I was able to do it in under an hour.
I also did not have to take the alternation off
You can get to the bolt from under the car..

just wear some cool eye protection.. Unless you like dirt in your eyes.

1 Make sure u disconnect your battery !!
2 Jack car up . put on stands.
3 Take plastic cover off (belly of engine )
4 The only thing that worked was a ¼"-drive socket wrench with a 12mil socket
5 Back the nut off.. put your new wire on..
6 put it all back together.

 

Today i spent 100 bucks on dam expanding foam..
I took the plastic off the hatch and foamed in all the holes..
Then did under and sides of the sub box..

I now plan on building a piece from the top of the box to roof to wall it right off..
The actual hatch is flopping around making to much noise.. ( walling it off should fix this problem and add a good amount of DBs )

 

Why didn't you properly deaden it instead? Looks like poop with that expanding foam. I'm sure it works though. Pics of where the amps are mounted etc

 

i have build covers that go over top of the foam in lower pictures.


id like to ask what you opinion on what proper deaden is ?
when u have metal .. you add the dynamat or what ever brand you use to deaden the metal.

then u have a wood box that sits on top..
bolt er down and fill the gaps with foam.
filling it with wood will would not make sense .

 

He probably means using dynamat or fatmat style thing, then a closed cell foam decoupler, then a layer of mass loaded vinyl.

Using a dynamat style deadener on your roof and hatch, along with something like 3m thinsulate would probably help with the rattling (a little bit, those 15s are just too much) and increase your DBs. Also check out SoundDeadenerShowdown.com

 

sall good.. but im not needing sound deadening.. i just needed the air tight seal

 

i have finished the inside so far.. still might add some 6.5s to the sides of the box..

 

got a blue led volt meter.. need to find a place to mount .
ebay special.

 

Nice, following on SMD also

 

thx..
well i finally got another D3400 in the mail but its kinda damaged and been tampered with.. so i have a claim and sending it back

plus it is a really old battery.. thats not even xs powers current web address on the box..

 

just a rough idea of the trunk.. still waiting on another amp.
i must say im happy with the voltage level ..
with 2 xs d3400 and 3 runz of zero gauge
cranked the voltage only drops to 13.2
not bad for the stalk alt..

 

Did you have to modify at all to fit the 3400 under the hood? I plan on doing one too

 

nope .. its a direct drop in ..
just take the plastic trim parts off as normal to get the old one out and drop the new one in
just amazing batteries !

 

Factory covers all still fit? And hell yes they are awesome batteries

 

Also, could you post a pic of where you ran the 1/0 through the firewall?

 

yes the factory covers all fit the same..
in one of the pics below u can sorta see where the 0 gauge goes in ..
there is a big rubber grommet that all the stalk wiring goes in right beside the battery. i just cut a hole in it and ran 3 runs down.
The wire falls right down above the passengers feet.. u don't need to lift any carpet or anything inside to see it.

_tip_ .. use soapy water on the wire while stuffing it through

 

you meter it ?
I would venture to guess that you will not hit 150 on the TL sealed up

I think you will be close though

 

got some parts for the car. its been in storage 2 years now.. ......
maybe tmrw install

 

looks like the stuff toolmaker puts out

you ever meter it ?

curious how close you will be to 150 on the TL sealed up @ 32 hertz ?

 

nah i haven't metered or used the car since 2013.. The car has been in storage..

Terminals installed ! .


Next up is to finish the trunk , build side walls, and box around the amps ..

The plan is to have the amps and battery in the trunk completely hidden.

I'm going to replace the old alpine v12 to another alpine pdx f4 or f6..