I need help with my audio setup. I'm interested in improving the sound of my Base model audio system, but would like to retain the OEM head unit. This NEW setup would include an existing amp and sub w/box from my old car. I'm trying to maintain a budget while doing all of this, approx. $400 or less. I'm not an "audio pro" so I don't need the most expensive equipment. I just want some depth and improved sound over stock. I'm pretty good at installing things, but I'm not the most tech savie when it comes to the latest equipment.

Note: I have a Crunch V-150 amp that powered my old sub. I've been very happy with it and was interested in powering my two new component speakers with another new Crunch amp.

First question: Those that have swaped out the front speakers. Did you notice a huge difference in sound? To me the stock sounds OK, but I haven't heard a before and after obviously. I realize these are the main speakers so it would only make sense to get something good.

Second question: Should my AMP (rms) power be equal, less, or more than my component speaker (rms)? I don't have a clue...

Third question: Does anyone know how many watts you can pull from your OEM battery before it harms it or your alternator? My current selection of amps would draw approx. 650w (rms).

Thanks for the help
Zquicksilver


ps this is where i may buy most of my stuff and hopefully i can save on sh & h.

http://store.yahoo.com/csexpo/index.html

 

1. That depends on the components you put in. Go to a stereo shop and listen to as many sets as possible. Also, bring down your favorite cd and listen to it. Then you can get a set that sounds good to you.

2. It should be close. Around +/-10%.

3. Not sure, good question. I'm running 1200 watts RMS, and that's way underrated. No problems yet.

HTH.

 

Keep in mind even though you total system is capable of 650W rms, you in no way are actually running that number. Unless you listen to music at full volume, you are not using any where close to all 650W RMS.

 

Good point... I looked at the overall max rating of the amps and realized I would not be anywhere near that. I guess, only knowing so much about the techinical stuff, that the RMS was a close to accurate constant rate of watts. That's just what I thought, but when I think about it your absolutely right. On average it's probably half of that, right?

 

Replace those door speakers, it makes a huge difference...

and please put something other then those f@#$#$ infinity whatever perfect blah blahb labhalbha everyone puts in their cars. Do something different.

I would suggest getting an amp rated over the maximum power handling the speakers suggest and turning the amp down to as to meet the power handling evenly. This allows for less distorted, cleaner power.

Im running 1200watts rms, no problems from my alternator.

 

Ahsmo,

thanks for the input

What would you suggest for component speakers. Something for around $210 that's just as good, because that's how much those blah, blah,blah are going to cost me.

ps for whatever reason, I can't seem to post jack for illustrations of my set up?????

 

$400 should be more than enough if all you are buying is a mediocre 4xamp, two 6.5 speakers, and maybe some hi/lo converters.

 

That's what I thought

Infin 6.1s.............................$200
Crunch-200rms@4ohms......$100
Convert...............................$18
StngAmpkt w/rca's..............$25
Sting 1.5f cap......................$60
100sq Fatmat......................$100

SUB,AMP,BOX.......................Free

Sweet sytem........................$503

ok, so I was $103 over budget...

 

OK, so yu didn't mentioin Fatmat before...or did you?? Anyway, he amp kit looks inexpensive, is it 4 gauge to dual 8 gauge with a dist box? Sure you need a Cap?

 

I originally went with a stock HU system: to dual hi-lo converters and two alpine amps (f240 M350) with 4 gauge wire. Installed (4) Rockford Power 6.5's and single 10" Alpine sub in custom box. 50 sq ft Dynamat Extreme and wheel well undercoating too. Hated the sound..eventually replaced head unit to provide cleaner/more tailorable signal than the converters can ever produce.

 

skip the cap, its not needed with the z charging system...

go with some focal polykevlars or a.d.s compents, I just got my latest and best set of components off ebay for 170. They are better then infinity 6.1s I promise you.

 

I didn't mention the FatMat...

The amp kit isn't bad for the money... (ST4 Stingpro 4G wire, 800watts, 80amp gold plated AGU fuse) with many other 4G goodies included and Triple shield w/ built-in remote wire RCA.

A stinger cap for $60, maybe worth the long term effects on the battery and alternator??? not sure?


Looks like you have a nice setup

 

thanks for the advice on the components. i will definitely check them out!

 

and dont forget, you wont join the masses of people with infinity speakers lol

 

Well, I installed 2/3 of the FatMat and what a difference. I tore all the paneling out of the back and lined it with the material. I triple layered the wheel wells and placed a double layer underneath the spare wheel. HUGE difference! No more pinging and or grit/sand blowing noise. I'm getting ready to line both of the compartments behind the seat and triple up on the wheel wells in there too. I have so much of this stuff I think I might also try and seal up the rear speaker compartments from the inside. This will create a better sound from the rears I hope.

I need help on this...I plan on swapping out the stock rears with the current stock fronts. I want to run the front power line supply from the HU to the rear since it's a more powerful signal. Then tap in with Converter at that point and run it to the AMP which will power the new 6.1's in front. Sorry if this is a little confusing.
Are the front OEM speakers more powerful than the OEM rears?
I realize I will no longer have adjustability from front to back, but most of the sound is absorbed by the seats anyway. I still figure the 6.1's in front will out power and over compensate for sound compared to the newly installed rears. Help...opinions??

If I'm going this far with the whole setup a little swapping is no big deal.

 

Sorry for not going back through this, but what is your current setup (H/U, amps, speakers)? I ripped out everything stock a long time ago, but I do remember the resistance of the fronts and backs were different (I think the backs were very high ohm like 32 resulting in a very muffled output).

Good deal with the matting, I noticed the same difference. I also think brushing/spraying on soundproofing in the OUTER wheel wells is important. Those rocks will then be hitting thick rubber instead of metal.

Why not get a cheap pair of E-bay speakers instead of swapping the front to the rear. I use my rears at about 30% compared to front..but they are still important for rounding out sound.

 

I use zero rear fill it is not needed, dont waste your time...


It took me throwing 400 dollar speakers in the back to realize this...

 

Really? I can't seem to get enough response from my fronts to warrant not having the rears on a little bit. Another thing..how do you have your EQ set on your H/U? What I mean is do you find yourself pumping up any particular frequencies, setting others lower, or leaving everything flat?

 

Because like asmo said, the back speakers are just filler. I think rather than throwing away the fronts or giving them away, I will just put them in the back.

This is what I'm doing.

-OEM base HU.
-New component fronts.
-OEM front speakers to OEM rear position.
-One sub in the OEM compartment.
-Two amps, one powering the sub and one powering the front
compoents.
-OEM front speakers to OEM rear position are powered by the HU.
-TSUNAMI (premium line output converter) is tapped into the the speaker wire running from the HU to the back.
-Output converter is directing info via RCA cables to the amps.
-Fresh speaker wire is running power to all new after market speakers from the amps.

-HU "fader" adjusted all the way to the front.

Will this work?

 

I think I tried something similar to this when I first got the car and was upset by the sound quality. Here's what I did:

- Original setup
STOCK Non-Bose HU
(4) new coax 6.5"s to replace stock
10" Alpine sub in strut tower enclosure
Two Alpine amps. 1 4 channell, one mono
new wiring to amps and to all speakers
dual tsunami hi/lo converters to RCA's to Amps
Lots of soundproofing and dampening material

-- This system definitely worked and was a big improvement over stock. I am almost certain I could have left the stock speakers in the back and the original wiring running from the HU to them and it would have also worked..BUT the backs are designed for 32Ohm speakers and I think the fronts are 4 or 8 ohm (I may be wrong)..even at low volumes this may not be a good thing for the HU or the rear speakers.

-- After about 2 weeks of the above setup I came to the conclusion that the whole thing sounded much more inferior than I could handle. Everyone I talked to mentined the problems inherent with Hi/lo conversion, the noise, and the limited head unit. I ended up ripping out the stock HU and replacing with high-end Kenwood with 3 pre-outs 5V. I also replaced the 10" strut box with a 12" MBQ in the tire-well. I am much happier with the sound now except the 6.5"s couls still stand an upgrade perhaps to Infinity or MBQ. I cutoff the fronts anf rears with a high-pass crossover at 80herts and have them set to about 90%front 10% rear. The sub is set at 80hertz Low pass.

So I guess it is all up to hat sounds good and is exceptable to you. You may find your proposed system suits every need..or it may be a waste of time like it was for me becuase you may just end up ripping it all out again.