Guys,

I just stopped by a local chain electronic store (good guys) to check out the stereo stuff.

Anyways, my first initial thought of looking at the 4 gauge was that it was huge!! Anybody have problems running it through the firewall and on the side passenger underneath the carpet?

Right now I have a 10 gauge for just the bassllink. I like to get another amp for the four speakers. From what I remember, the firewall was tight already with the 10 gauge.

Also, the installer suggested anybody running an amp needs a capcitator. Is this true? How many of you run multipe amps without one? Any side affects on the Z?

Thanks,
Tony

 

4 guage is easy to run, try 2 or 0/1 if you want a challenge.

Also, capacitors are just band aid's. A better idea is to get a more powerful battery, alternator, or add a second battery.

Don't waste your money on a cap when for just a little bit more money you can actually fix the problem.

 

xxlbeerZ,

So if I am running a basslink and a small amp (200-300 watts) with stock stuff would do it?


Tony

 

Im running 0/1 gauge and no problems running it at all.

I think I have speaker wire thicker than 10 gauge

But if you are thinking of running a 2nd amp, have you thought about running a 4 gauge wire and then use a distribution block then spit off to each amp?

A basslink and a 4ch amp is not going to draw that much power and a 4 gauge should do.

As for a cap, the salesman i can tell you right now is full of it, and just trying to make a buck. Lets say your lights dim when a bass note hits, its cause the amp is drawing a lot of power from the battery/alternator. It dims because its trying to get the amp the power it needs, kinda like "charging" it, probably not the right term but im keeping it simple. Now you add a capacitor to the system. When a bass note hits it pulls power from the capacitor and the battery/alternator now. Now the car's charging system has both the amp and the cap to "charge". The lights are still going to dim with a cap. If you are worried about lights dimming then invest in a dry cell, I guarantee you it will work much much better than a cap if you have problems with lights dimming. A cap is usefull when the car absolutely cannot give the amps enough power/amperage that the amps will actually shutdown/turn it self off, that is when a cap is usefull. A cap will help the amp get the power/amperage that it is looking for. Now am I running a cap? Yup, its cause I'm doing shows here and there and I said why the hell not, throw it in.

Tony PM me if you have any questions and if you want to talk to a stereo place that wont try to sell you BS and make you buy stuff you dont need I have a place you can go to. They arent the cheapest or most expensive either, but its quality.

 

caps are far from band-aids. They're light, easy to install, faster for releasing energy than any battery, and the bass hitting won't shock your electrical system. It also acts as a power filter removing any inconsistencies in the power stream. The result is a cooler, more efficient amplifier.

 

Anytime you go to two amps I'd say 4 gauge split into two 8 gauge wires is pretty standard, even if they are low power. The only real other alternative is to run two individual 8 or 10 gauge wires from the battery to the amps, but that's more hassle than just doing the 4 gauge.

The guys explanation above is pretty good about caps, they MAY keep you sounding alright (a lot of times they aren't much help anyway), but they don't fix the problem of your electrical system being up to the task.

Anytime I see someone running a cap I think to myself if they were going to throw away money, why not just give it to me.

 

Thanks Beer and Boosted!

I haven't bought the distribution block package yet. But from the details of it, there is a ground cable for it too right? And where ever the power is distributing to the amp or basslink, you still need to ground it for each device (has its own)? I just want to plan ahead. If that is the case, can two grounds meet at the same location? My brother is an electricians I don't even ask him. You guys are good.


On a side note. I just use the rear speakers to tap into the basslink. My HU just power the rear. The amp will probably power just the front Infinity Perfect so there will be no need to throw money to get the CAP.

Tony

 

Yes each devise needs its own ground.
Grounding at the same location "may" cause interference, Im not 100% on that but if it does cause interference then just move it, shouldnt be a big deal.

 

I never ground to the same spot because you want the ground to be as short as possible. I ground somewhere right near the mounting of the individual amp.

Your wire kit may or may not come with a short piece or two of 8 gauge ground wire for each amp. Really, I've noticed it depends on the cost and quality of brand of the kit.

Try cruising/searching some audio forums and you can find some really good deals on wire kits. www.soundillusions.net www.soundomain.com and some others will list some good wire sites.

 

I ground both my amps at the same spot and have no problems. I use 4 gauge from battery to distribution block then split into 4 gauge for each amp. The lights dim if i turn it up loud when the car isn't running but no problems when it is running. You shouldn't have any problems. Don't forget to get a fuse at the battery and then individual fuses for each wire after the distribution block.

 

Guys,

Since we are at this subject. What amount of amp(fuse) do I need for the fuse holder. Lets say my amp needs two fuses of 30 amp each (60) and the basslink is 20 amp. Do I need to get a fuse holder of at least 90? Can I live with it being 60 amp?


thanks,
Tony

 

Bad math, should it be at least 80?

Tony

 

Just my .02 cents.

The best result you will have is with an upgraded battery, Try upgrading the one uder the hood first (dry-Cell), Stay away from Optima red-Tops. Get the Yellow top or any other dry cell like Orbital or anyone elses. Stay with a Highest cranking power you can get. Now just upgrading the battery is not enough. You MUST upgrade the Ground cable under the hood. Thicker the better. You have a wek link there if you are not matching it with the rest of the system. Think of it like a circle made out of 4 ga. cable and you have an 8 ga. in th emiddle of it. Well you just waisted all that 4 ga. (kind of like having a 2" exhaust system with a 4" Muffler).

Second best result would be having a second battery in the trunk or dedicated for stereo, there are relays yu can gt that will switch the system back and forth. Or you may choose to run both batteries with and isolater.

Caps do help, However you must have a healty charging system. If you have enough charging to keep up with the system, Cap will help the amp work more comfortable. Some of the caps to stay away from is the cheap ones. They will actualy do more damage then good. Some caps out there with 15-50 Farad capacity I have seen do amazing improvements, Again if you have the charging system upgraded they will help, But unless you are competing for SPL (Sound pressure level) You propably will not need it.

Stressing the upgrade for you factory ground. Change or add a 4 ga or 0 ga cable to your factory ground while you are changing the battery and you will notice a difference.

Nazar

 

waht can i do to keep my amps cooler? My bass amp overheats after 1-2 hrs of driving. DONT tell me to turn it down either.... i cant hear anymore, but i can read lips better now!

my amps are mounted behind the glove boxes(i now have one in driver and passenger seat). They are mounted at 45% angle, suspended from ceiling of metal enclosure. Then glove box insert is placed in there(you can see why they are hot, no room). But the suspended from ceiling is keeping them down in temp.

What should i do? fan system? In front I could put a fan sucking in rear of area, one blowing(we like that action here!?).....circulating air?

i cant hear anymore, but i can read lips better now!

 

are the heat sinks higher than the amp? i have 2 on top of each other and have no probs. I would say get a fan for it.

 

Vivid,

Do i actually need to get individual fuse holder for each device after the distribution block? I got the (non fused) distribution block. Wouldn't the fuse from the amps itself be enough? If i need individual fuse, would i get the same amount as from the device?

Also, I am planning to put the amps in the glove compartment behind the passenger, any idea where I should place the distribution block.

I will have just one amp for now to power my sub ( i am getting rid of the basslink), but will get another one in a few months for the four speakers.

Edit: Do I need to ground the car battery again using the amp kit wire (i read somewhere that it should)?

Tony

 

I ran 1/0 gauge...had to run it under the car...

 

that sucks, I ran mine through the car...through a wire direction system provided by Nissan