Hello All,

I have 04' tourning with bose and I plan on redoing my whole system over. I would like your thoughts and recommendations on my ideas.

System Componets:

Kenwood DX7015 (HU)
Kenwood DV4100 (Navi that integrates into the HU)
Kenwood KTCHR100 (Sirus HD reciever)
Kenwood SR103 (External amplified speaker for voice navi) If needed
7inch LCD (recommendations please)
Infinity Kappa 62.5 (read below)
2 10inch subs (recommendations please)
Amps (recommendation please how many and what kind)
crossovers ( do i really need them)
dynomat (is it a good idea??)
Mod Xbox
Parrot bluetooth system

Thinking about 4 Infinity Kappa 62.5 for front and back....not sure if I would need rear speaker if i'm getting a 2x10inch enclosuer(under strut) from wicked. Also to try and save some money which of these componets should I do the install myself. I've never done this before but I can follow directions pretty with electronics. If i've left anything out that I might need please advise.

Thanks

 

Have heard great things. Excellent choice. I'll look at the 7015 next spring when I replace my head unit.
Don't know anything about this. I am looking into re-connecting my nav voice too. Like the sound of her voice, but that's for another post...
Doesn't the 7015 have a large enough screen? What are you planning on using this for?
So long as these are not coaxial's they're fine for the front. Coax's for the rear are OK, but the front speakers should be a component system with seperate woofer, tweeter and passive crossover. If you're obsessive about sound, think about spending some extra cash here. I would recommend Boston Acoustics (what I have), ADS, MB Quart, or if you're really obsessive, Morel or Focal.
I think you're on the right track here with Nazar (Wicked)'s enclosure. I do think you should look at his side boxes as well, though. I think they're a little better as far as saving storage space in the trunk. Just my opinion, I haven't heard either of them.
From the system you're describing, I would choose a mono sub amp capable of a 2-ohm load and two dual 2-ohm coil 10's for sub's. For high's, either a 2-channel amp matched to each of the front and rear speaker systems you use or a single 4-channel for all. I personally am using the former with great results. With regard to brand, I consider Phoenix Gold, Zapco and PPI to be exceptional brands. But, they're not cheap either. I've read much on this board of people using JL Audio's amps with varying degree's of success. If you buy an enclosure form Nazar, he sells JL amps too.
IMHO, no. But others may tell you differently. You'll somehow need to arrange a sub crossover, but if that 7015's any good, it'll have a seperate adjustable sub-out. That should do. If not, Audio Control makes a nifty gadget called an Epicenter. It's got a remote-adjustable gain control for your subs. I'd recommend that if needed.
My Track model comes with less sound-deadening material than the other models. My car's a rattle-trap. I'm planning on taking the whole thing apart next spring and sound deadening the whole car. Firstly, buy the cheaper stuff, Fat Mat or something like that from e(vil)Bay. Secondly, plan on doing your doors while you have the panels off to put the speakers in. I find that to be one of the most rattle-prone area's.
Don't know about either of these, haven't done them. I saw an install from a guy that built an Xbox into his dash. It's sick. But I haven't done it personally, so can't say.

Regarding install, I used to be a pro installer and it even took me a long time. With all of this gear, I would either install it all yourself or take the whole thing to a shop to be done. Really though, if you're mechanically inclined, it shouldn't be too hard.

Whoo, that's a long post. Hopefully, it's worth the read for you. I'd be happy to help you out if you've got any other questions.

Good luck!

 

motown thanks for the post very informative!! I really appreciate that.

As far as the side enclosuers....Do you think they would hit hard with that air space?? I to would like to have some sort of space in my trunk.

The 2nd lcd would be for the xbox and possibly a rear cam. I would like to be able to play vid,music,pc while I have navi up so thats why i wan another lcd. Is it possible to switch between sources to the lcd and 7015??? With something like a switch or something??

I'm not really that obsessive about sound i just want a really decent sound thats not that expensive. So what would u recommend for fronts and backs (Behind headrest)? Also should i replace the bose sub behind driver side?? OR should i just disconnect since i will be adding subs in hatch?? what would u do??

Again trying to get decent sound for decent price so what models of amps would you get to build this system??

Thanks again

 

Decent sound / decent price: Focal Polyglass series seperates for the front. Buy 'em on Ebay. They're cheap there.

Rear speakers? If you're doing a DVD system, yes. Otherwise, I usually mostly fade mine out. If I had it to do over again, either no rear speakers at all or dedicated mid-bass drivers. For mid-bases, you would need a crossover.

As far as those boxes, I built my own single side enclosure for one S10L7 Kicker Solo. It slams, but I'm not trying to wake up my whole neighborhood. I would recommend it for the savings in storage space too. The under-strutbar system seems to cut up the hatch too much for my taste. Does it sound better? Ask Nazar. He sells both, so I would imagine he'd be an objective enough judge.

As far as the screen, that's up to you. I don't know enough about the 7015 to tell you if it can do what you want. Try sending Kenwood a tech question via their website. I heard they're good about responding. IMO, sounds like it may be a bit of a stretch of the system's capablilites. But, I like the idea so I hope it works for you!

The Bose sub, rip it out. It's dead weight back there. Besides that, the space it uses is a prime spot to mount your amps. That's where I put mine.

Amps, OK, my two choices:

1) Economical
JL Audio 1000/1 w/ 2 x JL 10W3V2's with 2-ohm coils
JL Audio 300/2 w/ Focal Polyglass components
-or-
JL Audio 450/4 w/ Focal Polyglass components front and Focal coax rear's or Dynaudio midbass drivers.

2) Not Economical
Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.2 w/ Focal Polykevlar, Boston Pro60's, MB Quart's, Morel, whatever ace quality components you want
Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 w/ same subs as above

Again, these are purely what I would choose. Others will have differing opinions. If you are into building your own custom enclosures, that would really change what subs you use. If prefab's are your preference, Nazar's your man. Good luck with the system, I'm sure it'll turn out great. Sounds like you're off to a good start. Whatever you end up using, make sure to post pix when it's all put in!

 

Thanks again motown....I'll look it to these.

Also forgot to ask about the stock tweets?? Would u replace ?? If so what would u recommend.

 

Yup, chuck 'em. The component sets I've recomended will include woofer for the bottom of the door and tweeter plus the passive crossover box that connects them to the amp. If you check out the manufacturer's web sites, you'll see what I'm talking about...

 

Bump

 

Hey motown

Ok so it seams no one has input so I guess you'll be my only means of support for the install. Ok I've sketched out my budget and the componets listed below will be implemeted in my system as far as amps and speakers.

2xInfinity Kappa 62.5i for the rears
2xInfinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 for the Doors
These will be powerd by a PhoenixGold 400.4 amp

2x10W6v2 by JL Audio
These will be powerd by PhoenixGold 1200.1

Questions:
1) What gauge wire should I run for speakers and what brand??

2) What gauge wire should I run for the amps??

3) As far as componets to get this to work anything else i should look in such as distro block, battery clamps, circuit breakers etc.....??

 

OK, since I seem to be the only one chiming in, here we go:

Wire in general should always be good quality non-oxygenated multi-strand wire. Monster's good. That's what I use. Most car audio stores have great quality wire. Otherwise, Ebay has loads of it. Most are good. I'd buy a good 10 gauge to run from your 1200.1 to the subs. That amp will power the crap out of those subs, by the way. Overkill? Maybe. I would think the 600.1 would do just fine and save you some cash too. Try 12 gauge from the 400.1 to the Perfect crossovers and 16 gauge from the crossovers to the speakers. The Kappa 62.5i's, I'd use 16 gauge as well.

Wires to the amps, two ways to do it:
1) expensive (but better)
buy good 4 gauge to run from the battery. Depending on where you mount your amps, I'd get 25-30 ft. min. You'll also need prob. 3 - 4 ft of black 4 gauge for the single ground. Get a circuit breaker matched to the current draw of the two amps together. This goes next to the battery. Get a fused single in to 2 out distribution block. You'll connect this close to the amps. The single 4 gauge from the battery goes in and two lengths of wire (I'd recommend at least 8 gauge, but check the 1200.1 owners manual and see what it recommends) come out. These go to the (+) on your two amps. Fuses for the power block should be as-per amp's spec's. The 3 - 4 feet of black should be screwed down to a good grounding point on the interior somewhere close to where your amps are. From there, run this into a distribution block. Coming out of the other end of the (ground) distribution block should give you two lengths of wire the exact same gauge as the power wires you'd used. These two should feed the (-) on your two amps.

2) more economical inferior method
Just run two wires as-per amp's spec's from each amp to the battery and to a common ground point. Make sure you have fuses both at the battery (could alternately use two smaller circuit breakers here) and near the amp for each wire if you do this.

Fuses by the amp should be no more than 18" away. Ground wires should also be no more than a couple of feet long MAX. These go for both methods above.

You should not need a battery terminal adaptor. Our stock battery terminal has a blank space on the drivers' side of the positive terminal that you can attach to. You'll need to get a screw to fit it. I remember it's metric and 'fine' thread, but I can't remember the exact size. Any hardware store should have.

Odds are you'll need some ring terminals to crimp onto the wire ends for the power / ground wires. A car audio shop will have tons. Buy the gold or platinum plated copper ones. They're the best.

What do you have for tools? You'll need a power drill with bits and phillips adaptor, some wood for the amp rack mount (and a saw to cut it), a pair of good wire crimpers (Klein or Thomas & Bett's), a ratchet set, a panel popper (not crucial, just very useful for taking apart interior panels), prob. some good wire strippers too.

You'll need a Metra kit for your 7015 and wiring harness adaptor. For the harness, you'll need some red wire crimps. Make sure not to connect the ground wire from the stereo to the ground wire from the harness. That wire's dead on the other side of the factory molex. You'll want to run a seperate ground wire for the head unit. Ground it to the spot where the factory bracket was connected just below the unit. You'll see what I'm talking about.

OK, I'm sure I just wrote WAAY more than you ever wanted to read, but I figured since I'm the only one chiming in on this thread, I should be thorough. I hope you find this info helpful. I would definitely recommend reading up a bit at www.the12volt.com to get some general knowledge about car electronics before you begin your install.

Oh, and probably the biggest recommendation I have is that you ALWAYS look on the other side of a piece of metal before you begin drilling into it. Sounds dumb maybe, but could save your bacon in a major way. For example, if you were to just mount one of your amps to the floor of the compartment where the Bose sub is, you would have very likely just run a screw straight into your gas tank. Always good to check before you begin screwing into something.

 

Hey motown...see you've been on the other boards. Like i said on the other board, i'm putting a wiring diagram togeather to get a visual of the intended install. When i'm done i will post for recommendation and suggestions.

 

Hey motown or anyone else,


I'm finished with the wiring diagram of audio/video system I intend to install.
As stated in previous post I was looking for some way to switch sources between monitors. Well I think I am able to do this with the alpine monitor such as it has 3 a/v inputs and 3 a/v outputs to allow the sources to be switched, basically what goes into the apline will come out. But I'm not sure if the kenwood will be able to support this?? I'm still unsure of this though?? Maybe there is something else out there that would be able to accomplish this?? Still searching.
I'm very interested in your suggestions and recommendations based on what you see ino the jpeg.

The file is to big to post can I email it to

 

I posted it on 350zmotoring.xxx