I was fiddling around in my boot (trunk) in my 2008 Nissan 350z Touring

where the little boot light is. I had a small 8" led strip for extra light. The led strip was failing so I gave the wires a tug and some smoke was coming out of the back panel at the point of the tailgate latch. I took that panel off and couldn't see any evidence of burnt wiring.

Now I'm having heaps of problems. mostly related around my dashboard cluster. At one stage I thought I had no turn signals as I couldn't hear the clicking and there is no lights flashing on the dashboard. So I did a walk around and saw the turn signals working, I tested the hazards, working, brake lights working, reversing lights working, headlights, tail lights all working. But I have no hi-beam indicator light on the dashboard. I have no power to the OBD2 port. The reverse beep is barely audible, no beeping when the key is inserted. The trip meter resets every time I start the car, the fuel gauge jumps up and down when starting the car then stabilisers, and yes the battery is full.

I have checked every fuse down by the accelerator with a multimeter also those in the battery compartment, as well as these behind the battery.

Please be gentle with me I'm an old man of 71..

 

Sounds like there's some "wiring modifications" at work here. Do you have an aftermarket stereo + backup camera installed?

It's common for installers to tap into the reverse lamp power wire in the trunk for backup camera activation. I'm thinking something shorted out there if it was not done properly. If you don't have an aftermarket stereo + camera, then the next logical thing to check is the LED light strip. How was this wired in? or was it battery powered? If hardwired, was it tapped into the trunk/boot courtesy lamp at the rear panel?

Either way, you need to pull off the plastic trunk paneling to inspect the wire harness. There's not a whole lot there, but this area is the main location for a ground bundle, tail lamps, license plate bulbs, and reverse/indicator lamps. You also have the trunk latch actuator + harness. If something smoked, odds are you have a nasty short or a broken ground circuit.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

Thank you for your reply, nothing after market stuff has been installed my zed is stock. I put in a small 8" led strip in the boot for extra lamination as I ues to do Astro photography. After time that strip was failing it was just wired into the boot light two bear wires into the light plug. I gave the wires a tug and that's where a bit of smoke came out of the boot latch.
I have removed that back panel and I've had a real good look around and can't see any evidence of heated up wiring. It's very frustrating. I have printed out my problem and have given it to an auto electrician, he is very busy so I haven't heard back from him.

 

Looking at the wiring diagrams, it appears that the rear luggage lamp is controlled directly by the Body Control Module (BCM). If something internal to that fried, then that would explain the odd behavior with the gauge cluster. The ODBII data lines for the CAN bus also run directly off the BCM. It's possible that when you removed the bare wires, something momentarily shorted and damaged the BCM (sensitive computer module). So prepare yourself, worst case scenario, you may need a new BCM (which will need to be programmed to pair with your vehicle's ignition system - NATS).
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

OMG, that sounds expensive?? A couple of weeks ago I took the zed to my local Nissan dealership to have the clock sping replaced. I was very, very disappointed with their substandard work. It took them 3 hours to do what I was told 2 hrs, I waited for the job to finish. Anyhow the service manager said everything is now working except the airbag light is still flashing we will have to book your car back for a diagnosis. I said no way leave it with me. I googled the problem and all that was needed to do was ignition key strokes and I fixed it. I had a silly thought that it was a coincidence that as what I did and they did caused the problem.??
Anyhow thankyou for your expertise its much appreciated.. I'm getting too old (71) for all this stuff😭

 

If you go through a dealership, it will get expensive very quickly. Your most affordable option is to find a used, but compatible BCM (If confirmed faulty). You can find used modules on Ebay from auto-wreckers for under $200, but best to try and match the exact part number off the original unit, don't trust the compatibility description from the seller. Always cross-check the part number against your VIN. Once you have a replacement unit on hand, a good independent shop with the right tools can do the install and any programming required. The hardest part of all this is actually finding a shop with the right expertise, most shops these days don't have a clue when it comes to diagnostics, they just throw parts at problems without testing & validating the part is even the root cause.

All that being said, it's possible there's a wiring fault somewhere, so it's best to have a professional confirm my suspicions before throwing parts at it.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

I hear you.. its certainly opened up the may be's. It's an 18 year old car with this technology it's got me with these new cars.
Anyhow I'm going to have a look around for that module.
Beat regards