swoobyz

I've finally built the enclosure that I want.
T'was very simple, I had just never set aside the time to do it.
Here are the results:




0.664 cubic feet.
I don't think I can squeeze much more out of that space using a 3/4" wood enclosure (I would have to go 1/2" or fiberglass).

THEORETICALLY it fits like a charm, but it is very difficult to mount in the car so I am holding off the final mounting until I pick out a subwoofer and get it hooked up.

Hopefully I will only have to fiddle with this guy ONCE!
If I ever have to take it out I may just tear it apart and rebuild a new one.
It took me a whole day to build from scratch.
I should be able to build a new one in less time now that I have plans.

I have not picked a subwoofer yet.
Should I go 8"?
8"x2?

10" (facing down)?


What's good for 0.664 cubic feet?
Should I port the box? (I think it is too small to port)

Pv

stu46

a jl 10w6v2 sealed would be perfect. iirc, a ported enclosure required almost double the air space.

tractng

iTrader: (9)

swoobyz,

Very nice!!! I am in the process of making the box too. Right now, I have the basslink there, so I cannot get an actual measurement of it. I am using card-board for a prototype. Once I get back from vaction next week, I will do it (like you say, setting the time aside is hard).

Have you considered not using the metal bracket? First I thought it was to keep the car rigid because it had a lot of screws, but reading posts from members here, they say no.

Whats the max height, width, and dept?
My rough estimate is 16inc (width) X 9 (height) x 12 depth.

I am thinking of getting an Infinity Perfect 10.1d

Edit: It will be harder to put a 10 inch and have an angle like yours. You will need at least a 12inch front (a steep angle), in which the magnet might not fit.

Tony

swoobyz

The metal bracket makes things so easy to mount.
How else would you plan to mount it?
I never counted on the bracket being structural.
One of those pics shows the INSIDE dimensions:
13.25"D x 6"H x 17.375"W
Outside would be:
14.75"D x 7.5"H x 18.875"W
I will eventually post a full CAD of the enclosure, but only after I know for certain that it fits.
If I go 10" it will face straight down like I show in my CAD image [above].
I don't know how well these things like being face down fighting gravity.
I think the cone itself is pretty light and it's just the [immobile] magnet that's heavy.
I may try it anyways just to know for a fact, unless several people tell me it is an absolutely horrible idea.

That, or the JL 10w6v2.
Any other suggestions?

Let me know if you are having any problems with the photos!

Pv

swoobyz

The 10w6v2 requires 6.9" of mounting depth.
I only have 6.5", and that would push it right to the top of the box.

FYI: They do make downward firing sub enclosures, so hopefully being face down won't be an issue.
We'll see!

I bought an Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 just to see how it works out.

Pv

fillup

For mounting I used angle brackets bent flat and attached to the bolt holes left from the removal of the factory plate. I dynamatted the floor to ensure no rattles. You can gain about .25 to .30 more cubic footage by sloping the back of the box towards the trunk. this applies for the roadster not sure about the coupe. I used an additional layer of mdf on the face to make a spacer which allowed for front firing of the speaker.

tractng

iTrader: (9)

swoobyz,

When you saying facing downward, do really it is facing upward?

Fillup,

Good point. I am thinking of doing a slope too to just get more space. Is your sub directed at the driver or is pointing upward?

Tony

swoobyz

How do you mount the back of the enclosure?
Or, is it fully mounted to the front and it just hangs free in the back?

I have it using the stock mounting bracket (top and bottom).

I thought about dropping the bottom another inch or two, but it would have been more complex geometry and [I think] would have made mounting a 10" more difficult.
It's almost the max height that will fit through the front mounting hole/slot.

Pv

swoobyz

No, I mean facing downward.
The CAD image [above] shows the concept I am going for.

Are there problems w/ my pics or something?

Pv

swoobyz

FYI, you can pick up an extra 10" subwoofer bracket at:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=

$27

Pv

stu46

as long as there's room for woofer excursion, there should't be a problem with that design. you will sacrifice a lot of sound quality.

swoobyz

What do you mean by "you will sacrifice a lot of sound quality"?

Do you mean because I am facing the woofer down?
How much is "a lot"?

I agree that this is probably not the idea location or type of enclosure.
I just wanted to give it a try.

What specifically about this design will harm sound quality?

This box cost me $15 + some sweat to build.
I spend $120 on the woofer which I could resell for a small loss (aka: "learning tax").

If I don't like the end results I may break down and get a Nazaar box.

Pv

stu46

Because the sound has nowhere to go. it will be muffled. i had a similar setup with my silverado. i had 2 10w6v2 ported firing down. it was loud because it was ported, just wasn't clean bass. since the w6v2 doesn't fit, i would go with the infinity. but if you're gonna go with nazars box incase, you can try the w6v2. i know he makes a box for that sub.

it also depends on how much you're looking to get out of the sub. 1 sealed 10 won't be too loud. if you're looking for a little more bass, it should do.

platium11

nice looking box,would like to know how it sounds after installed

motown

Damn, that box looks great! If it were me, I'd build a 2nd box to go on the other side and get 4 8's. But that's just me, I'm crazy like that. Or better still, 2 8's on the one side adn one 10 on the other. Tune each enclosure differently, the downfiring 10 for ultra low frequencies and the 2 8's for your 60 - 100 htz. Just a thought... Good luck either way!

fillup

My baffle plate is at the same angle as the factory mounting bracket. I had to slightly round of the face of the box and carve of the plastic ribs on the back of the factory sub cover to make a tight fit but it worked well.

I had made provisions for using the L bracket attached to the rear deck but it turned out that by resting the box on a layer of dynamat and attaching it to the existing face of sheet metal the was no vibration and the box was dampened well enough to sound tight.

Imagine another layer of mdf (baffle board) over the existing face of your box. this extra layer mounts on the exterior face of the sheet metal and allows for extra width for the sub. It requires fiber glassing the joint between the baffle and box but it works very well and is full stealth once complete.
I can send pics and schematics next week when my car is out of the shop. I ultimately developed .96 cubic feet and very low deflection so I am pretty happy.

swoobyz

I will attempt to install it Friday and see if it actually fits!

Pv

stu46

good luck. hope it all works out.

motown

Wow, that looks GREAT! Just curious, how are you going to bolt the rear bracket into the stock rear glove box retainer bolts? Again, the box looks killer! Good luck!

Hazade

iTrader: (8)

i've always been a fan of the kappa perfects