How to DIY: Switchblade Key aka Euro Style Flip Key
12-28-2008, 07:38 AM
#81
PLEASE READ THEN HELP!
Hello Gentlemen,
I bought this fob from Ipearlg and love (the looks of it). However I have a problem, I cannot get the fob keys to perform any of the functions they are supposed to. I hope maybe you can lend a hand in diagnosing this complex problem. Ok here it goes, I transferred the "guts" of my old fob over and no buttons work. I have been at it for over 5 hours now so I know it is not something simple. I have made sure that the battery is making good contact with both the + and -.
I have tried to reprogram the fob (in and out of ignition 6+ times, hazards flash back in ignition to ACC, click any button {hazards should flash}, open and close door. This does not work. I have even put the "guts" back into the old fob and went outside to test and voila! It worked perfectly! WTF! I am at my whits end and cannot figure out WTF is wrong with it?!? Oh I even already had walmart cut my key and the Z starts fine but no F'in fob keys!!!! Any thoughts you may have would be much appreciated.
Oh one last thing, the only problem left that I could imagine is that the battery might be too drained to work with this new fob. I have heard the range is a little more limited on this new fob then the old. Maybe it is only strong enough to get through the old fob plastic. I still have functionality with the old fob (same battery) at 15' so I can hardly imagine this being the problem as I walked all around the car (with new fob) at point blank range trying to get the b1tch to work...
Hello Gentlemen,
I bought this fob from Ipearlg and love (the looks of it). However I have a problem, I cannot get the fob keys to perform any of the functions they are supposed to. I hope maybe you can lend a hand in diagnosing this complex problem. Ok here it goes, I transferred the "guts" of my old fob over and no buttons work. I have been at it for over 5 hours now so I know it is not something simple. I have made sure that the battery is making good contact with both the + and -.
I have tried to reprogram the fob (in and out of ignition 6+ times, hazards flash back in ignition to ACC, click any button {hazards should flash}, open and close door. This does not work. I have even put the "guts" back into the old fob and went outside to test and voila! It worked perfectly! WTF! I am at my whits end and cannot figure out WTF is wrong with it?!? Oh I even already had walmart cut my key and the Z starts fine but no F'in fob keys!!!! Any thoughts you may have would be much appreciated.
Oh one last thing, the only problem left that I could imagine is that the battery might be too drained to work with this new fob. I have heard the range is a little more limited on this new fob then the old. Maybe it is only strong enough to get through the old fob plastic. I still have functionality with the old fob (same battery) at 15' so I can hardly imagine this being the problem as I walked all around the car (with new fob) at point blank range trying to get the b1tch to work...
12-28-2008, 01:16 PM
#84
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I had the exact same problem. I ended up taking the guts out of another old fob that I had, and used it and it works perfectly now. I went through the exact same frustration you went through and never could figure out why I couldn't get the buttons to work. Once I had all but the trunk lid release button working but never got them all. Anyone else have the same problem?
Garbud
Garbud
12-28-2008, 01:19 PM
#85
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My only guess is that there is something wrong with the new remote casing. The guts and buttons work in the old remote and the battery seems to be good. Something might be wrong with the inner parts of the casing that doesn't allow the buttons to be pushed all the way. Take apart both cases and compare them side by side and see there are any small differences on the inside.
12-28-2008, 01:21 PM
#86
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Good suggestion. The part where the plastic insert contacts the circuit board may be slighty dirty or not compressed together as tightly as the "stock" fob and not making a good connection. Will try this out in a second, thanks.
12-28-2008, 01:24 PM
#87
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I also pulled this newb maneuver when I first put it back together. When I pulled it apart and saw this I was like well that is good at least I know what is wrong.....wrong it only aided to the frustration because I moved the piece over and still nothing! Thanks for the input though.
12-28-2008, 04:59 PM
#88
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Update
So after another 3 or so hours taking voltmeter readings at all points, shaving excess plastic, and measuring/figuring. I have come to the conclusion that the housing is the problem. I am not blaming Ipearlg as this is a molded piece of plastic and the tolerances are very slim as it is. I came to this conclusion after I realized the top button was getting stuck and essentially holding down the lock button at all times. The board itself kinda rocks back and forth when you press the lock and panic buttons one after the other. With the lock button not really releasing after each press.
I know it is the housing because without the back screwed on to "pinch" the buttons I was able to hold the small metal piece on the battery, on the front assembly and get it to work. (This is with the back half completely removed).
So I am about to PM Ipearlg for another one and get this dam mod complete! I persevere and will not be defeated by a dam key fob!
So after another 3 or so hours taking voltmeter readings at all points, shaving excess plastic, and measuring/figuring. I have come to the conclusion that the housing is the problem. I am not blaming Ipearlg as this is a molded piece of plastic and the tolerances are very slim as it is. I came to this conclusion after I realized the top button was getting stuck and essentially holding down the lock button at all times. The board itself kinda rocks back and forth when you press the lock and panic buttons one after the other. With the lock button not really releasing after each press.
I know it is the housing because without the back screwed on to "pinch" the buttons I was able to hold the small metal piece on the battery, on the front assembly and get it to work. (This is with the back half completely removed).
So I am about to PM Ipearlg for another one and get this dam mod complete! I persevere and will not be defeated by a dam key fob!
12-28-2008, 05:39 PM
#89
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I've got a second key fob coming from Ipearlg also to see if I can get my second key to work with my original board that didn't work out the first time. Let us know if you come up with any workarounds.
Garbud
Garbud
12-28-2008, 06:08 PM
#90
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edit - bought the ebay deal will post results.
Last edited by CancerJCCz; 12-28-2008 at 06:34 PM.
12-30-2008, 07:59 AM
#92
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Garbud
12-31-2008, 12:08 PM
#95
12-31-2008, 12:17 PM
#96
C
Last edited by cdoxp800; 12-31-2008 at 12:24 PM.
01-03-2009, 11:28 AM
#97
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I purchased the key on eBay with the transponder included because I didn't want to cut up one of my keys. To make a long story short, after trying three different ones, they couldn't be programmed by the dealer. Don't waste your money on the ones with the chip included, they don't work. I ended up cutting up my stock key and going that route and it works great.
My issue is that I only have 1 key and I don't feel comfortable slicing it up since i only have one.
I programmed the remote functions no problem, not sure why people here are swapping the board on the FOB, is this because they cannot program additional remotes?
I only had 1 key and remote, so I bought the switchblade as a spare, without a factory transponder though it seems like it's just a remote. The key is all cut, is my only option to buy a key and slice it up? seems like a waste...
If I can just get a refund from the seller I will, considering the key is already cut it might be tough, but they are selling it with the chip and advertising it will work. If I don't get this straightened out I'll be leaving some negative feedback I guess.
BTW- looks like you guys have a different seller than me, probably the same product though...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
01-05-2009, 06:28 AM
#98
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when you guys got yours cut, did you take it in fob and all, or was the blade detached? i took mine to the local Ace Hardware (tiny farmstore type) and they said they couldn't cut it because it wouldn't fit their cutter. I haven't tried anywhere else yet.
01-05-2009, 05:01 PM
#100
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Purchased one from | IPEARLG |over on G35driver, got it today swap out the original remote fit perfect to the switch blade and got it cut at Home Depot for FREE since you are not buying a key. They will do it for free. Over all EASY AS HELL no modification don't only to cut the key. Other than that str8 swap.