SinCity350Z

iTrader: (19)

I am somewhat new to autoX and racing all together. I have 4 autoXs under my belt. Two in B Stock, two in BSP. First, a quick question...I just ordered some Tien Flex Coilovers w/EDFC. Does the EDFC push me into SM2, or can I stay in BSP?

Here is my setup...

Tien Flex Coilovers w/EDFC
350EVO Front and Rear Sway Bars both set to medium
Hoosier A3S04 Tires, 245 Front 275 Rear
OEM Track Model 18" Wheels
Injen CAI
Injen SES Dual Exhaust
Kinetix HF Cats
Kinetix V4 Plenum
Technosquare ECU Re-flash
Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley

The courses here in Vegas vary depending on where we are running. They are either tight and technical point and shoot type courses, or smooth flowing courses that are usually a bit faster.

I would like recomendations on tire pressure, sway bar settings, and coilover settings mostly, but anything will help. Thanks in advance.

Mike

SinCity350Z

iTrader: (19)

^^^Or should I keep my JIC-FLTA2 Coilovers that I am currently trying to sell?

amolaver

iTrader: (1)

while i am no authority on autox, things like the cat replacements and chip i believe put you well into prepared - not sp, but full on prepared. ie, you have no chance in he11 of being competitive at even a regional level, if even locally.

like i said though, i'm talking out of my a33 - just recollections of when i was a cone dodger...

SinCity350Z

iTrader: (19)

I'm pretty sure that I e-mailed a list of mods to the SCCA Solo II Technical chair and he put me in BSP. I am not 100% sure that I had the cats on there though. The Technosquare Re-Flash is not a chip. They simply just tune your stock ECU.

amolaver

iTrader: (1)

Like I said - I'm no authority by any means (hopefully someone else will chime in), but ECU reflash, is, in essence 'chipping it'. While you aren't physically swapping the chip, you are manipulating the software the engine management relies on - its really the same thing. I can't remember re: the cats - as they do wear out over time, i'm not sure if you're required to run OEM ones (I think you are) or if they allow high flow versions.

Anyway - like I said, I'm not really the right person to ask. As far as tire pressures go, get yourself a harbor freight infrared pyrometer, and make three measurements (left/middle/right) across each tire immediately after a hot run. Middle is hotter than either edge? drop pressure. Both edges higher than middle? Up pressure. Outside (left on left side, right on right side of car) higher than inside, need more negative camber.

How is the car handling now? Pushing or oversteer? Given the stagger and that both bars are set to medium, I'm guessing a fair amount of push. I'd first set the rear bar to full stiff. If its still pushing, set the front to full soft. I think (and the experts can smack me around after the fact) that most guys running autox are running 275's all around, which would alleviate your need to manipulate the bars, or at least let you use them for fine tuning instead of the likely gross understeer you have now.

What pressures are you running now?

ahm

SinCity350Z

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the advice. I am running mid 40psi all the way around, but I haven't played with it much. I went with the statggered tires because the OEM track wheels are staggered from the factory. I don't know how well a 275 will fit on an 8" wide rim. The car does push a little out of corners so I will try setting the rear sway to full stiff.

del105

iTrader: (4)

Your car is legal for BSP you will need to take the EDFC controller out when running I'm pretty positive that is not legal.

I've only put the tiniest bit of thought into building an bsp 350z mostly while trying to fall asleep, but this is roughly where I would start.

starting with track model for the brembos.

Engine/drivetrain:
individual throttle bodies 1800.00
UD pulleys 150
Header 600
cat delete 200
TI ypipe/straight pipe cat back 1000.00
ECU ? 1000+
Light weight flywheel 500
clutch 300
Mechanical differential 1000
remove AC
tiny battery 100

Suspension:
Advance design double adjustable coilovers or siimilar 2000
1000 lbs springs in the back
700 lbs in the front
Giant front swaybar 200
tiny rear swaybar or no rear swaybar
replace every bushing with hard nylon bushings. 50
Adjustable upper a arm in front for camber 200
toe and camber arms in rear. 200


Wheels/ brakes:
18x 10 25mm offset ?? all around 2000
285/30/18 kumho 710's 1000
steel brake lines
carbo tech panther plus 250
rain wheels 17x8 25mm offset 245/40/17 hoosier wet radials 3000

other crap for weight and fitment:
roll rear fenders
replace steering wheel 100
replace seats 700
remove radio/ speakers
cool titanium shift **** 50

$ 13450.00 to start.

I think this would be a good start toward a bsp car. Probably a bunch of crap I forgot too. Still doubt it would be competetive, but I think it would be super fun to drive. There is a bunch more stuff you can do but I'd have no idea where to go until I did all this stuff.

PedalFaster

You can look this up yourself now that the Solo rule book has been posted online: http://scca.com/_filelibrary/File/2005SoloRules.pdf

Steve

amolaver

iTrader: (1)

Guess I should shut my trap on this thread Sorry for the misinformation!

ahm

SinCity350Z

iTrader: (19)

del105 - Thanks for the info, you definately know your AutoX. I, however, am not that big into autoX where I want to build a BSP Specific car. I just simply want to know how to tune the stuff I already have. By the way, the Technosquare ECU reflash is $575, so that will shave $425 off of your BSP dream car.

PedalFaster - I am not concerned with rules so much, just tuning.