ZRACING

can u guys show me how to Dynamatt front and back speakers???

how much will i need to buy

100 square feet for 99$ right

which is better brand???

is fat mat okay???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...715653409&rd=1

do u guys have any pix or installation info??

thanx a million

i can't live w/ out Dynamatt

Audio maniac freak

ZRACING

S.O.S

insane350z

Had my whole cabin/ cargo area done about 6 months ago. I feel like I'm riding in a porsche now.

I used Dynamat Xtreme® which is a butyl and aluminum vibration damper. It conforms and fuses easily to sheet metal and other hard substrates. It can be installed anywhere including under hood.

Dynamat Xtreme® is 1.12mm (44mil) thick, weighs 0.45lb/sq. ft. comes as nine (9) 18" x 32" pieces per package for a total of 36 sq. ft.

MRSP is $249.95 + shipping (I paid $150 per 36 sq ft bundle + tax & labor and it took 3 packages to do the car)

So it has added approx 50 lbs to the car and robbed me of 8 hp but it was worth it.

ZRACING

did u do the door????

how does it sound????

xxlbeerZ

iTrader: (8)

Dynamat is a rip off, fat mat is ok. Brown bread, edead, second skin, etc. are all pretty good for the price.

Just search some audio sites, they'll have pictoral instructions.

1. Remove everything down to the metal 2. Cut piece to pretty much the shape you want it.
3. Remove just a little line of the plastic away from the sticky stuff, stick in position.
4. Begin applying a little heat with a heat gun and slowly push down using your hand with gloves or a screen roller. Remove the plastic little by little as you go down the line and keep sticking.
5. Repeat.

I've done multiple layers in some trucks and luxury cars, but sound deadening a sports car sounds pretty stupid. To lay enough to hear a difference adds too much weight (The last vehicle I did, Dodge Ram quad cab, used 300sq. ft to get decent results, plus a hood/firewall liner).

Just buy like 50sq.ft and put it in the immediate vicinity of the speaker or where you hear rattles.

peanuthead

What are you looking to get out of the sound deadening mat? I have used dynamat, dynamat extreme, brown bread and fatmat and I would advise against the dynamat extreme. It's just too friggin' expensive.

Fatmat or Brown Bread can work just as good and can be used in layers. 2 Layers of FatMat was just as efficient as 1 layer of dynamat extreme and much, much cheaper. Regular dynamat is garbage, don't waster your money. You might wanna look into getting expanding foam if it's just to get rid of rattles.

I also usually get some felt dots from wal-mart to get rid of license plate rattle. Go get a package of felt dots from wal-mart in the sewing/fabric section. Stick them behind the license plate so that the plate doesn't have space to flex and wa-la . . . no more license plate rattle.

insane350z

I did the entire cabin plus expanding foam in strut bar enclosure. Like I said it made a enough of a difference that I am glad I did it. There's just as much time in removing and reinstalling the interior as installing the stuff. In exchange for the quiet ride I can live with small loss of hp due to added weight. Hell if I was that concerned with 8 hp I'd just lose the weight but it gives me the excuse to mod the engine now.

Good luck.

Farrakhan

I bought 72 square feet of dynomat extreme for $200 bucks for my g35c and was able to do both doors, entire trunk, entire back seat and rear tire wells and foot area of driver and passenger side.

EAsily worth it imho. Stock blose sounds much better, and now when I go from street traffic to highway I don't have to turn up the stereo.

If you look on ebay or internet retailer you'll be able to find extreme for decent price...

Z-Z

I used the Dynamat Xtreme "Door kit" and put it in when I upgraded my front speakers. The door kit had just about the perfect amount to door both doors completely (w/ a lttle left over). It cost me about $90, and I can tell the differernce in the quieter ride. I'll be doing the whole back of the car soon.

ZRACING

wow lots of good replies

Thank u all

any of u have pix????

i want to do both front door speakers and rear 6.5 speakers plus trunk space???

will 100 sq feet be enough???

thanx again

BoostTed

Farrakhan

Here are my pics of g35c set-up (will give you good idea of how much $72 square feet gives ya):



backseat



door



trunk



..trunk



passanger side foot area

ZRACING

wow

thanx u

but i need pix for Z

Farrakhan

Just wanted to give you an idea of how much 72 square feet is. Its quite alot, and my guess is that is plenty for a Z condisering how much I was able to do with my g35c.

I believe the first pics above mine are Z...

xxlbeerZ

iTrader: (8)

Man those pics show how to lay down sound deadening the ugliest way possible. I cut mine to fit the panels. There's a lot of places in those pics where it's not even stuck down completely.

hndumafia

iTrader: (10)

for those of you that have dynamated (i use that loosely it could be any brand of stuff) your doors, what is your plan if your window motor stops working.

i got one of the large packs of dynamat extreme for free so i applied it all over the trunk and i was going to do the doors but i'm worried the dealer wont be able to get to the window motor. and i definitely feel the most exterior sound that gets in the Z is from the doors and around the firewall (foot area).

dannichols

For me an E-bay 36 sq ft Dynamat extreme kit worked wonders. Cost about $120. I concentrated on areas around the speakers and areas where noise emenated from the tires (everything else is overkill in my opinion). Behind Front kick panels, below front car mat areas, lower area of doors. Put most behind seats, inside and below speaker, glove box and rear kick panel areas. Around the inside rear wheel wells and a little in the trunk to complement what was already there. Areas that already had moderate sound deadening I left alone (like the trunk which has big carpeted mat above it.

Also sprayed good quality sound deadener in the wheel wells after I took out all of the plastic covers there and taped off for overspray.

Total weight addition was about 20lbs including spray. Made a world of difference, can speak to my g/f without screaming, hear the stereo without blasting it, my 10" alpine sub doesn't rattle, and talk on the cell phone while on the highway. May have slightly decreased perf. but then again this isn't a race car it's an everyday sports car........and it still is.

xxlbeerZ

iTrader: (8)

Leaving the holes is a good idea for the reason you describe. Like I said the way it's done in the pics above is pretty bad.

It's tough, but I usually mat the OUTER door skin first. The part on the other side of the window, it's flat so while being kind of difficult to get to in some cars, it's easy to deaden. The benefit here is this will stop 10x more road noise and door vibrations than matting just the inside.

Next I cut to fit the inner door skin leaving the holes but wrapping around to the backside where I can. This more or less just stops vibrations (interior rattles). Putting it under the wires, and on the plastic side doesn't hurt either.

I do admit, my installs used to look ghetto (a big sheet just laid across the doors), but when you play with it a bit over many installs, you learn than you're not making the most of the stuff when you take the easy route.

IMO, if you're going to just slap a sheet across the inner door skin and floorboard, not really taking the time to fit it right or put enough layers, you'd be better served just spending the money on something else (higher output amp, better head unit, etc.)

The stuff does work if installed right, but a lot of times it also has a placebo effect. Like a guy who gets a new exhaust and while it adds zero power he thinks he's faster due to the noise, people think that since they added a tiny amount of dynamat to they're ride all of a sudden they hear a miracle....

Farrakhan

I used a roller and there are no spots where it isn't flush with the metal. It really isn't rocket sciene. Double pad the rear wheel wells. I agree that probably not worth it if your just not doing 15 square feet. But 72 square feet (what I did), and you are doing a large amount of the car...

With my install, the before and after was incredibly noticeable. Its not sound-proof like a Bentley, but I almost have lexus-like sound noise (i.e, not much). Also, I have 10w7 with a 500/1 pushing it (i.e., mucho bass), and I get ZERO rattle.

The key difference is going from street traffic to freeway driving. Before dynomat, I always had to turn up the stereo when I got on the on-ramp. That's a thing of the past...

ZRACING

wow


thanx everyone

i learned alot from this