goes, there was a guy on here who helped me with bracketing the speaker to the the bracket who had mentioned that rather than spending all of that money on Dynomat, he called a couple of roofing companies in his area and bought some called Peal 'N Seal. (He wasn't sure if that was the exact name but basically it is a tar based substance on one side and a reflective substance on the other side. Roofers use it for insullation. I didn't find any at any of the harware stores but Iwill get back to my car probably this weekend, after tax season, and try calling some smaller localized roofers. He say he bought, I think it was a 25' role or maybe a 100' roll for like $25.


If anyone has some time to try some of thier local roofers that would be great, if not I will get onto it on Friday.

 

Polyfill is the stuff used by seamstresses to fill pillows with and other crafts. It looks like fluffy white cotton. You can find it in the crafts/sewing department at WalMart, or you can definitely find it at a sewing store like Jo Ann's Fabrics.

 

I don't think mounting the bracket inside the compartment would work because I don't think you can fit it inside. In regards to the peel and seal i've heard it's crap compared to dynamat - peels off in the heat, not nearly as sticky. You get what you pay for.

 

Yeah I got the polyfill @ my local Wal-Mart 5 bucks.
online wanter 30 lol
Also on the back of my speaker cover I use some dynamat squares and now it sounds great. I wish I had the time to put some dynamat uner the sets. Did you use silcone to seal the sub to the mdf? That will give you an air tight seal.
Later