how to put new hub bolts in?
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 242
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From: Puyallup, Washington
I imagine, you mean a stud, where it has snapped off in the lug nut, leaving the balance of the stud solidly in the hub... I use my trusty 5 lb. mallet... you need to be swinging some weight to convince the stud to back out of the hub... it usually takes three good hits.
Be careful using non-Nissan (or Nismo) replacement studs, I wouldn't recommend using anything else following my misfortunes. I'm speaking from experience. First time: $240 in towing, 2nd time: $100 in various cutting devices.
BC
Be careful using non-Nissan (or Nismo) replacement studs, I wouldn't recommend using anything else following my misfortunes. I'm speaking from experience. First time: $240 in towing, 2nd time: $100 in various cutting devices.
BC
If you're replacing a rear, don't forget to release the e-brake to remove the rotor.
To get a new stud in you will need an impact wrench and 1/2 washer and an nut you are willing to ruin. You use these to tighten/press the new stud into the fitting.
BA cutler what happened when you used non-nissan lugs? I've been using H&R's. Is there something I need to watch out for?
To get a new stud in you will need an impact wrench and 1/2 washer and an nut you are willing to ruin. You use these to tighten/press the new stud into the fitting.
BA cutler what happened when you used non-nissan lugs? I've been using H&R's. Is there something I need to watch out for?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
From: Puyallup, Washington
daveh,
I used a set of H&R studs that shipped with my 5mm H&R spacers. I read the warning note about ensuring a proper spline match prior to install. Trying to save a few bucks,
I installed their studs even though there was a slight difference in how much "bite" the hub would have using the H&Rs v. the stock studs. You'll notice, the splines on the H&R studs begin immediately after the head of the stud... the Nissan/Nismo studs have a non-splined area and then the splines begin. As is turns out, the studs that came with my H&R spacers only provided about 50% of the bite into the hub as the Nissan/Nismo studs.
While I torqued the lugs prior to running (at an A/X), I didn't torque them between runs. During my last run, I heard a clacking noise from the rear. I thought to myself "hmmm, that dif must be working real hard. It sounds like my old GM difs, running Red Line. Cool." So as I'm crusing back to back parking spot, having won my first regional SCCA event in the Z, I'm pretty happy... but notice the clacking is still happening. I lifted the car and started to swap out wheels. Some of the lugs on the back wheels will not come loose... the studs are just spinning in the hub. One backs out far enough to effectively "lock" the wheel in place and it will not move. Flat bed is called in, a long tow truck ride home to the tune of $240.
But did I learn my lesson? Oh, but of course NOT. Thinking the fronts are just fine, I'll just replace the rears. The following season, 2005, I go to an event and try to remove one of the front wheels. The stud spins in the hub. "Beautiful" I say to myself, turn down a generous offer from my main competition to drive his Z (drivesolo), and head back home.
I tried every trick in the book to get that wheel off, no luck. Took the car to several places, their only answer is, torque on the wheel until the stud snaps... risking other things snapping as well. Then I took the Z to a well respected race prep shop. They said (amongst their laughter), leave it with us all day and we'll find a way.
I ended up doing something I didn't really want to do, but in the end turned out being rather easy and the only parts to be lost were one of my spacers and of course, the stud. Fortunately for me, I had left the spacers on with my street wheels. I finally found a Rotozip cutting wheel, added an extender to the mandrel, which allow me to stick the cutting wheel between the arms of my street wheel and cut through the spacer and stud. Done in minutes.
I now have Nismo studs, torque between runs and don't skimp on little things... it took awhile, but the lesson has been firmly implanted in my bull headed brain.
BC
I used a set of H&R studs that shipped with my 5mm H&R spacers. I read the warning note about ensuring a proper spline match prior to install. Trying to save a few bucks,
I installed their studs even though there was a slight difference in how much "bite" the hub would have using the H&Rs v. the stock studs. You'll notice, the splines on the H&R studs begin immediately after the head of the stud... the Nissan/Nismo studs have a non-splined area and then the splines begin. As is turns out, the studs that came with my H&R spacers only provided about 50% of the bite into the hub as the Nissan/Nismo studs.While I torqued the lugs prior to running (at an A/X), I didn't torque them between runs. During my last run, I heard a clacking noise from the rear. I thought to myself "hmmm, that dif must be working real hard. It sounds like my old GM difs, running Red Line. Cool." So as I'm crusing back to back parking spot, having won my first regional SCCA event in the Z, I'm pretty happy... but notice the clacking is still happening. I lifted the car and started to swap out wheels. Some of the lugs on the back wheels will not come loose... the studs are just spinning in the hub. One backs out far enough to effectively "lock" the wheel in place and it will not move. Flat bed is called in, a long tow truck ride home to the tune of $240.
But did I learn my lesson? Oh, but of course NOT. Thinking the fronts are just fine, I'll just replace the rears. The following season, 2005, I go to an event and try to remove one of the front wheels. The stud spins in the hub. "Beautiful" I say to myself, turn down a generous offer from my main competition to drive his Z (drivesolo), and head back home.
I tried every trick in the book to get that wheel off, no luck. Took the car to several places, their only answer is, torque on the wheel until the stud snaps... risking other things snapping as well. Then I took the Z to a well respected race prep shop. They said (amongst their laughter), leave it with us all day and we'll find a way.
I ended up doing something I didn't really want to do, but in the end turned out being rather easy and the only parts to be lost were one of my spacers and of course, the stud. Fortunately for me, I had left the spacers on with my street wheels. I finally found a Rotozip cutting wheel, added an extender to the mandrel, which allow me to stick the cutting wheel between the arms of my street wheel and cut through the spacer and stud. Done in minutes.
I now have Nismo studs, torque between runs and don't skimp on little things... it took awhile, but the lesson has been firmly implanted in my bull headed brain.
BC
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Thanks for the response. I've got H&R spacers/studs in the front and the eibach's in the rears. I never noticed any difference in the splines and they seemed to fit tightly. I'll have to take a look at them when I get home. I have changed my wheels probably close to 50 times so far without any issues (knocking on wood). I was going to order some nismos for backup. Maybe I'll just replace them all.
