Advice on Camber adjustment at track
Track Day Camber and Koni Adjustment Procedures??
I would like some advice on procedures and guidelines I should follow when I go to the track for a 1 or 2 day HPDE to insure that the camber and shock setting of the Z is correct for street and track use.
This assumes that the car arrives on 18” OEM wheels/ tires pulling a track trailer with 17” R compound track wheels/tires on it for HPDE use. F=9.5/255 , R 10.5/275
This assumes the 18” OEM street set up is at Nissan camber spec (-.58 F, -1.8R) when it arrives, and that the Z has 350evo adjustable front control arms with 350 Evo sways stiff in front, medium in rear. The Konis and slightly lowered RSR springs are on as well.
I understand I need to be able to get the front camber to -2 for R Tires. The rears will have to ride at neg 1.8 since there is no OEM rear camber adjustment. Assume the track is some distance (200-400 miles) from home so the track set up cannot be done TH nite in the home garage. The Konis ride pretty soft on the street setting. I understand where to adjust Konis, but how stiff?
BJ suggests a camber gauge. He likes the digital Smart racing item for $235. Others for less.
OK – What do I do when I get to the track to adjust wheel camber and koni shocks????
Do I need a Camber gauge? Which ones do you folks use? And how??
Sure appreciate some sage advice.
I would like some advice on procedures and guidelines I should follow when I go to the track for a 1 or 2 day HPDE to insure that the camber and shock setting of the Z is correct for street and track use.
This assumes that the car arrives on 18” OEM wheels/ tires pulling a track trailer with 17” R compound track wheels/tires on it for HPDE use. F=9.5/255 , R 10.5/275
This assumes the 18” OEM street set up is at Nissan camber spec (-.58 F, -1.8R) when it arrives, and that the Z has 350evo adjustable front control arms with 350 Evo sways stiff in front, medium in rear. The Konis and slightly lowered RSR springs are on as well.
I understand I need to be able to get the front camber to -2 for R Tires. The rears will have to ride at neg 1.8 since there is no OEM rear camber adjustment. Assume the track is some distance (200-400 miles) from home so the track set up cannot be done TH nite in the home garage. The Konis ride pretty soft on the street setting. I understand where to adjust Konis, but how stiff?
BJ suggests a camber gauge. He likes the digital Smart racing item for $235. Others for less.
OK – What do I do when I get to the track to adjust wheel camber and koni shocks????
Do I need a Camber gauge? Which ones do you folks use? And how??
Sure appreciate some sage advice.
Okay so just to get this correct your rear camber is at 1.8 neg. Which is still within specs which is good. I would install the upper control arm when it arrives and since you have no camber gauge. I would match what you factory control arm lenght to the 350evo arms lenght. Going with the 350evo uppers control arms you will have two holes on top that will line up with a plate underneath them for the factory settings. As for the track just put them all the way in. This is by no means the best, but it works. I have put them on three diffrent cars and each had diffrent max camber and either side did not match the other. This is factory intolerance. But don't sweat it it not that much. You should end up with 3.1-3.5 degrees of negative camber this way. Now a cheaper tool to use to gauge if your running to much or too little camber is a temp gauge. Measure the temp across the suface of the tire. You want a ten degrees differnce from the inside of the tread to the out side of the tread. If the inside is hotter than the out side by more than ten degrees pull a little camber out. This will give you the best traction w/usable camber. Hope this helps w/your question.
I have had mine on for a couple of track days now. I use the longacre bubble style camber gauge. If you take off your centercaps, the magnetic adapter fits perfectly. Ultimately, you want to tune with a pyrometer, but from what I have found, about -2.75 works best for me but not because I had optimal traction up front, but because it was overpowering the rear with any more negative. What I did to get to this point was start at full negative. I than backed off 1/4 degree until I got to the sweet spot. The best way to do that is to jack up one side and put the camber gauge on. Take a reading and back it down a 1/4 degree. Put the car on the ground and you're done. The biggest challenge with the bubble gauge is that it doesn't compensate for unlevel ground. I just bought a right angle at home depot and will use the gamber gauge on that to determine the tilt of the ground.
Thanks for all the good suggestions on track camber set up.
How do you use the magnetic camber gauge with aluminum wheels?
Also, how do you adjust the 350 evo arms? Jack up the front? or leave it on the ground and reach up under the fender to the 350evo control arm?
The "home depot" square? Is that the yellow plastic degree gauge ($10) that is yellow plastic with magnetic strips on the sides.
What about adjusting the Koni shocks from street to track use?
Getting closer to a good set up strategy. Thanks for the help!!
How do you use the magnetic camber gauge with aluminum wheels?
Also, how do you adjust the 350 evo arms? Jack up the front? or leave it on the ground and reach up under the fender to the 350evo control arm?
The "home depot" square? Is that the yellow plastic degree gauge ($10) that is yellow plastic with magnetic strips on the sides.
What about adjusting the Koni shocks from street to track use?
Getting closer to a good set up strategy. Thanks for the help!!
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