Ok so I'm upgrading the non-bose system in the G35. I'm keeping the stock H/U and I want some powerful, clean speakers in the doors. I haven't decided on the brand yet. So far I have only the amp - Precision Power 600.4 (75x4 @4ohms, 150x4 @2ohms) I want to replace only the door speakers. I'm not concerned with a sub right now.

So I have a few questions:

- Can anyone recommend some good full range components for the front doors with decent bass extension?

- Does anyone know of any good 2 ohm speakers? I used to have some Soundstream SPL components in another car and liked them a lot.

- I know some will say I don't need speakers in the rear doors, but I want them. Rather than coax, are there any companies that makes some good mid-bass speakers. I'm not sure of the size, either 5 1/4 or 6 1/2. Or is this a bad idea, if they are even sold?

Ideally, I'd like both front and rears to be the same brand. It's been a while since I've been in car audio so I'm a bit lost. Hmm, that's all I can think of for now.

TIA!

 

Boston Acoustics makes some 3 ohm stuff.... At least that's what I think the pro 6.53s are...

 

Thanks, I'll look into those. Any other suggestions? Anyone?

 

Why are you looking for 2ohm speakers? Most car audio speakers nominal impedance is 4ohms. The resistance completely changes when the woofer is moving back and forth. The specs on your PPI amp show that your RMS power is going to be 75W per, but if you are listening to something really dynamic the speaker resistance will drop even below 2ohms, when moving back and forth, to pull the necessary power from the amp. 75W per channel from a PPI amp should be enough power for any decent mid bass speaker.

 

I'm not that technical but don't speakers with lower resistance play louder? So at 2ohms the PPI puts out 150 watts, which would mean more power right? I really have no clue, I just remember those Soundstream SPL components I used to have would play louder and cleaner than any other speaker I'd ever had in my old car.

Any other speaker recommendations? What about wiring kits? They all look about the same to me, any good brands?

 

I'm not to technical either, just enough to get me in trouble. Speakers with a lower resistance play louder because they cause you amplifier to work harder. Your amplifier working at a 2ohms means that you will get a lot more heat and a lot more distortion along with the power. A good amplifier, like a PPI, shouldn't have a problem working at 2ohms but it will still give out more heat and distortion like any other amp. Dissident mentioned that Boston Acoustics makes some 3ohm speakers. They make them at 3ohms because you can pull just a little more power from your amp than you would from a 4 ohm speaker. You also wont get as much distortion or heat as you would with a 2ohm speaker. If you are dead set on running your speakers at 2ohms, which I don't recommend, you can always wire your mids in parallel to get a final 2ohm resistance per channel.

 

Thanks, that's about the knowledge I had. I'm looking to get some of the BA 6.5 Pros up front, skipping the rears and bridging the rear channels to power 1 10" sub mounted somewhere stealth in the trunk. What JL sub do you think would work for the amount of power the PPI will put out, or any other recommendations?

 

The W6 and the W7 are both great sounding subs. They are also very power hungry. I don't think that you would be able to get the power that you would need to run either of them off of your amp.

Also if you only have a 4 channel amp and you are already going to bridge it to 2channels, for the front, where are you going to get the remaining power for the sub.

Is getting another 600.4, for the rears, and a separate amp for the sub an option? If so, it would make a killer system.

 

Hmm, so I'm confused. I'm not planning on running rear speakers. So I can't use the front LR from the amp to power the components and then use the rear channels to power a sub? All I need is 3 channels right?

 

If your amp can bridge out of four channels (it should) , you should be fine with that setup. I'm actually running a 4 channel and biamping a set of Boston 6.53s (work in progress)

 

You are right. If your amp allows you to run 3 channels. Some may not. Also I was under the impression that you were going to bridge your amp to run just 2 channels instead of 3. If you bridged it to 2 you would get the most stereo(2channel) power out of your amp which is what I thought you were doing. By running 3 channels you just get less power than running 2. Are you trying to avoid getting another amp?

 

Hmm, ok you've talked me out of half-a$$ing it. So if I bridge a 4 channel amp to 2 channels, it will still be in stereo? I thought the specs showed it would be mono? I'm probably gonna pick up the components today. Maybe I'll even go for the Z6 now and hold off on the sub...

 

i thought about doing that so I could do 1 amp, but I couldn't find a 4 channel that was stable at 2 ohms bridged on any pair... So, I went with a mono sub amp, and am using the 4 channel for the fronts (well, 3 way components)

 

Where are you mounting the 4" woofer?

 

Well I've ordered the 6.5 pros. I think I'm going back to the original plan. At 3 ohms nominal, the components should be getting around 100watts per channel (assuming this new PPI is up to the task) which should be enough power for me. And I believe if I bridge the two rears it will be 300 watts at 2 ohms right? So would a single JL w6v2 wired for 2 ohms work? Or will I end up melting the amp? Or should I get two single voice coil 10's and wire them whatever way works best. If I did this I'd probably get w3s just to save some $...

Any help is appreciated!

 

I dunno if the amp is 2 ohm stable or not: I had trouble finding many 4 channels that were. Most mono or 2 channel amps can handle it, tho.

I am mounting the 4" mid and tweets in the door (made an adaptor), the 6s behind my head, and the 10 next to the spare tire.

Damne, by tomorrow, the fiberglass on the sub box should be done, and I should be finishing the wiring for the second door. This project has taken me forever!

 

Damne, by tomorrow, the fiberglass on the sub box should be done, and I should be finishing the wiring for the second door. This project has taken me forever! [/B][/QUOTE]
I would go with a 10W3V2 if you are only using 1 amp. The W6 and W7 are to power hungry. Keep your eyes on your amp and make sure it doesn't burn up. Let me know how it turns out.

You will definitely get stereo when bridging a 4 channel amp to 2 channels. A 4 channel amp into 3 channels????

 

Well I'm back and forth...still waiting on all my stuff.

What do you think about putting another set of Boston ProSeries 6.5 components in the rear doors and setting the tweeter to the lowest crossover setting (in the rear only)?

Would this help me keep some of my imaging up front? This way I could fully use the 4 channel amp and then later on I can get another mono amp to power a sub.

 

If anytihng, I would just order another set of the 6.5 woofers, not the whole set, and run that with a 4 channel and a mono amp on the sub, but I really think with a set of 6.5s up front, you 'd be fine powering them with a 2 or bridged 4 channel amp, and amono on the sub.

 

Thanks.

Yeah I might be able to pick up a slightly used set for cheap, that would be the only reason I'd get them.