Could someone explain to me what the 'Oil pressure' gauge is trying to tell me? It seems to go up the more strain you put on the engine (ie. accelerate). Then when you back off it drops down again. What range should it stay in (ie. where should it not go)?

ps. On a different topic, the 350Z Track manual (not sure about others as this is the one I have) allows for left-foot braking. Applying the brake while still maintaining throttle opening seems to do exactly what I expect and just grab the brakes without dropping any power/revs. So I'm very happy about that as I can left-foot brake when need to :-) Though, I'm finding that the Zed is not that sensitive to weight transfer ... backing off in a middle of a corner does not seem to drastically shift the weight forward (ie. you can change gears mid-corner without drastic change in the car's attiture). S2000 is incredibly sensitive to weight transfter (which is good and bad - you have to know what you're doing and be carefull but then the car is infinatelly adjustable mid corner). Elise is a bit like that as well and the Boxster somewhere in between the Elise/S2000 and 350Z.

 

I have no idea on how accurate the oil pressure guage is. But as the revs increase i'd expect the oil to get put under more pressure due to the displacement of the mechanics.

There is no good or bad range.... at idle when your car is hot it'll be lower than middle and at full throttle it'll be all the way to the end.

All I can get out of this guage is that IF it was pegging the right hand side at idle (when hot) then i'm in trouble of blowing a gasket. And the other way goes too, if it was all the way to the left and I was reving silly then I have no oil in the engine as there is no pressure.

Either way i think they had a dial (marketing) and didn't know what to do with it so we got an oil pressure guage.

Ei..it's useless...

 

Zuffy, it should have been a boost gauge!!

I look at the gauge the same way as Zuff.

When its low I dont go silly and like Zuffy said if it stays too high, especially when you're not full biscuit you could have a problem and you should start ringing Red (whatever his name his, you know, the bloke who caps oil rigs).

As always

H

 

I think it's Adair

 

Harry, do I read your signature right, you've done away with the quick shifter, what happened, this is news to me.

Jim

 

Yeah Jim, just got sick to death of all the extra noises it made.

The "person" I bought it from is just mucking me around.

The fix was a new control socket with some rubber o rings. He claims to have sent me 2, strange but true, both have gone missing!

Its a real shame because the shifter itself is great. The changes are so precise and quick.

If you want to read the entire story I have posted a warning in the main forum.

I put the standard shifter back in on Sunday and thought there was something wrong, the change is just so "rubbery". Im a bit funny when it comes to noises and I just couldnt handle it anymore.


Jim, now you've gotten me started!

As always

H

 

HARRY - where is the "main" forum - I want to read - was thinking
of getting a quick shifter.

Is there another brand?

Who are the muckers so we don't get involved with them?

MELTED

 

SNOWJOB, if you look below you will see a little field that says,
----Australia/Losers, if you click on the button and go to Engine/Drivetrain/FI, that is the main area for that particular topic.

Yes, there is another brand that has been made by Rogue Engineering ($239 US + shipping). I cannot possibly put ***** on the person I got mine from (Ha!) but if you look in my sig, you will see the brand!

As always
BIG ONE

 

If it is on 0 I would be calling a tow truck

 

LOL

It should be 0 when turned off.....

Anything under a 1/4 way would be a worry while driving.

 

HARRY - ***** is ***** - if that's your opinion, you can say so.

How hard to fit?

Are you going to get the Rogue?

*******

 

BLOWIE, Im still hoping to get the "fix" from Dweeb. He sent me an email yesterday saying he has sent me a "third" one. Id really love to know where the other two went. Perhaps someone has a Z control socket fetish?

Fitting takes about half and hour. The hardest part is jacking up the car and fitting under there to undo the bolt on the linkage.

Not sure about the Rogue, Im reading there has been a problem with that as well, apparently it has been fixed. Im thinking its better to wait for other guinea pigs to try things out first.

You know me BLOW Ill call a spade a spade!

As always

ME!

 

Put a mechanical test gauge on mine and the oil pressure indication is trustworthy ( at least on mine.. ). With 5 weight synthetic - 600kpa cold idle, 150 kpa warm idle and "around" 400 kpa - normal driving. From experience there acceptable numbers. ( Different oil will change the cold and hot idle numbers )

On "whats right" thats harder but zero and too much are NOT GOOD.