VO's Sub Enclosure Makeover Fr3ad In Progress..FI Q series 12" sub..RF power....
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Vo, i knew it had to be something, and I had confidence you would find the issue sooner or later. Very glad you are happy with your sub purchase!!!!
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
^^^ That's not a bad problem to have!
Originally Posted by vo7848
Not being satisfied that the missing bolt was the only leak I decided to investigate futher. Saturday I decided to remove sub and inspect the interior of the enclosure. This time I placed a flashlight in the box and actually stuck my head in there to inspect. To my surprise I found the rear edge of the box's original baffle board seal had been compromised. I don't know what would have caused the seal to break, but it did.(photos below)
I re-applied liquid nails to the area. i also applied a 2nd layer of liquid nails to the parameter of the sub cut-out hole to ensure integrity. I let the box cure overnight, then drove to the car show on Sunday.
Thursday night's sound test was nothing compared to Sunday. The FI Q's true sound came out in all it's glory on Sunday. As far as SQ goes, it effectively reproduced clearer bass notes than the RF T1. Excursion was phenominal. I got this sub jumping at least 2 inches from it's frame, and holding it this time around. It kills the lows. My entire hatch rose as the lows hit. The only thing holding the hatch down was the fact that it was closed and latched. The rear windshield wiper was taking a beating too, wobbling violently, litterally jumping off the glass. I also witnessed the sides of my rear bumper flexing as the lows hit. Luckily I have the entire rear hatch Dynomatted. If not, the rattle would've probably been pretty bad.
I had many audio enthusiast coming up and asking what I had in there. They couldn't believe it was only one 12. One guy said, "Man, that sounds like three 12's!". I also had a few audio enthusiast compliment me on the sub selection. The sound system seemed to take away from the rest of my car. Alot of people ignored the rest of the car and went straight to sticking their heads in the car to listen.
My final conclusion is the FI Q is a superior sub to the RF T1....
I re-applied liquid nails to the area. i also applied a 2nd layer of liquid nails to the parameter of the sub cut-out hole to ensure integrity. I let the box cure overnight, then drove to the car show on Sunday.
Thursday night's sound test was nothing compared to Sunday. The FI Q's true sound came out in all it's glory on Sunday. As far as SQ goes, it effectively reproduced clearer bass notes than the RF T1. Excursion was phenominal. I got this sub jumping at least 2 inches from it's frame, and holding it this time around. It kills the lows. My entire hatch rose as the lows hit. The only thing holding the hatch down was the fact that it was closed and latched. The rear windshield wiper was taking a beating too, wobbling violently, litterally jumping off the glass. I also witnessed the sides of my rear bumper flexing as the lows hit. Luckily I have the entire rear hatch Dynomatted. If not, the rattle would've probably been pretty bad.
I had many audio enthusiast coming up and asking what I had in there. They couldn't believe it was only one 12. One guy said, "Man, that sounds like three 12's!". I also had a few audio enthusiast compliment me on the sub selection. The sound system seemed to take away from the rest of my car. Alot of people ignored the rest of the car and went straight to sticking their heads in the car to listen.
My final conclusion is the FI Q is a superior sub to the RF T1....
i am glad that you are happy
imagine the flex from an FI BTL with 5 x power your running
my car flexes sick
so glad your a happy camper
Originally Posted by vo7848
Werd! I'm telling you, that FI sub is sick!! It amazes me at how one sub can hit so hard with the right amount of power and correctly built enclosure. There was a jeep parked behind me with four 10's. I was actually drowning out his bass. You could clearly hear the difference in sound quality and hertz level....
the companies with 2 letter names rule
FI
RE
RD
DD
your sub at $ 250 kills most $500 mainstream subs
non-mainstream for the win
Last edited by 350zspl; Jan 21, 2008 at 10:20 AM.
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by 350zspl
your sub at $ 250 kills most $500 mainstream subs
Originally Posted by vo7848
Agreed 100%. I was a non-believer at first, but glad I took the risk and advice here. I'll never go mainstream again, it's a waist of money spending 2x as much for the marketing aspect.....
This is kind of what a lot of here try to tell people when they ask for advice. It's not that the mainstream companies put out garbage products (well not all of them), but that the prices are so inflated due to marketing costs.
Where's doug and his red pill/blue pill picture!!!!!
Originally Posted by vo7848
Agreed 100%. I was a non-believer at first, but glad I took the risk and advice here. I'll never go mainstream again, it's a waist of money spending 2x as much for the marketing aspect.....
they spend a boat load of money in research and development , the have board of directors , the have CEO that want vacation homes
therefore the price of their items is high
now i prefer to buy my product from owners and engineers that actually do it for the passion of competition premarily , and to get rich secondarily
Scott at FI and the boys at RD actually compete
would you rather buy product from a company trying to dominate thru wins at competitions, or from a company trying to justify 4th quarter earnings to a board of directors
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by 350zspl
in all fairness mainstream companies like kicker and Rockford are publicly traded companies
they spend a boat load of money in research and development , the have board of directors , the have CEO that want vacation homes
therefore the price of their items is high
now i prefer to buy my product from owners and engineers that actually do it for the passion of competition premarily , and to get rich secondarily
Scott at FI and the boys at RD actually compete
would you rather buy product from a company trying to dominate thru wins at competitions, or from a company trying to justify 4th quarter earnings to a board of directors
they spend a boat load of money in research and development , the have board of directors , the have CEO that want vacation homes
therefore the price of their items is high
now i prefer to buy my product from owners and engineers that actually do it for the passion of competition premarily , and to get rich secondarily
Scott at FI and the boys at RD actually compete
would you rather buy product from a company trying to dominate thru wins at competitions, or from a company trying to justify 4th quarter earnings to a board of directors
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Alright VO, you sold me! Or, should I say, your results speak for themselves and they sold me on this driver. I've never been a "give me the same thing he got" kinda guy, so two JL's in a Zenclosures with a 1000/1 just was never gonna happen for me. So, when you see this post, could you tell me where you got this 12" FI driver?
My standing design requirements for the sub-bass portion of my in car audio/video system are:
* Retain spare tire
* Stealth/OEM-"look" install
* SQ. "Tight" controlled bass. No "boom". No slop. Think "punch in the kidneys".
This driver would further refine the parameters of my install to include:
* ~ 1.55ft^3 sealed enclosure huh? (as I understand it from perusing this thread lightly)
If that's the case, that's a relatively small sealed box, I've got a vision coming together in my head and I'm thinking this is do-able.
Thanks,
Clark
My standing design requirements for the sub-bass portion of my in car audio/video system are:
* Retain spare tire
* Stealth/OEM-"look" install
* SQ. "Tight" controlled bass. No "boom". No slop. Think "punch in the kidneys".
This driver would further refine the parameters of my install to include:
* ~ 1.55ft^3 sealed enclosure huh? (as I understand it from perusing this thread lightly)
If that's the case, that's a relatively small sealed box, I've got a vision coming together in my head and I'm thinking this is do-able.
Thanks,
Clark
Originally Posted by clarkemtp
could you tell me where you got this 12" FI driver?
Thanks,
Clark
Thanks,
Clark
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by clarkemtp
Alright VO, you sold me! Or, should I say, your results speak for themselves and they sold me on this driver. I've never been a "give me the same thing he got" kinda guy, so two JL's in a Zenclosures with a 1000/1 just was never gonna happen for me. So, when you see this post, could you tell me where you got this 12" FI driver?
My standing design requirements for the sub-bass portion of my in car audio/video system are:
* Retain spare tire
* Stealth/OEM-"look" install
* SQ. "Tight" controlled bass. No "boom". No slop. Think "punch in the kidneys".
This driver would further refine the parameters of my install to include:
* ~ 1.55ft^3 sealed enclosure huh? (as I understand it from perusing this thread lightly)
If that's the case, that's a relatively small sealed box, I've got a vision coming together in my head and I'm thinking this is do-able.
Thanks,
Clark
My standing design requirements for the sub-bass portion of my in car audio/video system are:
* Retain spare tire
* Stealth/OEM-"look" install
* SQ. "Tight" controlled bass. No "boom". No slop. Think "punch in the kidneys".
This driver would further refine the parameters of my install to include:
* ~ 1.55ft^3 sealed enclosure huh? (as I understand it from perusing this thread lightly)
If that's the case, that's a relatively small sealed box, I've got a vision coming together in my head and I'm thinking this is do-able.
Thanks,
Clark
1.55 cu ft. is actually too large, per the website. For the FI Q 12 you can have a sealed enclosure ranging from .8 to 1.5 cu ft. Mine enclosure is closer to approx. 1.3 cu ft. of usable airspace.
It hits the higher bass notes real tight, since it's a sealed enclosure. At the same time, it'll dip into the 20 something hertz range also. Either way the sub reproduces the notes extremely clear. Just make sure you have absolutely no leaks in your enclosure...
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by 350zspl
are you crossing over double at sub amp and at head unit
This leads me to believe the HU's crossover is better than the amp's crossover, because theoretically switching the HU from 100Hz cut-off to 80Hz cut-off should have made no audiable difference in my sub since the amp is already set to a lower cut-off(55Hz).
fi Q 12" .8 to 1.5 net dual 1 or dual 2 1000 rms $ 259 shipped
fi ssd 12" .8 to 1.6 net dual 1 or dual 2 800 rms $ 189 shipped
look at what i am posting , match your rms, budget, and net sealed space to pick the correct woofer for your best results
either will be better than a W6
fi ssd 12" .8 to 1.6 net dual 1 or dual 2 800 rms $ 189 shipped
look at what i am posting , match your rms, budget, and net sealed space to pick the correct woofer for your best results
either will be better than a W6
Originally Posted by vo7848
I thought I'd touch back on this question. The other day I played around with the HU and was looking at it's internal crossover feature. It's pretty nice actually. It has a separate cross over feature for Low, Mid, & High. I set the HU to cancel Low frequencies above 80Hz. It actually made the bass sound more clear than previously, as it took some of the upper frequencies out. I had it previously set to 100Hz cut-off.
This leads me to believe the HU's crossover is better than the amp's crossover, because theoretically switching the HU from 100Hz cut-off to 80Hz cut-off should have made no audiable difference in my sub since the amp is already set to a lower cut-off(55Hz).
This leads me to believe the HU's crossover is better than the amp's crossover, because theoretically switching the HU from 100Hz cut-off to 80Hz cut-off should have made no audiable difference in my sub since the amp is already set to a lower cut-off(55Hz).
