The majority of my experience with both the Ecsta V710 and the Victoracer V700 has been in a Camaro, which due to its power and weight demands quite a bit from tires. I have run shaved V700s down to the cords with decent performance, but as the tires reach the end of their life, they start to go a bit greasy during the session. Unfortunately I can't tell you exactly how many heat cycles this is. Depending on how hard you use the tires and assuming that you shave them, I believe that you may be able to get 15-20 sessions out of them

The V710s are more consistent through out a session and throughout their life. They have the ability to generate more grip than the V700 and in my opinion are a more forgiving tire. I have only personally run a maximum of 10 - 12 heat cycles on one set, so I can't personally vouch for performance beyond that, but I know people who have used them longer with good results. One thing to note is that due to the stiffness of the sidewalls on the V710, you will need to run 2-4 lbs less cold pressure than you would with a toyo or V700.

Unless you feel like you need the tread pattern of the V700 for rain, I'd suggest that you only consider the V710.

Hope that this helps!

-Rob

PS - Hopefully I'll have some more data on the V710s on a 350Z soon!

 

How's the Z coming Rob? Got pics?

 

This has been a very informative thread. Thank you all for sharing info!

I'm ALMOST ready for "R's". A couple things I will recommend though. A pyrometer and a way to adjust camber in the negative direction. Most R compounds recommend at least 2 - 4 degrees of negative camber. Many, if not most of the adjustable front A arms on the market now are to correct negative camber towards positive for the "slammers" out there. I will probable lower my Z mainly to gain more negative camber. I know the Performance Nissan/Unitech arms only allow a max of about 2 1/4 degrees negative camber at stock ride height. Would those of you running R tires please share your track settings for camber, and how you achieved those settings?

Thanks!

 

The Z is coming right along. The cage is done and I've bolted on all of the suspension except for the rear sway bar. The next job is to setup and install the Nismo diff.

-Rob

 

I am running -3.0 with the 350evo arms in front and -2.3 in the rear with stock setup.

 

Great info - exactly what I was looking for. So it sounds like the V710's are the way to go. Reading further down the thread, the comments regarding negative camber are striking home for me as well. I'm hesitant to drop a bunch of money on the R's only the chew up the front outside edge. Guess I could just swap them on the rim, but I'd prefer to get more negative up front anyway. It just kills me that the 350evo arms are 8-900 dollars. That's an entire nother set of tires, and then some. I've got some thinking to do...

ahm

 

You've got to pay to play
Another thing to keep in mind. Once you add sticky tires, you will uncover other deficiencies. You already mentioned the front camber. You will also yearn for better brakes, suspension, harness, etc…
Welcome to addiction.

 

Addiction.....very costly, but very fun. We want it all when at the track.

 

Ain't that the truth. The brakes at least I've made some headway on - oem non-track off, stoptech 13" kit on wish i could swing for the rears, but as we've chatted in another thread, for the moment i'll just deal with swapping the pads. ducting will happen this season. the suspension i'm waiting on. at the moment, i don't think (or haven't heard of) a really well developed, reasonably priced option. DA motons would be great, but that is *WAY* to rich for my blood. most of the japanese kits (tein, jic) i don't believe are particularly high quality. harnesses - well, having played with gforce's new 6pt camlock offering (available for ~$125), i've answered that question. haven't plunked the greenbacks down yet, but only because i'm trying to decide whether to have piper build me something like john has (basically, the back half of a cage), or 'cheap out' and buy a harness bar. i think its somewhat ridiculous the harness bars are ~$400, but hey, that's just me.

ahm
<tapping my forearm, looking for my next fix >

 

Where did you find an approved harness bar for $400.00?

Just try to have one built for less! And, one that will fit ALL 350Z Coupes ever built! With NO damage to your ride come resell time.


Now, what harness bar do I have.........

 

'Approved'? Approved for what? The only approval I need is mine. And $400 for something that costs $25 in materials - yeah, I consider that overpriced. Obviously, time and money go into the development, but seriously. I can go to Piper, and for $6-800, have the back half of a cage put in. And, since he builds real cages for a living, I have every bit of confidence that in the unfortunate circumstance where I need to depend on those harnesses, I know they'll be there. Not something I've been convinced of with *ANY* of the harness bars for sale.

Resell time? When would that be? You can pry my 350 from my cold dead hands...

ahm

 

Wow! Someone doesn't have a grasp of reality!

Approved. OK, I run Porsche Club of America HPDE's, and they have certain requirements. The BCR harness bar meets & exceeds them. Most event organizers tech people don't know a harness bar from a Martini Bar!

Please share where you can buy materials & hardware for $25.00. Heim joints and AN hardware are not cheap.

As good a roll bar as Piper builds, they haven't a clue on properly mounting a harness.

But, like you said, "The only approval I need is mine".

 

Wow - that'd be news to me and about the other 75 folks I've actually spoken to who have had their SpecMiata cages built and their harnesses mounted there. You've now proven to me your knowledge of this area is tainted - the rationalizing you're doing for your purchase of BCR stuff (or whatever your relationship with them is) is, IMO, tainting reality.

PCA may very well require certain features - good for them. Heim joints and AN hardware aren't that expensive if you're buying in lots of 100 (or 1000), which anyone 'manufacturing' something would be. I stand by my estimate of $25 in materials cost. Someone like racerpartswholesale is going to mark up small items like this at least 100%. Probably more like 2-300% vs buying them in bulk. Approval to me means something like FIA, SFI, Snell - you know, where there are publicly available standards that mean enough for manufacturers to CERTIFY their products. That's approval. Some random PCA tech guy saying, yeah, this is good enough doesn't hold a lot of weight, at least not regarding any indication of safety/engineering.

And in my case, with the more 'normal' organizations that 350z members are more likely to run with (ie NASA, Mazda Driving, FATT, SCDA, etc), none of those, at least as far as I know, have any specific 'approval' required.

This is the wrong thread for this discussion - I don't want to hijack it any more than we already have. The pros/cons of running just a harness bar have been beaten to death. You pays your moneys, you take your chances.

ahm

edit: so all I can find on Illinois PCA site is the following quote regarding harness bars:

'If a harness is added to stock seat, harness must be 6-point and use either 'H' Shoulder Straps or Harness Bar with loops to keep the harness well secured to the sides of the stock seat back.'

http://www.pca-chicago.org/?getpage=91

not exactly the most stringent of standards

 

The harness bars that I have seen installed in some Z's sit too high. The attachment point for the harness is higher than the drivers shoulder level.....not desirable from what I learned from builders.

But then again, everyone that uses them loves them, so to each his own.

-Steve

 

So is there anybody AutoX'ing the 710's yet? wanted some feedback from people that have actually used them. Thanks

 

... or Hoosier A3S05s (in 18", if possible)...

BC

 

just for clarification..

v710 -- can not drive to auto-x or track
v700-- can drive to auto-x or track

is that correct?
the ability to drive to the track is really enticing me.

 

I suppose you could drive to an event on the 710's you are just wasting heat cycles though. That goes for the 700s too though. I have driven the Z to get lunch or gas or whatever during auto-x events on the 710s with no troubles. I would rather carry my r-comps in the car personally. They are to expensive to waste on the street IMO. Changing tires is super easy I think i can change all four in 5-10 minutes without hurrying.