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Track edition stereo sucks... upgrade path?

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Old 07-12-2004, 11:01 AM
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phunk
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Default Track edition stereo sucks... upgrade path?

i cannot stand how amazingly CRAPPY the stereo sounds in this car. I want to get some more bass, and some more volume without all the distortion.

does the head unit have to go? can i just ugprade the speakers and put a sub in the factory spot? im assuming the stock head unit doesnt have a sub preout tho.

i dunno, i dont want anything crazy show style, i just need recommendation on what i should put in there... which speakers, sub, amp, and do i really need a new head unit?

thanks guys
Old 07-12-2004, 12:55 PM
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jasonintoronto
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i'm investigating the exact same thing. ideally i would like to keep the stock headunit.

what was recommended to me was a JL audio amp (300/4) and upgrading the door speakers (i'm tempted to use MB Quart) and add a sub to the stock location. they recommended not doing anything to the stock rear speakers and keep them driven off of the stock headunit.
Old 07-12-2004, 02:15 PM
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RoadRagerInTherapy
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Originally posted by jasonintoronto
i'm investigating the exact same thing. ideally i would like to keep the stock headunit.

what was recommended to me was a JL audio amp (300/4) and upgrading the door speakers (i'm tempted to use MB Quart) and add a sub to the stock location. they recommended not doing anything to the stock rear speakers and keep them driven off of the stock headunit.

Does the stock unit have pre-amp outputs?
Old 07-12-2004, 02:18 PM
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pburgh
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no, you'll need a line converter if you want to amp the doors or rear.

Navone Engineering

I use the NE-774V (newer version of the 774V). The Audiolink PD4 will also work well.
Old 07-12-2004, 03:24 PM
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In the midst of doing a rather large upgrade on a friend's Z. I replaced the head with an Alpine CDA-9833 and a level matching device made by Metra (To match the Bose level with the 4 ohm output from the deck.). It seems that it is fine for now. The D/A converter alone has increased the quality of sound despite the fact that the stock speakers are powered by the stock amp. My friend will be upgrading the mids/tweets as well with Focal and the 4 channel amp will be Alpine. This will be next month or so.

I added in two 10" subs for under the rear support bar and now the bass is controlled throught the deck. Unhooking the factory sub solved some cancellation issues as well associated with multiple-positioned/sized/powered drivers.

I will have pictures soon for anyone who may be interested in a similar set-up.
Old 07-12-2004, 04:25 PM
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mofoz
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I would suggest first asking yourself how much you want to spend, and if that includes install. If money isnt really a problem, but you dont want to go crazy, this is what im doing. Infinity Perfect 6.1s(100watts) up front. Infinity 6002i Rears(nothing crazy, just powered from HU) Alpine 9835 HU(could replace with something cheaper, i just like the display) JL Audio 10W6v2 Subwoofer(400watts) powered by a Phoenix gold 400x1 amp. The fronts are powered by another Phoenix Gold amp 100x2. All this will cost close to $1500. Install is about $900 with custom fiberglass box in stock location(keeps what little trunk space we have), dynamat, and cables. This will be an awesome system. Just my thoughts. You can get a cheaper sub like a kicker, and then you wont need the expensive amp. It all depends on the $$$$$. Good luck.
Old 07-12-2004, 05:23 PM
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maxipad96
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Cheapest route:

1. Infinity Bass link in the stock location.
Upgraded Components up front.
Small Amp to power components.
DYNAMAT for sub area.
FINISHED

2. upgrade from there by adding/substituting
4 channel amp instead of 2
Rear 6.5" Coaxils
New Head unit.

3. upgrade from there by adding/substituting
Infinity Basslink w/ custom 10 JLw6

Its all about preference. You could go with the first option and have a great sounding system compared to the bose and base.

-Steve
Old 07-12-2004, 05:56 PM
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dimitri
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what i did was replace all 4 corners with mb quart /replace head unit with alpine also took stock sub and closed off from the other side from the inside and filled with expandable foam to create some kind of enclosure which worked pretty well then bought pioner 10 free air and stock bose cover ...the car dont knock but i tell you want sounds sweet........my 2 cnts
Old 07-12-2004, 06:22 PM
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The Brickyard Rat
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http://www.350zfrenzy.com/forum/show...ighlight=stero
Old 07-12-2004, 06:27 PM
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leemik
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The first thing I did was add an Infinity Basslink.. This improved the bass significantly... but then by adding the sub I noticed that the fronts were totally lacking in midrange and there was so much simbilance in the treble .. The stock tweeter sounded so harsh at high volumes..

So, I drop in a set of infinity 6000CS components (driven by the radio, no amp). Highs much smoother and cleaner.. This greatly improved the sound quality! Most people could stop here and be totally fine.. but over time I noticed that the midrange is still missing and the tone controls on the stock head unit do nothing to improve matters. plus my xbox sounded like crap through the FM modulator..

Soooooo, I drop in a new head unit (still no amp at this point) and after some tweaking, I'm COMPLETELY satisfied with the results!

Work in progess shot


The head unit is a Pioneer FH P5000MP
...and all the audio cost me less than $900.. installed by myself.. I didn't bother changing the rears...

--mike
Old 07-13-2004, 10:16 AM
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jasonintoronto
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Originally posted by leemik
So, I drop in a set of infinity 6000CS components (driven by the radio, no amp).
the components driven by the stock headunit? did the sound improve? did you need spacers for the speakers?
Old 07-13-2004, 11:45 AM
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leemik
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Yes, the stock non-bose head unit drove them fine.. I thought they actually played a little louder than the stock speakers that was in there..

As for the spacer.. I just followed the advice of people here. The stock speaker was integrated with a spacer.. all I did was cut the speaker out (pretty much destroyed it) using a dremel.. popped the new speaker in and screwed it down..

For the tweeter, I just put some double sided tape in to secure it to the "bracket" (you'll know what i mean when you get the door opened up )

Do a search here on "front speaker" and you'll find the tutorial..

--mike
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